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Old 09-19-2004, 06:10 PM
Romeo85 Romeo85 is offline
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Camshaft help

Ok so we got our new rebuilt head back and on the block. When we picked it up the shop said he lined up the cams with the marks on the head. We are not sure if its correct and right now the pistons are all sitting equal in the block until we figure out if it is correct. Also we are not sure if they are stock cams, maybe someone else could help us figure that out too. Also we cant figure out how to get the timing chain adjuster/guide in far enough to allow the chain to go around it. Any suggestions?

Pics of the new head and the marks that line up:

Exhaust cam

Intake Cam
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Old 09-20-2004, 01:20 AM
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BigSwede BigSwede is offline
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Lined up with the marks at TDC is correct, and the lobes should be pointing outwards on cyl 1 (like on the pic). Because there's also marks on the cams on the other side for some reason...

You should be able to loosen the screw and push the tensioner back into it's seat, maybe you need some kind of leverage.
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Old 09-20-2004, 02:46 AM
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What are the numbers stamped on the cam?
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Old 09-20-2004, 07:54 AM
Romeo85 Romeo85 is offline
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So then that looks correct for TDC??

I will get the numbers, I know the numbers on the cam are different then those on are other Alfa engine which is a '86 and not an '85
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Old 09-20-2004, 08:00 AM
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TDC for cyl 1 yes. Note that the distributor needs to point at cyl 1 too...
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Old 09-20-2004, 03:42 PM
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Question

I have reread your first post several times, and I must be missing something, you have the head installed, judging by the picture, the camshafts are close to setup at TDC, just a matter of finding out which cams and what the timing is, BUT, this is were I must be missing something, the pistons are all equal, meaning they are halfway thru that stroke, and not #1 at tdc, if so do you intend to remove the camshafts before rotating the crank to bring the #1 cyl to TDC
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Old 09-20-2004, 04:25 PM
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The cam tensioner wedge fell off the bolt. That is why it won't retract! Tuck a cloth into the engine under the tensioner to catch little parts that you eally don't want to drop into the engine! Very carfully remove the tensioner and spring. With a magnet, go fishing in the hole for the wedge (if it didn't come out with the spring). The tensioner bolt needs to be positioned so that only the little post sticks into the tensioner bore. Put some thick grease on the post and surrounding area. Carefully place the wedge on the post, and try to make sure it is correctly lined up. Re-insert the tensioner and spring. If you did it right, the tensioner will slide all the way back into the bore. Tighten the bolt a little, and you are good to reattach the chain.
I am a little nervous about your # 1 piston not being at TDC. You need to follow some of the above advice for getting it ther before you attach the chain to the cams...
Good luck,
MikeM
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Old 09-20-2004, 04:48 PM
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crank pulley mark

To put #1 cylinder at TDC, find the scribe line on the crankshaft pulley and line it up with the small pointer attached to the waterpump. It may be hard to find if it's dirty down there. To turn the pulley you can use a socket on the pulley nut or put the gearbox in 5th gear and roll the car forward. Don't turn the engine backwards if you miss the mark, go around again. Another method is inserting a thin object such as a brass punch into #1 spark plug hole and rotate the engine until it stops rising.

I'm not sure if you want to do any of this without either loosing the camshafts or removing the head again. It's possible you may contact a valve with a piston.

Here's a picture of the scribe mark and pointer. Hope it helps!
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Old 09-20-2004, 05:56 PM
Romeo85 Romeo85 is offline
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I wasnt planning on removing the head to get the #1 piston to TDC. I figured I could use the pully and the pointer on the waterpump along with something in the #1 spark plug hole. Im going to do it very carefully so as not to bend a valve, trust me I dont want to wreck the new head cause that would mean $300 down the drain.

Ill get back on the cam specs when I get a chance to look at them. I believe they arent stock because of the way the car used to drive. It hated to be under 3000rpms and I had to keep it in low gears otherwise the car would hesitate in higher gears and low RPMS.
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Old 09-21-2004, 02:44 AM
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Hi all.

I´m not sure, but I think that is impossible to get the TDC for the cylinder 1 without removing the camshafts.

To look the TDC, I Bought this dial gauge on eBay and it is very, very accurate.
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Old 09-21-2004, 03:17 AM
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G'Day ???

Remove the cams.
Rotate the engine until No. 1 is at the top and the crank pulley timing mark lines up and the distributor is pointing to No. 1 plug lead.
Reinstall the cams (don't over torque).

See this thread re tensioner chain tensioner again

DO poke rags down around the chain to stop bits falling in, failing to do this can lead to a really sick feeling (ask me how I know).
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Old 09-21-2004, 06:55 AM
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Since the cams are already timed to TDC, there's no need to remove them to turn the engine as this is the normal position for the valves when the pistons in cyls #1 & #4 are at TDC. Simply turn the engine to line up the crank timing marks and ensure that the distributor rotor is pointing to the #1 sparkplug wire in the dist cap.
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Old 09-21-2004, 07:04 AM
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Unless, of course, when the #1 piston comes up to TDC, the rotor is pointing to the #4 wire in the cap. If this is the case, you can turn the crank 90 or degrees to lower pistons 1 & 4 and then turn the cams 180 degrees. Then put the crank back to TDC and hook everything up.
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Old 09-22-2004, 01:53 PM
Romeo85 Romeo85 is offline
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The numbers on the cam are OMG 4H
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Old 09-22-2004, 02:49 PM
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lol!

The Oh My God grind.
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