Waterpump Removal

[qposner]

I searched and found Papajam's note from last summer regarding the two bottom studs. I cannot find the two studs as t appears the crank pulley is in the way. They are the only two I have left to remove the pump. Any idea how to locate them?? Tips are always welcome!
Thanks,
Quinn

[gotglasses]

Clean off all the oil and grease and you should see them along the flat lip on the pump casting. I never had any luck getting the studs off , but the damper does come off easily enough after you lock up the flywheel with a bolt or pin.

[qposner]

Damper? Sorry, I don't know what you are referring to.

Quinn

[gotglasses]

Same as Crank Pulley - There usually is a vibration damper built into these things with a rubber ring and balance weights - it's not just a dumb pulley but is designed to smoothe out the engine vibrations.

[qposner]

OK, so I have to remove that pulley? I assume so since I have finally dislodged the pump from the block and the pulley is in the way.

[papajam]

Use the 'double nut' method to remove the two bottom waterpump studs. With the studs out, the pump will come right off.

[qposner]

Thereby eliminating a need to remove the pulley?

I saw this suggestion on another post, but in order to refresh my recollection, what size bolts can be used to replce the studs?

[qposner]

All right, I tried the double nut, but there just isn't enough room. My manual does not show how to remove the crank pulley. Can someone let me know?

Time to call it a night, I am getting a little frustrated with this thing!

Thanks,
Quinn

[78-AR-SPIDER]

Quinn
The pully can be removed with a simple 2 leg puller after removing the bolt (38 mm) -is it a bolt when it has inside threads? On my 78 I had to remove the spica belt also.

[qposner]

Yikes! A simple water pump is getting more and more complicated. Oh well, another lesson in Alfa mechanics learned! Need I be carful in putting the pulley back on in the same position (I would think so due to the timing marks)? Any timing concerns I should be aware of?

Also, do I need to lock the flywheel? If so, how would I go about doing that?

Thanks for all of your help. If anyone is in Portland, OR, come on over and show me how to do it. I'll buy the pizza and beer! (BTW--I just noticed 78-AR-Spider is)AR

Quinn

[alfa63]

I did this procedure and I don't envy you. I had to take off FOUR studs altogether! You wouldn't be replacing the studs, you would need to double-nut them back into the block. Perhaps this picture might help with locating the two lower nuts and studs. (I had already taken the radiator, alternator, and hoses off before getting adequate room to remove the water pump.)

[papajam]

IMO, removing the crank pulley is far more work than just removing the studs. Ideally, you would need an airgun just to get the pulley bolt (nut) off so now the radiator has to come out to make room. And then, of course, is the Spica timing issue. I know there's not alot of room in there but the bottom studs can be removed. Replacement bolts are 6 x 1.0 x 35mm.

[Sprintman27]

I did mine a couple of weeks ago with radiator & altinator in place.

The brutal way!!

If you are stuck with no way to remove the pulley put a hacksaw through the bottom studs. Remove the pump and replaced the studs. M6 bolts can be used if no studs are to hand

Regards

[qposner]

How much of the stud needs to be removed before the pump will come off? Perhaps if I hacksaw a portion off and remove the pump, I will have enough stud to double nut it out. Thoughts?

[JoeCab]

Quote:

Originally Posted by papajam IMO, removing the crank pulley is far more work than just removing the studs.