#31 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2008, 03:53 PM
slyalfa slyalfa is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Milpitas CA
Posts: 1,542
I ran Spirax mixed with one qt of redline for about 150,000 miles in the Milano then went to all Spirax
then I went to all redline ns and then redline worked the best for me.
then I put in a rebult box with the redline.
I have Spirax in the spider and redline in the Milano both with now rebult boxes and lightend gears. and the Milano shifts much better. the Spirax seems to need a long time to warm up. the redline is good to go as soon as I turn the key.

I did run ATF in the spider before I got the new box and it seemed to help a lot. but I do not know what the long term damage might be using ATF. and as I knew I was going to put in a new box I did not care at the time.
__________________
1987 black Milano Verde
1972 White spider 2000 Veloce
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #32 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2008, 03:55 PM
Elio Comello Elio Comello is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Camlachie Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,122
Papajam, I think the differences are in "slip" or "shear" charachteristics. These are lumped in with the "friction modifier" package.

If the oil is too "slippery" it will not bring the syncros to speed.

You can reduce friction, but in doing so you don't want the oil to be too slippery, the force that drags the synchro.

The Redline has this NS designation (Non Slip? Neutral Slip?) they formulate specifically to achieve that desireable Shear or Slip characteristic, while reducing friction on the load bearing surfaces.

My understanding anyway FWIW. Best regards, Elio
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #33 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2008, 04:38 PM
papajam's Avatar
papajam papajam is online now
with the Librarian
Platinum Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: New Jersey USA
Posts: 7,544
Send a message via Yahoo to papajam
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gubi View Post
Your first two sentences there seem contradictory?
Yeah, I realized my brainfade on the ride home from work. I originally wrote the first sentence using 'an EP additive'. Then decided to rewrite the first two sentences and changed EP additive to 'friction modifier' when a waste treatment alarm went off. After addressing that situation, I never finished changing the rest of the sentences. My apologies for adding to an already confusing issue.

So the question remains. Why can the use of a non-EP oil in the gearbox result in working syncros?

Answer; the amount of EP additives found in most oils (except Spirax) are too slippery to allow the syncros to work properly.
__________________
Jim

Series 1 Euro 1750 GTV
Series 2 US 1750 GTV
Series 3 Spider Veloce
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2008, 07:31 PM
Gubi's Avatar
Gubi Gubi is offline
But Mad North-Northwest
Platinum Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,073
Well, I'd agree with you, except that the EP additives don't work by making the oil more slippery, they work by chemically reacting at the point of metal-to-metal contact when the oil film breaks down. So I still don't know the answer for you.
__________________
Tom

1991 Spider
1987 Milano Gold
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #35 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2008, 07:42 PM
Gubi's Avatar
Gubi Gubi is offline
But Mad North-Northwest
Platinum Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,073
Quote:
Originally Posted by slyalfa View Post
I have Spirax in the spider and redline in the Milano both with now rebult boxes and lightend gears. and the Milano shifts much better. the Spirax seems to need a long time to warm up. the redline is good to go as soon as I turn the key.
No surprise there - the Redline is synthetic and has a lower winter rating (75W vs 80W) so it's thinner when cold.
__________________
Tom

1991 Spider
1987 Milano Gold
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #36 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2008, 07:55 PM
yvesmontreal yvesmontreal is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 338
gearbox oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by papajam View Post
So the question remains. Why can the use of a non-EP oil in the gearbox result in working syncros?

Answer; the amount of EP additives found in most oils (except Spirax) are too slippery to allow the syncros to work properly.
A few years ago, John Hoard (who used to be a Ford engineer when not playing with his GTA) wrote a piece about this for the Alfa Owner. if somebody could drag it out...

From what I remember, the API GL5 spec changed over the years, calling for more and more Extreme Pressure additive - or else Alfas really require GL4, which is an obsolete spec. As mentioned, the presence of this additive reduces the friction needed by the synchro rings to do their job. Too much EP ruins their action.

John ended up recommending a mix of GL5 and GL1 oils, GL1 being a non-EP oil often used fro tractors (and ZF gearboxes such as in a Montreal). SAE 50 is a substitute for GL1.

