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Old 10-19-2004, 05:59 PM
GeneW GeneW is offline
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Timing Questions

I'm getting to know my '88 Spider pretty well now and it's running pretty good. I've got a few questions now that I've explored, adjusted and tinkered with much of the car.
1. How do I get my distributor to line up properly? According to the shop manual the slot that it fits into is in the wrong position when the engine is at TDC. Also the plug wires are in the wrong places. Do I need to "Time" the oil pump? How?
2. There is no reference mark on the distributor body. Can I time it with a light when #1 is corrected? Measurement as to where the mark should be?
3. Is it normal to feel the timing advance points dramatically or is it a sign of a timing issue?
4. Can I replace the Cam bearing cap studs with allen bolts? Size?

I'm having almost as much fun working on this car as driving it. (daily)
Each thing I do seems to make a difference and it doesn't feel like the same car I bought a few months ago for $500.00.
I can't wait to start on the suspension.
Gene
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Old 10-21-2004, 05:43 PM
GeneW GeneW is offline
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C'mon guys I really need to know about setting the base timing without a reference mark and with the dist. out of place. Anyone?
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Old 10-21-2004, 07:04 PM
gotglasses gotglasses is offline
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The timing is not adjustable - you merely align the distributor to the scribed line. The timing is generated by the computer off the crank sensors.
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Old 10-21-2004, 07:24 PM
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Roadtrip Roadtrip is offline
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Gene - I'm not experienced with the L-Jet systems, but it sound to me like the No. 1 piston is not at TDC on the beginning of the Power Stroke. Look down through the spark plug hole and make sure that when the piston comes up to TDC that the valves are closed (compression stroke). Another way to check is to look at the forward most lobes on the cams. They should be pointed directly outwards, if the piston is TDC on Power Stroke. Then line up the rotor with the index mark on the distributor body.
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Old 10-21-2004, 08:36 PM
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John M John M is offline
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Hey Gene:

Welcome to the Alfabb:

I am trying to think back on that distributor. Seems like even though you cannot advance the timing/retard the timing like you can on earlier Alfas with points ignitions (i.e. no slot in the body to rotate the body), you might be able to rotate the orientation of the body of the distributor/and cap by loosening the "c" clap that secures the body of the distributor to the shaft. At least you can do this on the earlier ones. Not sure on that bosch model. And as someone else noted......its not supposed to be adjustable.

To static set the timing,
1. get the crank pulley mark lined up with the pointer from the water pump, while setting #1 piston at TDC,
2. put cams on their marks with the cam journal caps with the lobes pointed outboard @ #1 intake and exhaust valves,

***speculation follows***

3. loosen "c" clamp bolt on distributor body/shaft
4. drop your distributor in....get the rotor locked in,
5. and align the the rotor with the timing mark on the lip of the top of the distributor body
6. pull the distributor out without changing the orientation of the body vs the shaft/rotor.
7. tighten the 'c' clamp bolt
8. reinstall distributor and secure with mounting bolt

Just a guess on that one, but it works on my 78...and again not sure on a stock bosch unit on a 88.

On the cam journal caps/keepers, I suppose you could use an allen head screw. I personally like using the bolt/nut assembly as I readily have a socket and torque wrench available. Not sure how you would accomplish the torque spec without some special drive bits. If you decide to proceed, just double nut the keeper bolt and back one out and run her down to the local hardware store to match her. I cannot remember what size those studs are. Seems like though they had a torque setting of around 15 ft lbs.

Best Regards,
John M
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Old 10-22-2004, 04:51 AM
GeneW GeneW is offline
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Thanks for the replies I know that it should just be set to the reference mark (scribed line) but there is no mark at all. I've cleaned the dist. body thoroughly (W/O abrasive) and can not find any thing that looks like it should be the mark. There are only two positions that the dist. can go in-180 degrees apart. If I put the wires on the correct way and line up the dist. like the shop manual shows it blows the plenum off. (6 times). The slot that the dist. shaft fits into is at the wrong position in relation to the engine when at TDC. (piston up lobes out crank mark lined up)
The car runs well like this but I want it to be right.
Just did valve shims and it's even quiet now
I cleaned up the threads on the studs and got new nuts,
If it works....
Any ideas on this will be appreciated greatly.
Thanks, Gene
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Old 10-22-2004, 08:18 AM
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You can scribe your own line. After putting the engine on #1 TDC power stroke and with the dist cap on, place a mark on the dist body with a magic marker or similar directly below the #1 sparkplug wire tower. Now pull off the dist cap and see where the rotor is pointing. If the rotor is not pointing directly at the mark, rotate the dist until it is. If the dist will not rotate far enough, pick another sparkplug wire tower, make another mark and try again. Once the rotor and mark line up, install the #1 plug wire in the tower above the mark that lines up with the rotor. Moving clockwise, the next wire in the cap is for cylinder #3, then #4 and finally #2.
If the positions of the sparkplug wires in the cap differs from that in the service manual, this does not mean that engine performance will be affected. The only difference, IMO, is an asthetic one.
If the wires aren't in the same locations as in the book and you want them to be, the only way I know to do this would be to R & R the oilpump and rotate the oilpump shaft.
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Old 10-22-2004, 05:46 PM
GeneW GeneW is offline
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Thanks for the reply. I know it's just looks but I really like this car and am determined to make it as good as I can doing all the work myself.
To me it's worth it just to know that one more thing is exactly like it's supposed to be. I will read over the oil pump stuff in the manual and probably do this next spring as I have clutch and suspension issues to deal with first.
I believe I need to change the throwout bearing and the entire front suspension is worn out. I believe the best way to go is the kit that includes everything except shocks and springs.
Thanks Gene
P.S. Made my own mark like you described-I feel better about it now
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Old 10-22-2004, 06:24 PM
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Good show, Gene!

And I like your determination to keep the car original!
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