
08-18-2004, 09:54 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: UK
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By leaving the studs as long as possible when you make the cut some can be reused.
I would use new fastenings to make sure you get a good bite into the block. Stripping a thread in this unaccessable area would be a nightmare!!
Regards
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08-18-2004, 10:16 AM
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with the Librarian
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: New Jersey USA
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by qposner
How much of the stud needs to be removed before the pump will come off? Perhaps if I hacksaw a portion off and remove the pump, I will have enough stud to double nut it out. Thoughts?
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Not too much, flush with the waterpump might be enough. Or as Sprintman27 suggests, slide the pump off as far as it will go and cut the stud flush with the pump on the inside. This will still leave enough of the stud to grab with a vise-grip or pliers (or better yet, a stud remover!).
Excellent point about the front crank seal by JoeCab. If it is leaking, I guess all this double nutting stuff can go out the window since the pulley needs to come off to replace the crankseal. Good time to change the Spica pump belt too.
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Jim
Series 1 Euro 1750 GTV
Series 2 US 1750 GTV
Series 3 Spider Veloce
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08-18-2004, 10:24 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Gresham, OR
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Only problem is I am doing all of this myself. I don't know how comfortable I am about getting into changing the seal, etc.
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08-18-2004, 07:53 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Gresham, OR
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Success!!!! A hacksaw blade and trusty vice grips to 3 of the studs and we are good to go. Thank you to everyone who weighed in on this and helped out. I owe everyone a beer!
Quinn
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08-18-2004, 08:20 PM
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Congrats!!
Now for the reassembly..... 
__________________
Jim
Series 1 Euro 1750 GTV
Series 2 US 1750 GTV
Series 3 Spider Veloce
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08-18-2004, 09:15 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Gresham, OR
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Small victories. Rome wasn't built in a day...
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08-18-2004, 10:28 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Poquoson, VA
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Small victories are good. Maybe not as good as big ones, but good, nontheless.
Do you have a Spica car? Don't know how old the Spica belt is? Then replace the Spica drive belt. Mine left my daughter high and dry, fortunately only about 4 miles from home, but I had it towed home so I had time to work on it. Those belts eventually go, like timing belts, but not as disastrously.
After the fact, it was trivial to replace. But I had to pull the crank pulley. Had to do that when I replaced the water pump, too, if I recall correctly. I _really_ didn't want to shear the stud or strip the block threads for it, and I don't recall double-nutting it being successful.
YMMV, of course. May your string of small victories grow long....
Michael
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08-18-2004, 11:17 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Gresham, OR
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Yes, it is SPICA. I know exactly how old the belt is as it crapped out on us in Yakima, WA when I was 6 and lived in Belevue, WA (1980). It was replaced then and hasn't been out since. I am going to take the car to Veloce Motors in Portland, OR this fall and have Dan Sommers go through the SPICA> He comes highly recommended and I figured I would let him replace the belt at the same time. I don't want to mess with the SPICA.
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08-19-2004, 12:12 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Poquoson, VA
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I'll only say that I _had_ to do the Spica belt because it had disintegrated and all timing info was lost but the marks. I put the crank where it should be, put the injection pump pulley at the "I for Iniezione" point, put the new belt on, and Lo and Behold! she ran......
I quite understand your position, though. "Why buy trouble?" At work at the particle accelerator, when something isn't working right we instantly look for the list of things which have recently been "improved."
Michael
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