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Old 03-31-2008, 01:05 AM
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Did you take the pressure plate and clutch disc out?

If so, the disc splines and pilot bushing may be mis-aligned if you didn't use a alignment tool to set it and will give you fits until it's rectified.

If you didn't take those items off, then you've likely just got to fiddle the trans around a bit to get it to line up. Make sure it's in neutral also.

It does have to be pretty straight to slip in as the pilot bush is a relatively presice fit on the trans shaft so any off angle will prevent it going in.

Once everything is lined up, it'll go just about completely in/on.
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Last edited by Tifosi; 03-31-2008 at 01:07 AM.
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Old 03-31-2008, 01:48 AM
Oski_Bear Oski_Bear is offline
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I replaced both the pressure plate and disc. I tightened the 6 bolts with the alignment tool in place. Pretty neat little mock splined shaft =)
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Old 03-31-2008, 01:50 AM
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To reinstall, make sure your engine is tilted back. Lay down and put the trans on your stomack and crawl under your car. Time to do some bench pressing. It is not horribly hard, but you'll get there. Another option would use a motorcycle jack to cradle the trans for all of this, just remember the tail end of the trans is pointing down to better match the tilt of the engine.
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Old 03-31-2008, 06:35 AM
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He has one of the transmission jacks so no bench pressing needed. I find that you need to get the angle of the engine tilting backwards just right and the height of the trans jack just right and it should slip right on with barely any pushing. If the angle isn't just right you either need to fiddle with it or do a little up and down motion. A couple times I got lucky and it slid home on the first try, a couple other times it wasn't being cooperative and took some adjustment.

Kevin
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Old 03-31-2008, 06:39 AM
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This is assuming none of the studs were bent during the removal. I had my engine and transmission sitting on the garage floor and still had trouble getting them separated because of bent studs. I would never have been able to get them back together. Before you try to re assemble, make sure the studs are straight!
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Old 03-31-2008, 08:22 AM
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To ensure that the trans input shaft splines engage the clutch disc splines, you can select any gear (I use 4th) and slightly turn the trans output shaft while pushing in the trans. If you can't turn the output shaft, the splines are engaged.
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Old 03-31-2008, 10:24 AM
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Here's another trick; the edges of the splines on the shaft and the clutch plate are machined as sharp edges, and won't slide together unless closely lined up. While this is not supposed to be required, I have used a fine file to just "break" the front edges on the shaft splines, and this eases the insertion into the clutch disc.

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To ensure that the trans input shaft splines engage the clutch disc splines, you can select any gear (I use 4th) and slightly turn the trans output shaft while pushing in the trans. If you can't turn the output shaft, the splines are engaged.
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Old 03-31-2008, 10:41 AM
Oski_Bear Oski_Bear is offline
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Thanks for your replies, everyone. One thing I am still questioning is if I should start threading the bolts in to aid in the alignment and assembly of the transmission.

I'd probably use two bolts, one on the left and one on the right to line it up. As the bolts get tight, the transmission will align properly and be pulled toward the engine. The tranny is grossly at the correct angle and height to go on, but it's not dead center yet.

My only concern is bending the bolts, but all of the weight is going to be supported by the jack...and me. What do you all think? Is this what you have done or are the bolts commonly fastened after the transmission is fully mated?
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Old 03-31-2008, 11:28 AM
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Unless I miss understand, there should be 4 long studs (3"?) on the back of the engine that will aid in alignment long before you get to be able to put in the bolts in, plus from what I remember the transmission input shaft has to have lined up with and engage the the clutch disk before you get even close.
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Old 03-31-2008, 12:05 PM
Oski_Bear Oski_Bear is offline
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I don't remember seeing any studs that are fixed to the engine. There were six bolts that held the bell housing to the engine, and they are all removable. There is one alignment pin on the lower driver side of the engine, but that's all I saw for fixed hardware. Maybe the GTV different?
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Old 03-31-2008, 12:43 PM
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Oski Bear,

Go examine the bell housing. There are two "mounting bosses" (with through holes) on each side that are an inch or so longer than the others. These should fit over four threaded studs protruding from the back of the block. Unless someone has changed something on your engine, these studs are the ones mentioned that can be bent and might be preventing you from sliding the transmission into place.

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Originally Posted by Oski_Bear View Post
I don't remember seeing any studs that are fixed to the engine. There were six bolts that held the bell housing to the engine, and they are all removable. There is one alignment pin on the lower driver side of the engine, but that's all I saw for fixed hardware. Maybe the GTV different?
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Old 03-31-2008, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oski_Bear View Post
Thanks for your replies, everyone. One thing I am still questioning is if I should start threading the bolts in to aid in the alignment and assembly of the transmission.
NO, force must not be used here.

The problem will be engaging the clutch disc splines. All the alignment tool does is ensure the clutch disc is correctly centered, it does not magically line up the gearbox input shaft and the clutch disc splines ... you have to do that.

As Papajim says, put the gearbox in gear, get somebody to help you and get the gearbox lined up and square with the engine/clutch assembly. Rotate gearbox until splines line up and then push together.

Once you have done this once it will be easy the next time ... but do NOT force them together ... having 2 people makes this job mucho easier.

Best
Pete
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Old 04-01-2008, 03:08 AM
Oski_Bear Oski_Bear is offline
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Thank you all for your support and help...again! You have all been really supportive and helpful to me over the past few months.

I was able to get the transmission back on earlier this evening. Turns out the splined shaft was already engaging the clutch, but I couldn't tell because I had the tranny in neutral! So when I spun the driveshaft to check, the flywheel didn't move. Woops.

I wiggled and turned the transmission and it eventually slid into place and then I bolted it down with the 6 bolts. I checked the bell housing and the engine block, there were not studs. There were two small alignment pins pressed into the engine block. One was on the lower driver side and the other was almost at the top center of the block. Strange that mine is different than everyone else's. I wonder what the history is....
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Old 04-01-2008, 04:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oski_Bear View Post
Strange that mine is different than everyone else's. I wonder what the history is....

Best guess would be that a PO or not so adept shop pulled the engine, trans or both and managed to lose or mangle the studs and simply replaced everything with bolts when putting it back together.

T'wouldn't be the first time, but the downside is with bolts there's a fair chance that the threaded holes in the block will get stripped out if they aren't started properly. (then you get the pleasure of having to install helicoils or the like)
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2008, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oski_Bear View Post
Strange that mine is different than everyone else's. I wonder what the history is....
I have alignment pins too, I am the stud.
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