What equipment do I need to pull my engine?

[Oski_Bear]

Hi all,

I would like to remove my engine and transmission to replace transmission seals, replace the clutch, and see what is making a scratching noise in the tranny. Also...it'd just be fun to do!

However, as you may already know I have ZERO automotive experience prior to the purchase of my spider...maybe 4 weeks ago? Since I got the car I've learned to: replace valve cover gasket, install clutch master cylinder, bleed hydraulic lines, and make minor mechanical repairs.

What equipment do I need to purchase to pull the engine and transmission out of the car? Price estimates are appreciated, as I am debating having this done at a reputable alfa shop.

Thanks,
Oski

[ghnl]

You (or your mechanic) can remove just the transmission if you want to replace the clutch and work on the transmission. A 'transmission jack' is useful plus a way to get the car up high enough and safe enough to work underneath.

If you really want to pull both the engine & transmission then an engine hoist and jack stands/ramps, etc would be needed. An engine tilter is useful (but may not be required).

Try browsing Northern Hydraulic or Harbor Freight for such tools. They are not the highest quality and a professional garage wouldn't likely use them but they are adequate for a home shop/occasional use.

Or you can also rent a transmission or engine hoist. The advantage there is you often get a higher 'quality' tool (as long as it hasn't been abused) and you don't have to then store it when it's not needed. However, IME, the cost of renting a tool 2-3 times is usually more than buying it. You choose!

[Andrew]

If you're pulling the engine, you also need a pickle fork or other method to remove one of the center tie-rod ends to drop the rod to clear the flywheel. Tilt the rear of the car as high as possible if pulling the engine and trans together. If just the engine, car can sit flat. I have found Alfa engines don't need the tilter/load balancer for the hoist, but others may feel differently.

For a clutch job alone, I would pull the trans out the bottom, which can be done with a floor jack, trans jack, or strong back and chest. However, others feel differently, and you may have other reasons to want to pull the engine.

Andrew

[lowmileage]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oski_Bear What equipment do I need to purchase to pull the engine and transmission ..............

[Andrew]

I just put the hoist's hook on the thoughtfully provided Alfa engine lifting bracket. I've never used ropes, slings, or anything else. I just pulled the 750-lb 360 V8 out of my Ford F100 the same way, hooked to the NASCAR-style lifting plate on the carb flange. No problem.

Andrew

[Zunige]

Hey Andrew, LM just roped you in...

Best regards,

[gmack]

Oski,

Fun maybe, but more fun and fruitful if this sort of "heavy lifting" was guided by an experienced mechanic. Too often folks end up with a car that never ends up back together, creates expensive problems or even injuries when you don't have the right tools or experience.

It's very rewarding to work on our Alfas. They're really pretty basic machines with many unique "features." But there's much to learn and understand before getting into any car's drivetrain.

Just my cautious 2 cents.

Gmack
Minneapolis
69 Spider
74 GTV

[robtechno]

Drop the front swaybar and it gives you almost 2 inches more wiggle room to pull the engine forward. It's really a straightforward job. Take pictures from the engine on all sides and note which parts you dismantle and loosen up. Tag all wires etc. remove old oil before pulling engine as it is easier to do with the engine in the car. Remember to put the earth strap back when installing the engine again. It's very very important.
That's my 2 cents.
Good luck

[ghnl]

re the center tie rod (not the sway bar - that is in front of the crossmember and is not in the way of engine removal): instead of removing an end (and risking ruining its boot or upsetting the toe alignment) you can unbolt the idler arm assembly from the body. Three bolts.

And another 'tool' you should have is a camera - take lots of photos along the way to help you remember how to put it all back together!

[Andrew]

I agree with Rob; if you don't drop the swaybar you'll never get the engine out by itself. Maybe with the trans, but not alone; the front of the pan will hit it.

Andrew

[Alfajay]

Oski:

I'd begin by using the "search" function on the BB - check out this topic in both the spider and sprint/GTV sections. It comes up about once a month, and each time several people write exhaustive descriptions.

Dropping the swaybar does make it easier, though you can squeeze the engine-trans between the back of the swaybar and the firewall - it just takes more fooling around.

Dropping the tierod is essential. Either remove the idler box, or pop the arm off the steering box. It takes a big puller to remove the arm, so if you don't have a lot of tools, do it the way ghnl recommends.

I don't use the "jack up the rear end" technique; instead, I remove the stub that the gearlever attaches to, and cover the hole in the gearbox with plastic. With the stub removed, the trans will clear the tunnel OK with the car level. I also don't use a cherry picker - instead I put the car on carskates, use a chainfall fixed to my garage joist, and back the body away from the hoist. With the carskates you can manipulate the body left-right as well as fore-aft relative to the suspended engine. They also raise the car enough to allow you to work beneath it without resorting to jackstands (which can collapse while you are pushing on the body), as well as allow the car to roll with the tierod disconnected.

Don't forget to remove the groundstrap and backup light wiring before yanking.

[slyalfa]

the first time it did the job. I did it in the parking stall where I rented. I took the head off first then the rest and just lifted it out by hand. took it all up the stares to my 2nd floor apt. and did all the work there.

I took it down all in one, so I had a frend help me down the the stares and to the parking lot. I used a come-o-long hooked to the parking stall to install as you need to hold it there and futs with it to get the trany shaft to go in.

I did all this for almost no cost. the car was free and came with most of the parts I needed. I had to pay for the headwork at the local shop. and got my first Alfa.

ps then I had to get a new softtop that cost as much as everything else up to that point.

[Oski_Bear]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghnl You (or your mechanic) can remove just the transmission if you want to replace the clutch and work on the transmission. A 'transmission jack' is useful plus a way to get the car up high enough and safe enough to work underneath. If you really want to pull both the engine & transmission then an engine hoist and jack stands/ramps, etc would be needed. An engine tilter is useful (but may not be required). Try browsing Northern Hydraulic or Harbor Freight for such tools. They are not the highest quality and a professional garage wouldn't likely use them but they are adequate for a home shop/occasional use. Or you can also rent a transmission or engine hoist. The advantage there is you often get a higher 'quality' tool (as long as it hasn't been abused) and you don't have to then store it when it's not needed. However, IME, the cost of renting a tool 2-3 times is usually more than buying it. You choose!

[Andrew]

The bearing and gear noise in neutral with the clutch not depressed is pretty normal. Gearboxes vary, but my Super's, rebuilt a few years ago and working fine before and after, has always been relatively loud in neutral.

Spiders are tougher than sedans and coupes to get the trans out of, in my opinion, due to the complex console, but it should be possible to get the trans out in a morning.

Andrew

[ronsbackyard]

I think its easier to pull the engine-gearbox in one piece. I find with the rear high in the air, its almost possible to pull alone. A second person may be needed to keep the tailpiece of the gearbox low,but i've done this with a piece of 2x4.