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Old 11-04-2004, 01:46 PM
Duke58 Duke58 is offline
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These cars give more bang for the money than most cars out there: they handle great, stop great, run fast and deep. You should learn or know how to work on them, unless you have acess to/money to pay someone to work on it for you.

My 1986 Spider/Graduate was purchased last May for $3000. It had 104K miles, new top, was garage kept, and no rust at all because this is the high desert here. I've had about 15 cars in my life, this one is my all-time favorite, with my first car being second only because it was the first car I ever owned. This little Italian car has sex-appeal and passion. What other almost 20 year old car offers a hemi head, cast header, 4 wheel disc brakes, convertible styling, fuel injection, quick, agile handling like a Alfa Romeo?

The Alfa's are relatively easy to find parts for, so I would also look for one that has a rust free body. Make sure to check all the electricals very carefully, as the electricals are the weakness of these cars. But if you want a ugly car with bad electrical, buy yourself an MG.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2004, 10:22 AM
NYLK NYLK is offline
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As promised, attached photos of the 1986 Graduate I'm thinking about buying. First some vehicle history. One owner car, 95K miles, drives well, no leaks, no signs of a blown head gasket, radio inop, fairly new rubber, seats need re-covering, no external noise, a/c works, canvas top in good shape, all chrome worn/pitted. Rust spots (as per pics). No rust on floorboards, spare tire compt, wheel wells, or engine compt. Vehicle needs paint job. He's asking $3,200.
I'm seeking your advice on whether you guys think the car is worth the money's he's asking and whether the rust spots are going to break me $ wise. I'm looking to put about $2000 into the paint/seats/chrome/stereo etc.
This will be a daily driver for me, not show car, but something I'm going to be proud to be seen in.
Thanks, again. Dave


Pic #1 Driver's door lower sill plate
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Last edited by NYLK; 11-11-2004 at 10:34 AM.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2004, 10:23 AM
NYLK NYLK is offline
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#2 Passenger door lower sill plate
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2004, 10:25 AM
NYLK NYLK is offline
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#3 passenger rear deck panel
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2004, 10:26 AM
NYLK NYLK is offline
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#4 Engine Compt.
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Old 11-11-2004, 10:27 AM
NYLK NYLK is offline
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#5 base of windshield (fresh air intake)
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2004, 10:28 AM
NYLK NYLK is offline
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#6 Overall view Right Rear
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2004, 10:29 AM
NYLK NYLK is offline
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#7 Overall View Left Rear
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2004, 10:30 AM
NYLK NYLK is offline
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#8 Front View
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2004, 10:49 AM
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Roadtrip Roadtrip is offline
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I don't know where you live Dave, but I don't think $2k on paint, plus the other items you want to do is going to be enough. I can't see if the rockers are rust-involved, but if they are, it's for certain $2k won't get you what you want. You also need to be prepared for what they find after they start delving into the rust repair.

You may want to take the car down to a bodyshop and see what the bodywork and lower-end respray would cost in your area. As I've said many times on this BB, don't buy a car that needs bodywork and paint. Spend more and buy one with a good body and paint.

Looks like a pretty straight car, though.
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Old 11-11-2004, 01:13 PM
Touringspider Touringspider is offline
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I agree with John. Do not underestimate what paint and bodywork will cost you. As has been discussed in many threads on the bb, you can save some money by doing some of the prep work yourself. However, many shops will not finish someone else's work. Materials alone are quite expensive. Commercial shops can obviously get stuff cheaper, but as an example, a gallon of catalyzed filler primer is over $200, and a gallon of red paint of reasonable quality is at least that or more. Remember that red paint is the most expensive color to buy due to the pigments used.

I can't tell from the photos what the state of the interior is, but you mention spending money on the seats. As an example the IAP catalog lists the cheapest reproduction vinyl seat upholstery kit for a Grad at about $500. Then you have to have someone install it (if you can't do it yourself). If the underlying foam is bad, add some more dollars.

The car may be a decent buy if it checks out mechanically, and the price is reasonable enough. Just be sure to go in with your eyes wide open regarding your expectations of what you want to improve on it versus the cost. Everything is easily available for these cars, which is nice. As was suggested, make some calls and check out the prices of the stuff you think needs replacing on some of the on-line Alfa supplier catalogs (see the "Supplier" sticky here on the bb).

Whether you decide on this car or look for another one, welcome in advance to the world of Alfa ownership. You won't find a nicer set of owners anywhere.

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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2004, 01:19 PM
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RT is right. You'll never get paint and fix this and that for 2K. Looks like the radiator needs some work. If it needs to be cored, there goes $300 of your $2000 budget. It's a Virginia car, but it doesn't look like it spent much time outside in the salt.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2004, 01:32 PM
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I am no expert on the newer cars, and the brake fluid reservoir on my Spider Junior is totally different, but is the brake fluid in that car "BLACK"? If that fluid really is the color of old oil instead of clear or (at least) honey-colored, make sure you have the brake system checked by a mechanic (or do it yourself).
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