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Old 05-15-2008, 02:42 AM
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Tifosi Tifosi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterlund View Post
Can you post a photo of the cap? I once had a cap that was mis-labeled, and it was a real pain in the butt. There may be more of these out there.
Never trust the cap labeling if it's present as even if it may actually be right, but your dizzy orientation is wrong (someone took it out and put it back in a few degrees or more different, or even 180 out) making a numbered cap useless.

Better to get TDC and all that lined up and mark for yourself where #1 is based on rotor location, then install the plug wires on in firing order going clockwise from there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Sacamano View Post
I JUST replaced an incorrect cap on my '87 last week. Worked well for a few months, and then the miss got worse and worse. Might have been the wrong cap, wrong rotor, or just the wrong combo, but truth is they all look VERY similar. In this case, the rotor tip was just barely hitting the plug contacts, and chipped them all away to nubs. A crooked cap placement wouldn't have damaged all the contacts so evenly.
Look closely at the cap n rotor set that's shoved over the counter at you if you get the stuff from a local parts store as there's a pretty significant (and obviously visible) in the difference of the rotor contact at the end of the arm that sweeps under the cap contacts.

The pre-electronic ignition versions have wat looks like any other sorta narrow contact tab, while the electronic ignition versions have a very broad blade out there due to the ICU controlling timing advance/retard rather than a flyweighted armature. (EI needs the extra blade width to compensate for that lack of movable parts inside the dizzy)
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2008, 09:40 PM
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Vintre Vintre is offline
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Update

Well.....car is running smooth again!

Went back to scratch. Disconnected everything and re installed again. Figured it couldnt hurt.

I noticed that oil vapour recovery hose that runs from the cam cover to the oil vapour recovery cannister was cracked, so I replaced that.

Now the car runs good again. Amen!!!!!

I'm not sure if something was off or if it was the hose.

Do you think that if the hose was cracked, barely hanging on, would cause a rough running engine?

Anyways, I'm back on the road again! Thanks to everyone for their help. This is a great community to be a part of!
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Last edited by Vintre; 05-18-2008 at 05:24 AM.
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Old 05-18-2008, 03:10 AM
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Tifosi Tifosi is offline
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Depends on how bad the crack actually was.

If it was well and truly leaking, (as in 'like a sieve'), then it would allow outside air to get into the seperator where it would be picked up in the vac hose that goes to the plenum and create a minor false air leak, though not as drastic as one that derived from any of the 'dry' air hoses, (pressure regulator line, charcoal canister line, vac advance line, or any of the hoses and tubes up on top of the engine).

It's also viable that the leak was only bad enough to cause an imbalance in base pressure, which in turn would cause a bit of odd running, though likely that would be relegated to the idle and just off idle RPM ranges. Break over 2500-3000 RPM and it would seem to 'get better' persay.

Query: after all that, you do have the 3 vacuum lines on the frotn end of the plenum plugged onto thier correct nipples don't you?

They are oraficed and positioned specifically for what purpose they serve.

Topmost one which has the smallest hole goes to pressure regulator
Middle is for the charcoal canister and has the biggest hole
Bottom is for the seperator and has the same size hole as the one at the back of the plenum that's used for the vac advance line


To give yourself a comparative idea of what the crack in that hose could have been doing now that things seem OK, warm up the engine then remove the oil fill cap and note how the idle speed and engine pitch changes.
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Last edited by Tifosi; 05-18-2008 at 03:12 AM.
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