Engine Removed Today.

[wrenchman]

if you don't mind me asking, how much did those bumpers run you? thanks for informing me about their product. i checked out their website, nice stuff.

[papajam]

This engine sling by Snap-On is the slickest thing I've ever used for engine/trans removal. Easily adjustable for any angle. For installation though, I usually install the engine first using the lift strap in it's proper location - no need to loosen the head nuts. The trans then goes in from the bottom.

[Bill77]

Wrenchman -- i sent you a PM on the price.

Anyone else who is curious just go to the Spider-Point website. Their prices aren't listed at this time, but you can send them an email and they will respond with a quote.

[davbert]

Bill,

I'm trying to pull the motor from my car next weekend. You make the whole process look so effortless. Fantastic "how to" posted photos. I have a few questions before attempting my engine transplant. I notice you didn't remove the front roll bar.... what about the steering rod below the motor?? Did you disconnect the drive shaft doughnut at the 3 gearbox prongs or the 3 driveshaft prongs? To gain access to driveshaft doughnut, did you remove the gearbox cross member first? When removing the gearbox support cross member, do you need to support the gearbox from drooping or would the motor mounts keep it fairly level to prevent binding the rubber doughnuts? Finally, It looks like your front wheels are still on the ground; how I high did you jack up the rear wheel in order to have enough ground clearance to pull the motor/tyranny unit? My car is fairly slammed so I may have to jack up the front also. Any comments or suggestions would be very much appreciated.


BTW what part of michigan are you located....I'm in Royal Oak....will we see the spider at "The Happening"?

cheers

davbert

[papajam]

The sway bar does not have to come out but you'll need to disconnect one end of the center tie rod (center link, drag link, whatever) in order for the trans to clear. I disconnect the driveshaft at the first flange (after marking it of course) and pull the engine/trans with the front driveshaft still attached to the trans. The trans support can come out with the trans as well. Use a floorjack under the trans for support.
A few things I've forgotten to disconnect include; speedo cable, tach cable, ground strap (rightside of trans) and throttle cable not to mention the odd wire or two.

[gprocket]

davbert:

Sorry to butt in but I noticed the Royal Oak reference. I'm from GP and work in Warren. Have been driving my '69 Spider most nice days. Buzzed by RO last week on my way to see "Open Waters" at the Birmingham. Nice drive, bad movie...

I will be at the Happening

- Rich D.

[davbert]

Papajam


Great timing for the marking the driveshaft tip! I was just about dismantle the driveshaft tonight before checking my email....I forgot about the balancing issue. Anyway upon further reading, I am a bit confused about where I should disconnect the driveshaft. When you mentioned "first flange" I assume it's the flange after the intermediate support with the ball bearings and not the flange sandwiching rubberdoughnut to the gearbox. So I should undo the 4 bolts connecting the rear drive shaft and pull everything forward of that (intermediate support, rubber doughnut, and tranny crossmember, tranny/engine through the engine compartment?

I also tried to pull the brake MC out last night to send out to be resleeved. I couldn't access the line fittings with my flared wrench with the gearbox in the way. Is there specialized bent angle wrench available that can get to those fittings? Otherwise I have to wait until I get the gearbox out of the way.


thanks a bundle for the always useful tips.



GProcket

I'm planning to be at "The Happening". I'm not sure if I can make it with the GTV now that I'm doing the brakes also. If the alfa isn't ready, I may do the track day with a renault or a Zcar.

hope to cya there....




DAVBERT

[papajam]

Yes, by first flange I mean the flange just to the rear of the support bearing. Which means everything forward of that, front driveshaft, trans support, donut, etc., will come out with the engine/trans assy. That's just the way I do it though.

You might want to try a crowfoot on the fittings at the M/C. I'll post a pic of one if you'd like. Otherwise, I'd wait until the trans is out.

[papajam]

An 11mm crowfoot with 3/8 drive.

[Bill77]

davbert,

I see many of your questions have been answered, but here's my two cents worth:
Sway bar doesn't need to be removed, but you need to disconnect one end of the tie rod to swing it out of the way of the tranny.
I disconnected the driveshaft at the tranny end and the rear differential (marking both ends to realign upon installation -- not sure if both ends are required), unbolted the intermediate support and removed the entire driveshaft.
I was able to unbolt the driveshaft at the tranny with the tranny bracket in place. It was a bit of a pain, but the bolts can be accessed by turning the shaft to reach each bolt from below (tranny in neutral, of course).
When the tranny bracket is unbolted, I had a floor jack under the tranny. This wasn't really necessary, as the engine will tilt back until it rests against the body.
The car was jacked up from behind to help get the tranny shifter stub clear of the hole in the floor. The stub also gets hung up on the body weld flange at the foreward end of the floor tunnel. I had the back wheels on a set of ramps and the front wheels on the ground.

When is the Happening? I always go to that show to see the Alfas and the motorcycles. Unfortunately, my Alfa will be there in spirit only. I have done very little to it this summer. It must be on the five year plan or something.

[davbert]

Hello Bill,

Thanks for the pointers. I won’t get a chance to get to it this weekend (must take other wife on vacation). Will see if I can pull it out the motor the following weekend.

It is questionable whether I can get the Alfa track worthy for “The Happening” on Labor Day weekend. I think the car show is at the same locations and the track day is at Waterford Hills.

Hope to cya there


davbert

[jantoniodrl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fgc When pulling engine, I note that it is often recommended that the engine strap to attach the pulling chain be moved from the 3rd cylinder to the 2nd so that it is easier to tilt the engine downwards and pull it straight out. My question is if my engine dont need any work would unscrewing the head bolt nut so as to move the engine strap from the 3rd and then fixing it to the 2nd result in the release of tension pressure on the head and block such that there may be cylinder head sealing issues later? Is this a real concern? Anyone any experience with this? fgc

[Bill77]

I suppose you could use one of those levelers (like what papajam posted or one of the mechanical types) so that you can keep the bracket in the middle of the cylinder head and adjust the angle of the engine & trans with the leveler. I haven't tried it, but it should address your concerns.

[papajam]

On an engine being pulled that won't have the head removed, I'd be quite reluctant to remove two adjacent head nuts at the same time. While I can't say for sure whether doing so would have an effect on the gasket, using a device bolted to opposite head nuts, like the cable engine sling pictured above, would, I'd think, reduce the risk (if there's any risk at all to begin with). I've pulled and installed engines (without R & R ing the head) with this sling and there were no long term problems with the head gasket.

My preferred method for installing an engine that had the head removed is to use the hook strap in it's normal location and lower just the engine into position. Then install the trans from below.
When the engine and trans get installed together, I'll install the head with the sling at opposite ends of the head and do a standard head torque except for the final step on the nuts with the sling. After the engines installed, remove the sling one nut at a time and tighten to the final spec.