Cold start solenoid

[Rosenmöller]

Hello,
I do have naggin warm start problems, so I decided to install a switch ( Sorry Wes) to cut the solenoid of when the engine is warm. It's quiet a huzzle to always go under the hood to take the cable of. I do know what is causing my problems: A weak TA and a worn out Injectionpump. I'm working on this but in the meantime I drive my car as it is.
The wiring diagram shows that the cable from the starter to the solenoid should be 2,5 mm² in my car it is only 1 mm² and working perfect. I do know that the solenoid needs a lot of Voltage so I decided to take a 4 mm² cable to the switch and back. The only think I haven't figured out so far is what sort of switch. The switch should have the parameters of the cold start solenoid. I don't have these parameters. Any suggestions?
Thank you
Bernhard

[Roadtrip]

Bernhard -
Considering that the TA is somewhat new, you should probably remove it from the car and test it in a pot of heating water and check the extension is to spec. If it is weak, then it's not allowing the engine to go to normal running mixture. To compound the problem, when the TA is enriching the mixture, it allows the CSS to richen the mixture even more (sensing a cold engine). When the engine is hot, and the TA extended normally, the CSS enriches very little for start.

As a temporary measure until you can bench test the TA and/or install the Sure-Start I sent you, I'd recommend that you just disconnect the CSS altogether and tape over the feed wire so it doesn't short anything out. It may have to crank the engine a little more to start it from cold, but my experience is that the difference is not significant.

Also, if you're having problems with your TA and you can't get a replacement right away, you can always just install a dummy TA in the injection pump and run with that. Be sure to secure the bottom end of the TA to something so it doesn't flex around and break. Again, cold starting may be a little more difficult, but in temperate climates, the difference isn't that much, from my experience.

[gprocket]

For what it's worth, I wired my CSS to the dash light switch. I didn't want to add holes and since the dashlights are tied into the headlights (only work when the headlights are on) I figured this is was an unused switch - for me anyway. (BTW, this is a '69 spider.)

IMHO: Since the current draw for the CSS is only for a few seconds during cranking I don't see this switch as big a problem as Wes makes it out to be. I agree that fixing the root cause (bad TA and worn SPICA for me as well) is the best solution but I had the nickel's worth of wire handier then the grand needed to rebuild/replace the worn parts.

Ironically, I didn't realize that the switch was a solution to warm start flooding until I read Wes's book. I had the technique for a warm start but if my wife took the car I would invariably get the call... Not no more!


- Rich D.