03-05-2008, 03:44 PM
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1969 Roundtail Numero Uno
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 335
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Engine rebuild cosmetics
I'm putting back my engine. Cosmetically challenged, few spots that will not go away . Is it good Idea to glass bead or paint engine and with what paint. Any other ideas
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1969 1750 boat serial 105.62.14800001 Numero UNO
ex 1992 spider can't afford 2
ex 1986 alfa33s
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03-05-2008, 03:48 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 1,581
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I'll start....
No need for paint.
The aluminum is beautiful on it's own.
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[COLOR=DarkSlateBlue]John G. Harrill[/COLOR]
1957 Giulietta Spider
1988 Quadrifoglio
1978 Spider
2002 VW Passat Wagon
Running Again and Code Free:
1994 164LS
Those that have passed on:
1966 Guilia Sprint GT
1964 Guilia Spider
1959 Giulietta Spider
1991 Mazda Protege LX
1988 Mazda 323
1969 Chevy Nova (350)
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03-05-2008, 03:49 PM
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1969 Roundtail Numero Uno
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 335
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I agree but how to get a new look
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1969 1750 boat serial 105.62.14800001 Numero UNO
ex 1992 spider can't afford 2
ex 1986 alfa33s
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03-05-2008, 04:50 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: sacramento,ca
Posts: 2,248
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...you cab get a can of 'wrinkel red' paint and do it that way.. did it to my car. looks nice, but after you paint it be shure to get the raised sections of ' alfa romeo' sanded, it looks cool that way...... like..hum..... ferrari.  |
03-05-2008, 05:17 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: clearwater FL
Posts: 1,396
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I also like to keep car parts original, and original looking. I would NOT put paint on any engine. Alfa's alum look is great, and if anything, just get it washed with industrial strength detergent, and rinse off well with garden hose (or pressure washer). TSP is good, Home Depot sells it, or a paint store/hardware. (trisodium Phosphate. )
Lets keep these cars unmolested.
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03-05-2008, 05:42 PM
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Alfa Poor in KY
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Mount Sterling, KY
Posts: 3,815
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Self etching aluminum wheel cleaner. Not the clear coat safe stuff. Spray it on, let it stay on per instructions, pressure wash, and repeat. Will take it off. Get a wire brush at it as necessary. Keep the cleaner off painted surfaces.
If still not satisfied, then bead blasting will make it look like new or newer. 
Best Regards,
John M
__________________
1978 AR Spider Veloce 2000.....the first and still here
1984 AR Spider Veloce............the second & gone to the parts bin
1992 AR Spider Veloce............the third and still here
1991 AR 164L........................traded on the SS
1965 AR Sprint Speciale..........in boxes.
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03-05-2008, 06:17 PM
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1969 Roundtail Numero Uno
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 335
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John you mean glass beading ? How long it will stay nice ?
When we will see your speciale that still in the box ???????????
Thanks
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1969 1750 boat serial 105.62.14800001 Numero UNO
ex 1992 spider can't afford 2
ex 1986 alfa33s
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03-05-2008, 08:24 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8
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making the alum look good
You might want to try a trick I have used on my Alfa and my BMW morotcycles. You can clean the alum as suggested by the folks on this thread before me but then take some aluminum paint, stir it well and rub it on the alum surface with a rag as if you were putting on shoe polish. Very little is needed and you rub it in well. Try this on a small space and see if you like it. The best part is you can do it again very easily whenever necessary. Catch
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03-05-2008, 08:32 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 81
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Clean Aluminum
For cleaning, here is a procedure I worked out about 20 years ago while trying to clean a V-12 Ferrari engine. I tried everything from cider vinegar to swimming pool acid, and came up with the magic combination of (drum roll) Easy-Off Oven Cleaner and Lime-Away! First of all, don't try to do this in the car because Easy-Off does nasty things to paint. Do the job outside, and plug all open holes in the engine. Spray on a coat of Easy-Off, and let it sit for three minutes only. Then use a hose to spray it off. Don't leave the Easy-Off on for longer than three minutes because it will turn the aluminum a dull gray color. Then spray on a coat of Lime-Away and let it set for three minutes. The reason for this is that the Easy-Off is a base, and the Lime-Away is a weak phosphoric acid, which will neutralize the oven cleaner. Again, hose off the engine. You will need to alternate the two chemicals probably 5 or 6 times to get it really clean. You can use a small screwdriver to help in the corners, and a toothbrush to help on the flats. When everything looks clean, follow up with another coat of Lime-Away, and tons of water. If you don't get all the Easy-Off off, you will end up with a hard yellow residue that's really difficult to remove. For a final touch, use a brass wire brush for a nice shine. This procedure leaves the aluminum looking like it just came out of the foundry. Count on a half day to get the job done, and remember the three minute rule. Three cans of each chemical will do the whole engine/trans. I wish I could sell this procedure and make some money on it. BTW, swimming pool acid instantly turns aluminum black - not what I had in mind. -Steve
Last edited by ferrari328gt; 03-05-2008 at 08:56 PM.
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03-05-2008, 10:04 PM
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Alfa Poor in KY
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Mount Sterling, KY
Posts: 3,815
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 Quote:
Originally Posted by greg
John you mean glass beading ? How long it will stay nice ?
When we will see your speciale that still in the box ???????????
Thanks
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What piece would you like to see Greg? I posted some pictures of the body under Matt's 61 SS thread down in the SS section of the bb. I have recently joined the 750/101 group and am already connecting with several SS owners.
