Clutch Master Cyl. Problems

[gadwhite]

Quote:

Originally Posted by vf31rhill "The mystery is how the Master Cyl. rod got so badly bent." + "Teenage sons" = ????? Any possible connection? This sounds like a classic case of "Son, how did you manage to get yourself into such a mess? Robert

[Tifosi]

LOL

I let my daughter take mine out for a hop to the store one evening last summer to nab some beverages and snacks.

She got about a block or so away before we who stayed behind heard the very distinct sound of the engine winding up to redline, a shift, then winding up again.

Apparently someone annoyed her and she sorta gave them a bit of show-n-tell, or at least that was her story when asked about it upon her return

[gadwhite]

Ok started the pivot shaft replacement, following these excellent instructions:
Replacing the Alfa Clutch Pedal Shaft

First removed the bolt holding the master cyl's to the body of the car and the pivot to fork cotter pin, then the pin through the fork and pivot.



Then the nuts from inside the engine compartment on the housing and the nuts from inside the footwell in the car


I had a lot of difficulty getting the pedal housing far enough from the firewall ( Afraid of damage to brake and clutch hard lines), so I actually went from inside the car , upside down, under the dash, to remove the bolt securing the clutch pedal to the shaft . This seems marginally easier, but when I say marginally I mean marginally. You can just see it (11mm BTW) above the steering column




The next problem I am working on, is the pin that goes through the pivot shaft indentation to hold the pivot in position, is stuck, I was unable to tap it out. So for now I am soaking it in PB Blaster, and will whack on it in an hour

[ghnl]

That pin is tapered and will be a tight fit (until it comes loose...). To avoid having it fly off to places unknown when you tap on it and it suddenely come loose, leave the nut on the pin. That also helps avoid damaging the threads on the pin.

[gadwhite]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghnl That pin is tapered and will be a tight fit (until it comes loose...). To avoid having it fly off to places unknown when you tap on it and it suddenely come loose, leave the nut on the pin. That also helps avoid damaging the threads on the pin.

[gadwhite]

Ok finally went back and decided to "follow/read the instructions" (RTFM). Managed to get the pedal housing up where I could work on it and got the pin out, and then the pivot arm.





Here's what the pin looks like. Note it is bevelled, but only on one side.



Here is a comparison of the new pivot arm and the old one, obviously repaired by a lazy PO ( Incorrectly)



OK tomorrow I will try to install the new one. I dont think this is going to be fun, but got to get it done.

[gadwhite]

Well I did it. Used these handy 45 degree long pliers to get the pin behind the clutch pedal attachment point then tightened everything up.



One problem I didnt anticipate is the IAP pivot is a little beefier ( wider) where it goes into the fork. They had also painted it pretty heavily, so I had to file off the paint.



I then measured 134 mm and hooked up the master cyl. and put in a new cotter pin.



Next Im going to bleed the system and see where I am. BTW here is the top of the clutch pedal where it is attached to the pivot.

[ghnl]

Great photos! Thanks for posting them.

[gadwhite]

Well Everything measures up correctly, the system is bled and I have 11-12mm of movement at the slave actuator, but still will not go into gear with the engine running. Looks like something is keeping the trans turning even when in neutral. The only thing I can think off is a damaged throwout bearing , because I have noticed a rattle , with the clutch disengaged (Pedal to the floor). Any comments, suggestions, before I pull the transmission?

[ghnl]

Our transmissions don't easily go into first gear from a stopped position. My understanding is that isn't a synchronizer for the 'up shift' (N -> 1) although there is a synchro for the down shift (2 -> 1).

If you first 'touch' another gear (I usually use 3rd) to slow/stop the spinning gears then move the lever into first does that make any difference? If so that is quite normal.

[gadwhite]

I need to double check this, becuase usually this is how I get into reverse ( go to 1st to stop trans then to R, but right now though at a stop with the engine running I cant get into 1,2,3,or 4th, (a lot of grinding). If I start the car in gear I am able to let out the clutch and take off no problem from 1,2, and reverse.

[ghnl]

And you are sure the actuating rod is adjusted to the correct length?

[gadwhite]

Yep 134 mm, but will triple check, also may have spotted a slight leak. I get a new unit tomorrow, so will replace master anyway, but if the slave is moving the clutch fork the 11-12 mm this should be enough right?

[yvesmontreal]

Quote:

Originally Posted by gadwhite Here is a comparison of the new pivot arm and the old one, obviously repaired by a lazy PO ( Incorrectly)

[gadwhite]

I keep hoping