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Old 05-13-2004, 11:28 AM
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Engine for 1992 spyder

Hey I'm loking for stock engine for 92 spyder mine went caput .I think even the core is no good anymore. It was driven unffortunatlly without oil at least for 20 minutes . Any ideas from the shelf
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Old 05-13-2004, 12:46 PM
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John M John M is offline
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I would think you should pull it apart first to see what is good.

Did it seize? Did it throw a rod? What's the scoop on the motor?

Just guessing here really, but if you didn't throw a rod, you will most likely need a crank, rods, pistons and sleeves, and possibly a block in addition to normal rebuild items. But again, pulling it all apart will tell you exactly what it needs. If you threw a rod and piston into the head, then possibly a head too.

Sources for used engines would include www.apedirect.com Alfa Parts Exchange and Louie McAlpine from Denoya Trading Post in Oklahoma.

A Bosch Spider block is compatible. Not for sure, but I think the bosch head and the motronic head are the same.

Best of luck with this problem. Get some machine shop people involved for your inspection process.

Best Regards,
John M
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1978 AR Spider Veloce 2000.....the first and still here
1984 AR Spider Veloce............the second & gone to the parts bin
1992 AR Spider Veloce............the third and still here
1991 AR 164L........................traded on the SS
1965 AR Sprint Speciale..........in boxes.
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Old 05-13-2004, 12:53 PM
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Hey Greg:

Also you should check with Jim Kirzinger of the Alfarm (Alfa Salvage Farm) here in KY. jkirzinger@hotmail.com

May take him a little while to get back to you as he has lots of pokers in the fire so to speak.

Best Regards,
John M
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1978 AR Spider Veloce 2000.....the first and still here
1984 AR Spider Veloce............the second & gone to the parts bin
1992 AR Spider Veloce............the third and still here
1991 AR 164L........................traded on the SS
1965 AR Sprint Speciale..........in boxes.
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Old 05-13-2004, 03:24 PM
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You can do some cursory inspection. Pull the cams and inspect the journals, lobes, and cam followers. Pull the oil pan and remove a bearing caps. I'll bet they're heat damaged blue, however.

I would suggest that you pull the engine and disassemble it and see what you're up against before you throw a lot of money into a used engine of unknown quality. Like John says, take the crank and block to a machinist to have them checked. You never know, you might get lucky . . . . It may cost less to overhaul your current engine . . . and then you'd have a like-new engine that you know is good.

Dare I ask how the engine is run for 20 minutes without oil pressure?
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Old 05-13-2004, 03:43 PM
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pressure drop

I replaced oil and presure at 3000 rpm in hot 25 psi mechanical gauge it still works also i see damage on valve tappets its like grinded without oil camshafts still looking good.

Also engine has now tapping noise and its not valve clearence. I took the car to Woody in PA he told me its hard to know what is internal damage at this point.
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ex 1986 alfa33s
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Old 05-13-2004, 04:24 PM
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Don't run it anymore to try and limit the damage. The tapping noise is probably the crankshaft loose in burned out bearing. You might as well pull the engine because it has to come apart. Assuming the pressure was higher before, the now low oil pressure confirms damage to the bottom end of the engine.
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Old 05-14-2004, 05:54 AM
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Hey Greg - do you mean Woody White in Morrisville? He's always done very good work on mine.
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