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Old 03-03-2008, 05:18 AM
Tom Swan Tom Swan is offline
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Spark Plug?

I've searched, and I don't see an answer that helps me...keep in mind, I've really never done much work on engines.

A couple weeks ago, I had my Spider out. She's been sitting in the garage for the winter. It started right up! Drove great. Then, a couple hours later, it wouldn't start...cranks strong, but that's it.

I let it go a couple weeks. I tried again yesterday, same thing. Not really knowing what I'm doing, I checked some wire connections. I took off the spark plug wire (cuz I've seen people do that...seemed like the right thing to do) and I noticed that the 2nd one back from the front is pretty corroded looking.

Is that enough reason for it not to start?

Either way, I need to change that plug (and the others while I'm at it). What type/model plugs do I get? Can they be purchased at a regular parts store?

Any help will really be appreciated! You guys are the best!!
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:25 AM
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NGK BP7ES with a gap of .030" is an acceptable plug that can be found at your local parts counters. (you'll have to set the gap yourself with a feeler gauge or plug gap gauge though as they come out of the box with a pretty wide gap)

It might not hurt to consider new plug wires along with a cap and rotor set depending on how long ago that stuff was changed out.
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:29 AM
Tom Swan Tom Swan is offline
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Thanks! Do you think that might be the reason for it not starting?
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:32 AM
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Could be, though there's a lot of other things that could be playing into it also.

It's a good place to start looking however as all that stuff has to be 'right' to begin with whenever chasing other no start issues.
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tifosi View Post
NGK BP7ES with a gap of .030" is an acceptable plug that can be found at your local parts counters. (you'll have to set the gap yourself with a feeler gauge or plug gap gauge though as they come out of the box with a pretty wide gap)

It might not hurt to consider new plug wires along with a cap and rotor set depending on how long ago that stuff was changed out.
If you have an electronic ignition, that gap can be opened to .035".
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:38 AM
Tom Swan Tom Swan is offline
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Remember, you're dealing with a novice...how do I know if I have an electronic ignition? All I can tell you for sure right this second is that it's an '87 Veloce.
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:46 AM
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Check for loose leads at the distributor and coil, with age they easyly gets pulled off.
Always a good idea with new plug, HT leads, cap and rotor, but if any lead is off, will not help starting.
I like B7ES or Lodge 2HL better, they have shorter tips, which is what Alfa and plug makers recoment.
Good luck
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:49 AM
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If it's an 87 it has electronic ignition.
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Old 03-03-2008, 09:22 AM
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I like B7ES or Lodge 2HL better, they have shorter tips, which is what Alfa and plug makers recoment.
Good luck
Erik
Hi Erik,
Those are "colder" plugs, and are really not well suited for a stock U.S. Spider engine as they will foul much easier than the standard spark plugs. It also isn't what Alfa recommended for a stock '87 U.S. Spider. The stock U.S. Spider has 9:1 pistons, mild cams, a restrictive exhaust manifold, and Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection. This is not exactly a "hot" engine and very different from the European set-up with 10:1 pistons, much more aggressive camshafts, non-restrictive manifold, and carburetors. (I do use both the NGK B7ES and the Lodge 2HL on my modified Spider engines.)

Tom,
Do change the plugs first, and see if she starts ok. If so, put some Techron in and take her out for a long drive...

Best regards,
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Old 03-03-2008, 10:45 AM
sgtpeper sgtpeper is offline
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Check to see if you HAVE spark. If not then you could have a blown crank sensor - happened to all our Bosch injected spiders actually. Its a sensor between the engine and trans - trans has to be pulled back to change. Might not be this BUT check to see if you HAVE spark at all!

I do this by pulling the wires loose so they are sitting JUST on top of the plug. Then put on nice thick insulated gloves - so you dont shock yourself. Have someone try to start the car lift one plug wire and check to see if you hear a clicking sound from the plug or see an actual spark. If nothing then you know you have no spark!

Might be some other way to do this but this is the way Ive always done it

Jeff
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Old 03-03-2008, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zunige View Post
Hi Erik,
Those are "colder" plugs, and are really not well suited for a stock U.S. Spider engine as they will foul much easier than the standard spark plugs. It also isn't what Alfa recommended for a stock '87 U.S. Spider. The stock U.S. Spider has 9:1 pistons, mild cams, a restrictive exhaust manifold, and Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection. This is not exactly a "hot" engine and very different from the European set-up with 10:1 pistons, much more aggressive camshafts, non-restrictive manifold, and carburetors. (I do use both the NGK B7ES and the Lodge 2HL on my modified Spider engines.)

Tom,
Do change the plugs first, and see if she starts ok. If so, put some Techron in and take her out for a long drive...

Best regards,
Isn't it a good idea to use "non-P-plugs"?? I've read several times that folks have had issues with BP6ES or BP7ES because of the protruded electrode hitting the valves....this should not be a problem with a sotck engine, but who know?
I use NGK B6ES in my GTV with no problems....My Duetto still has Golden Lodges, 2HL.
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Old 03-03-2008, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Zunige View Post
Hi Erik,
Those are "colder" plugs, and are really not well suited for a stock U.S. Spider engine as they will foul much easier than the standard spark plugs. It also isn't what Alfa recommended for a stock '87 U.S. Spider. The stock U.S. Spider has 9:1 pistons, mild cams, a restrictive exhaust manifold, and Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection. This is not exactly a "hot" engine and very different from the European set-up with 10:1 pistons, much more aggressive camshafts, non-restrictive manifold, and carburetors. (I do use both the NGK B7ES and the Lodge 2HL on my modified Spider engines.)

Tom,
Do change the plugs first, and see if she starts ok. If so, put some Techron in and take her out for a long drive...

Best regards,
Not questioning your expertise, you are more knowledgable than I am, but isn't it a good idea to use "non-P-plugs"?? I've read several times that folks have had issues with BP6ES or BP7ES because of the protruded electrode hitting the valves....this should not be a problem with a stock engine, but who know?
I use NGK B6ES in my GTV with no problems....My Duetto still has Golden Lodges, 2HL.
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Old 03-03-2008, 01:05 PM
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sensor between the engine and trans - trans has to be pulled back to change
There's two flywheel sensors on the L-jet, both near the starter and neither requires dropping the trans to replace.

However if the flywheel is put on out of sync after it was removed for whatever reason, the engine will not run at all.
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'84 manufacture ~ '85 MY Spider Graduate
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Old 03-03-2008, 02:26 PM
sgtpeper sgtpeper is offline
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I always thought the trans had to be pulled to get to the crank sensor? We had it happen two times once on our '84 and once on our '87 Quad.
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Old 03-03-2008, 05:01 PM
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Nope, they're held onto the outside edge of the bell housing by bolts.

You'd have to pull the trans to reorientate the flywheel if it was put on wrong as it carrys the magnet that triggers the sensors, or to change the reverse light switch.

If a shop told you the trans had to come out for those sensors, they were taking you for a ride.
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