Viscosity debate....

[slyalfa]

I think the oil that is best for the bottom might not be the best for the top?
my 3l V6 liked the 0-40 moble1 the best. but after I redid it the top would knock with the S cams (the oil jets might have somthing to do with it too) so I went to the 15W50 moble 1 and it seems to like that a lot.

I am runing the 15-40 sync shell truck oil but it seem to not like that so much as it started to burn oil so I will be going back to the moble 15w50.

but the way I see it is, if you have a working gage(rare in a alfa) you should run as thin as you can and keep the oil PSI. if you go to thick the flow will be down and all the oil will be going in to the bypass valve. runing 20W50 dino I runed the bottom of my old v6 it was still runing but knocking at idle. On tear down the the shells where wiped out. this is what happens with too thick and cold runing. it is the same as runing with no oil.

you want flow in the bearings not the bypass. but you also need it keep up the PSI when HOT.
the syn seems to work welll with this. but the dyno would peg at cold and run low hot.

I drive my car every day to work and I put on the miles. so I need it to work and run when cold or when hot.


that is my $0.02

[Duke58]

Holy Cow Batman! 15-40 sync shell truck oil

run as thin as you can and keep the oil PSI

On tear down the shells were wiped out

this is what happens with too thick and cold runing

I have a headache.

[slyalfa]

well what one motor likes might need to be a bit different on a different motor.
a worn motor can have extra space in bearings and need thicker oil then the same motor with tight bearings. when I changed my v6 the newer one has hotter cams that seem to like a bit thicker oil. and the block also added a oil jet for each piston. the gearing was also changed to run the oil pump a bit faster. all this was after x S/N or x year. but all in all the new motor seems to need a bit thicker oil then the old one did even with worn out bearings.
I think the jets use up a lot of the oil.

I think it is best to look at the oil gauge (a working one) and change the oil untill the reading are good. you just what the right PSI when hot. if it is peged that is not good. anytime max PSI is hit the valve will open and the oil will bypass. This is not good as the oil is not flowing where it is needed. what I noticed with the dino stuff was too low hot and way way to high cold.
now if I let it sit and idle until the PSI drops that would help but I like to get going sometime in my lifetime. and the long warmup is not to good for the cat.

but you can also tell by the sound the smell etc when the oil seems right or seems wrong.
the gauge can also tell when the oil needs to be changed. when the PSI starts to get too low when goin down the freeway time to change it.

and mycar seem to like the moble 1 but is cost a lot. but I get a stable PSI reading almost right away and it stays there even when very very hot. untill it needs a change then it starts to drop off when hot.

by stable is say when runing say down the freeway I get very close to the same reading each time and temp(from just warm to normal)

but this does need a working gauge say a aftermarket one as the alfa gauge will be all over the place with temp, moon phase etc.

[chasgtv6]

I also use Castrol 20/50 but in addition I add 1 bottle of GM cam and lifter pre-lube
part # 12345501 at each oil change. Refer to Hot Rod Magazine article on oils,
June 2006.

[GV27]

This probably doesn't help much but I personally think all the M1 "High Mileage", "Extended", etc. is just a big load of marketing BS. My guess is that it's all basically the same good stuff.

Anybody think I should immediately change out the M1 10w-40 I just put in my Spider? I had a major brain fart and for some reason bought a whole bunch of it for both the Alfa and my truck and had 6.5 quarts in before it suddenly dawned on me that I've always used 15w-50. I think maybe I bought it thin in the middle of the winter then my brain latched on to it. I dunno. I did add some BG MOA to it though......

Chris

[lowmileage]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GV27 This probably doesn't help much but I personally think all the M1 "High Mileage", "Extended", etc. is just a big load of marketing BS. My guess is that it's all basically the same good stuff. Anybody think I should immediately change out the M1 10w-40 I just put in my Spider? I had a major brain fart and for some reason bought a whole bunch of it for both the Alfa and my truck and had 6.5 quarts in before it suddenly dawned on me that I've always used 15w-50. I think maybe I bought it thin in the middle of the winter then my brain latched on to it. I dunno. I did add some BG MOA to it though...... Chris

[ddouglas77]

I've used a mix of 50/50 15W50 and 10W40 Mobil 1. But then again, my engine locked up (not from the type of oil but from the lack of it).

[sgtpeper]

Im a major fan of 20w50 Amsoil racing oil. My mechanic in Chicago used it on his race car and when they would break the engine down after a race there was very little damage internally vs other oils. This was on a built duetto for the record!

I use amsoil in every car Ive own and cant say enough good things about it - other than its damn pricey!

My STi has amsoil in it and doenst burn a drop, with mobil 1 it did burn a bit of oil. Amsoil for the win

Jeff

[ddouglas77]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sgtpeper My STi has amsoil in it and doenst burn a drop, with mobil 1 it did burn a bit of oil. Amsoil for the win Jeff

[lowmileage]

M1 is factory fill (and has been for a while) in the Corvette. It can't be too shabby IMO. I've never been able to buy into that Amsoil stuff.

[papajam]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddouglas77 ...anything is better than conventional oil.

[ddouglas77]

Quote:

Originally Posted by papajam Whew!! What a relief! I now have the go a head to use the CaCl here at the plant at a cost of mere pennies per pound.

[Joe Papa Sr]

Hey!! DD and Jim!! Pay attention, as it is CaCl2....not CaCl. (just joshin, you know)

The Chemistry Police on patrol.........hehe

[Joe Papa Sr]

Seriously, though, Ive heard from a good source, most engine wear occurs at start up. So, with engine cold, oil must be as thin as possible to be pumped through engine as fast as possible, to do its job, which is lubricate. Thick oil, as in the 20w50, etc, vs say, 10-40, flows SLOWER at startup than is desirable. In fact, ideally, cars should be equipped NOT with oil pressure meters, but oil FLOW meters. But why dont our cars have them? Cuz they cost TOO much!! Pressure sensors are way cheaper to equip a car with. better than nothing, is what they really should be referred to.

Startup with thicker oil is NOT better for your engine than otherwise with thinner oil........every morning you start up. Remember this tomorrow when you start your cold (even in summer) engine............

[ddouglas77]

Quote:

Originally Posted by lowmileage M1 is factory fill (and has been for a while) in the Corvette.