
03-29-2008, 05:45 AM
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To me it looked like the slave cylinder was still attached too. When I did this in the past I just jacked up the front of the engine until it hit the firewall and then the tranny would slide off easily.
To help me so I wouldn't drop it I used one of these transmission jacks from Harbor Freight:
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
This this helped a LOT when trying to get it back on. And now going back to your pictures I see you are using one too, good!
You did remember to disconnect the speedo cable right?
Kevin
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03-29-2008, 02:09 PM
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question
Sorry to butt in, but it looks like I may be doing this job soon, and needed to know if I can do this without a lift. How much space do you need under the car to get the trans out?
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Now 2008 Honda Element
was 2005 Honda Element ,
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03-29-2008, 02:29 PM
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It can be done without a lift.
Jackstands that are extended 4-5 notches on the front jack points then another pair on the axle to get it up in the air level will get you enough room to get under, get it out and drag it out the passenger side and not be too high to put back in with a jack or by bench pressing.
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03-30-2008, 01:28 AM
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Hooray! Thank you all for your help in this thread. I tilted the engine back further and the transmission slid right off. Turns out that the transmission's propeller shaft had already cleared the flywheel, the tranny was just getting stuck on the floor panels above it.
Now to figure out how to remove the transmission mount....banging with a pipe did not work. I am going to take a trip to harbor freight tomorrow to see how much a torch is.
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1988 Spider Graduate
Last edited by Oski_Bear; 03-30-2008 at 02:06 AM.
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03-30-2008, 01:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gadwhite
Sorry to butt in, but it looks like I may be doing this job soon, and needed to know if I can do this without a lift. How much space do you need under the car to get the trans out?
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You can do it without a lift. I went to sears and purchased 'tall' craftsman jackstands and have the car jacked up about 15" with them in the front. I was able to slide the tranny out on the floor on the side of the car.
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03-30-2008, 06:14 AM
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Yeah, no problem without a lift but one of those tranny jacks I referenced earlier in the thread makes things a bit easier. Certainly not required but I found it helped a lot. You should also have an 18-24" socket extension and a u-joint extension, these will allow you to get at the two bolts at the top of the bell housing. They are the trickiest, you'll have to jack up the front of the engine to push the bell housing down then use the extension and u-joint to go up the transmission tunnel to get at them.
Kevin
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87 Verde
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03-30-2008, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kredden
Yeah, no problem without a lift but one of those tranny jacks I referenced earlier in the thread makes things a bit easier. Certainly not required but I found it helped a lot. You should also have an 18-24" socket extension and a u-joint extension, these will allow you to get at the two bolts at the top of the bell housing. They are the trickiest, you'll have to jack up the front of the engine to push the bell housing down then use the extension and u-joint to go up the transmission tunnel to get at them.
Kevin
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This is a great tool to have. So many uses, and so much safer than not having one.
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[COLOR=DarkSlateBlue]John G. Harrill[/COLOR]
1957 Giulietta Spider
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1978 Spider
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Running Again and Code Free:
1994 164LS
Those that have passed on:
1966 Guilia Sprint GT
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1991 Mazda Protege LX
1988 Mazda 323
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03-30-2008, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kredden
the two bolts at the top of the bell housing. They are the trickiest, you'll have to jack up the front of the engine to push the bell housing down then use the extension and u-joint to go up the transmission tunnel to get at them.
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All I did was loosen them from the topside before tilting the engine back....
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03-30-2008, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tifosi
All I did was loosen them from the topside before tilting the engine back....
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I jacked up the rear of the trans to tilt the engine forward and got those buggers from the top side with a ratcheting wrench, no extensions...
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03-30-2008, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddouglas77
I jacked up the rear of the trans to tilt the engine forward and got those buggers from the top side with a ratcheting wrench, no extensions...
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good tip, DD. I had to undo the 4 headers from the cylinder to get to that one on the driv side. Wish there would be a way to avoid this, as I hate to attach back those headers.....
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03-30-2008, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tifosi
All I did was loosen them from the topside before tilting the engine back....
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Tif, do you find it necessary to undo those headers for the bolt on that side??
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03-30-2008, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Papa Sr
good tip, DD. I had to undo the 4 headers from the cylinder to get to that one on the driv side. Wish there would be a way to avoid this, as I hate to attach back those headers.....
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I took my trans from the engine off, 3 times, never had to undo the exhaust, it is all about how you tilt the engine, forward or back, I prefer to let it tilt forward, makes those two top bolts easier to get to.
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03-30-2008, 06:41 PM
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Thanks DD, that is a GOOD tip for next time. BUT, I should add you eventually must tip the engine BACK, for it to clear the floor of car, or bellhousing will hit it. No?
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03-30-2008, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Papa Sr
Tif, do you find it necessary to undo those headers for the bolt on that side??
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Nope.
I left the entire exhaust intact/assembled and simply undid the hangers which in turn allowed the engine to tip back.
The two that are 'top center' can be had from the topside as described, the rest are all accessable from underneath using various extensions. (I don't think I even used a socket U-joint, but I did put a 'wobble' extension to use)
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03-31-2008, 12:43 AM
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...Won't Go ON!
So...maybe I'm missing something. But is there a trick to pulling the tranny back onto the engine?
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