As to the switch to straight GL1... Once a gearbox has run on G5, EP additives, like antiwear, leave a surface film. But I'm afraid this film will wear away, leaving too little EP to protect the synchros.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #37 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2008, 05:48 AM
papajam's Avatar
papajam papajam is online now
with the Librarian
Platinum Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: New Jersey USA
Posts: 7,544
Send a message via Yahoo to papajam
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gubi View Post
Well, I'd agree with you, except that the EP additives don't work by making the oil more slippery, they work by chemically reacting at the point of metal-to-metal contact when the oil film breaks down.
I recall that the EP additive, unlike it's name implies, actually has nothing to do with 'pressure' or film break down but has everything to do with temperature. Temperature as in the result of friction. As temperature increases, like when a syncro is trying work, the EP additive forms a 'barrier' to prevent metal to metal contact. In essence, it increases lubricity. Or colloquially speaking, makes it slippery.
This explains why replacing an EP oil in a gearbox with a non-EP lubricant can result in the syncros starting to work again. One should also note that when Alfa switched the syncro material in 1968, the sticker by the gearbox fill plug was changed to say something like 'do not use EP oil', or words to that effect.
__________________
Jim

Series 1 Euro 1750 GTV
Series 2 US 1750 GTV
Series 3 Spider Veloce
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #38 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2008, 10:25 AM
WopJob's Avatar
WopJob WopJob is online now
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Pequannock, NJ
Posts: 338
...what material are the synchros in the Spider gearboxes made of?
__________________
Tony G. in NJ
87 Graduate - Calimero '90 Toyota Tercel - Babbaluci
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #39 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2008, 10:36 AM
Gubi's Avatar
Gubi Gubi is offline
But Mad North-Northwest
Platinum Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,073
Close. It's high temperature at the point of metal to metal contact. If the metal surfaces don't touch then the EP lube doesn't come into play. Good discussion and illustration at the link (taught me a few things, that's for sure):

Oil analysis and lubrication learning cennter

Could this affect the synchronizer operation? Mongo dunno. But if the non-EP works better because you get more friction because you have more metal-metal contact, I'm not sure that's the way you want to go.

I think you've got it backwards on the synchro material: the pre-'68s use non EP (Dentax GL-1), the post-'68s use EP (Spirax). The thread below seems to agree with this.

transmission oil
__________________
Tom

1991 Spider
1987 Milano Gold
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #40 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2008, 10:37 AM
Gubi's Avatar
Gubi Gubi is offline
But Mad North-Northwest
Platinum Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,073
Quote:
Originally Posted by WopJob View Post
...what material are the synchros in the Spider gearboxes made of?
They're molybdenum. Everything in the modern Alfa tranny is GL-5 compatible - no brass.
__________________
Tom

1991 Spider
1987 Milano Gold
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #41 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2008, 11:43 AM
WopJob's Avatar
WopJob WopJob is online now
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Pequannock, NJ
Posts: 338
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gubi View Post
They're molybdenum. Everything in the modern Alfa tranny is GL-5 compatible - no brass.
...So, since the additives in GL5, whatever they are, attack (coat) yellow metals such as brass we should not use it. But since there is no brass or any other yellow metal in our gearboxes then GL-5 os OK to use, just as the manual say.
Additionally, since Gl-4 works with Molly then it can be used too.

case closed?
__________________
Tony G. in NJ
87 Graduate - Calimero '90 Toyota Tercel - Babbaluci
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #42 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2008, 01:28 PM
papajam's Avatar
papajam papajam is online now
with the Librarian
Platinum Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: New Jersey USA
Posts: 7,544
Send a message via Yahoo to papajam
Quote:
Originally Posted by WopJob View Post
case closed?
Other than to say that I couldn't remember which sticker went on which type of gearbox so I used this post as a reference, yes, case closed.
__________________
Jim

Series 1 Euro 1750 GTV
Series 2 US 1750 GTV
Series 3 Spider Veloce
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #43 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2008, 02:53 PM
mojave mojave is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elkhorn, NE
Posts: 37
I purchase Redline products from Jack Beck in Omaha, NE. He used to race Alfas and still builds Alfa race cars, engines, etc. When I bought my '86 Spider last summer I went to him to purchase some oil for the transmission. He sold me Redline MTL. I later read some threads here that had me worried. I called back and was assured that MTL is all he has ever used in Alfa's (at least of the Redline products) and he has had no problems.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #44 (permalink)  
Old 02-29-2008, 11:18 AM
alfadan's Avatar
alfadan alfadan is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: augusta ks
Posts: 766
I put Redline 7590ns in mine. The only time Ive driven it (around the block, on 2-3 cyliners and not-very-good brakes) I had to really slam the gears to keep moving so it wouldnt die and to slow down and such. I didnt have a single crunch and no over-excessive pressure to get it in gear. seems to be good stuff.
__________________
Dan
69 spider 105.62
[B]Fabbrica Augusta[/B]
Moto~[B]SERVIZIO[/B]~Auto
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #45 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2008, 06:49 AM
Joe Papa Sr Joe Papa Sr is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: clearwater FL
Posts: 1,396
Whew!! Glad this is cleared up now..LOL

One really needs to be an organic chemist to get all this stuff........

Jake at IAP was telling me a few days ago, that some of the claims the oil companies make should be taken with a grain of salt, in other words, and that the only real way to improve the tranny is to lighten the gears, cuz alfa made them waaaaay too heavy for this little car. (and of course, check rings and all while youre in there). This sounds like the right direction.......

Anyone know someone that can do a good job of this at fair price?
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
<