Glass beading will work. But remember you have to get the part clean. Clean....I mean of the blasting media. Never do sealing surfaces. I remember someone putting a picture of a blasted plenum and it looked bright and new. I would suppose it would last quite awhile...like 5 years if you keep the engine clean and leak free.
Now the self etching mag/aluminum cleaner will make the block look like new inside and out. When I built my 2L last summer, I used degreaser and the pressure washer to get any build up off. Then I went at it with the self etching aluminum wheel cleaner and the pressure washer. All my journals for the crank and the liner area all came out like new. The outside was bright silver and just beautiful. The pans and head likewise looked like new. The front cover appears to be out of a different blend of aluminum. It'll come spotless, but gets a gray cast to it.
For the internals, journal caps, nuts, washers, gears, rods, etc....I used the gallon can of gunk where you can submerse the parts in a tray. Then pressure wash them.
I must say...you need a pressure washer to be successful following my suggested procedure. One plus however is that I didn't have to pick up a brush or rag. If you have the motor out on the stand its great. I might be hesitant to go this round in my pretty engine bay. Don't know what that wheel cleaner will do to the painted surfaces.....so keep it off of them!
Best Regards,
John M
__________________
1978 AR Spider Veloce 2000.....the first and still here
1984 AR Spider Veloce............the second & gone to the parts bin
1992 AR Spider Veloce............the third and still here
1991 AR 164L........................traded on the SS
1965 AR Sprint Speciale..........in boxes.
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03-06-2008, 05:46 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: clearwater FL
Posts: 1,396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferrari328gt
For cleaning, here is a procedure I worked out about 20 years ago while trying to clean a V-12 Ferrari engine. I tried everything from cider vinegar to swimming pool acid, and came up with the magic combination of (drum roll) Easy-Off Oven Cleaner and Lime-Away! First of all, don't try to do this in the car because Easy-Off does nasty things to paint. Do the job outside, and plug all open holes in the engine. Spray on a coat of Easy-Off, and let it sit for three minutes only. Then use a hose to spray it off. Don't leave the Easy-Off on for longer than three minutes because it will turn the aluminum a dull gray color. Then spray on a coat of Lime-Away and let it set for three minutes. The reason for this is that the Easy-Off is a base, and the Lime-Away is a weak phosphoric acid, which will neutralize the oven cleaner. Again, hose off the engine. You will need to alternate the two chemicals probably 5 or 6 times to get it really clean. You can use a small screwdriver to help in the corners, and a toothbrush to help on the flats. When everything looks clean, follow up with another coat of Lime-Away, and tons of water. If you don't get all the Easy-Off off, you will end up with a hard yellow residue that's really difficult to remove. For a final touch, use a brass wire brush for a nice shine. This procedure leaves the aluminum looking like it just came out of the foundry. Count on a half day to get the job done, and remember the three minute rule. Three cans of each chemical will do the whole engine/trans. I wish I could sell this procedure and make some money on it. BTW, swimming pool acid instantly turns aluminum black - not what I had in mind. -Steve
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Phos is a better choice(lime away). Easy off is also a v strong base. wash off with TAP water (dont think that using DI/distilled will be better here).
Man, though, I would still kinda opt for the Kosher stuff.....regular engine cleaner in spray form. Much easier to handle, and pretty good results. Also, remember: everytime you wire brush alum , you are exposing fresh alum metal, and it will NOT stay that way for long, as aluminum has to react with oxygen, forming alum oxide (duhhhhhh, chem 101), and again one is back to the dullish look of older, but v stable, alum look........But, Ironically, this alum oxide coating is actually what protects the engine surface from FURTHER oxidation, since it is one of the most densest oxides, blocking out further contact with the air. Buffing the dull stuf all of, just starts the process all over again, producing the dull oxide all over again.
Might as well accept it, people....LOL
Last edited by Joe Papa Sr; 03-06-2008 at 06:51 PM.
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03-06-2008, 06:54 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 81
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Shiny Aluminum
Thanks, Joe. I agree that it's always a good idea to start with the least caustic chemicals, then move on to nastier stuff. My experience, though, is that regular engine cleaner won't take off oil that has been baked on for 20 years. Notice I recommended using a brass wire brush, because it scratches less than a steel one. And I am lucky to live in Arizona, where the humidity is so low that shiny aluminum stays that way for years. Maybe that's why I live here - you can re-use 20 year old muffler clamps (not that I really do)! -Steve
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03-07-2008, 09:11 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 396
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my mechanic has, for twenty five years, painted the block of all alfas he rebuilds. he uses an aluminum enamel (standard hi temp engine enamel) and besides looking great, it allows him or you to clearly see where leaks are generating from. also helps the engine stay clean by making it almost a wipe-off issue. photo attached. i dont believe the aluminum looks that great. it discolors and oxidizes....just like any exposed aluminum.
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/////////////////////////////////////////////////The Sicilian ~ Guido
1990 Spider motronic
1974 Spider 1750
Los Angeles, CA
If your wife has ever had to say, "hey move this thermostatic actuator so i can make dinner"...you might be an alfisti.
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03-07-2008, 09:41 AM
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Darkside Member
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 1,624
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Black engine bay's........... RULE!!! |
03-07-2008, 12:40 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 81
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Details....
Wow, Murray, that looks terrific. Outstanding detail work. -Steve
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