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Old 11-20-2007, 11:44 PM
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jcgoodlett2 jcgoodlett2 is offline
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Double clutch dutch??

Probably a noob question, but the previous owner to my now '81 Spider said that I would need to double clutch to go from 1 to 2, and 2 to 3...he said he had heard it from quite a few other Alfa Spider owners of my year vintage......

upon further review, I found quite a bit of reference to doing the double clutch, and most referenced issues with the syncros...to read from one cached page search off of Googles by a certain Scott Johnson:

<<<Because of the weakness of the synchros in the gearbox, the reader is advised to learn, and practice, "double-clutch" shifting, especially on downshifts. To do a successful double-clutch shift, quickly… put the clutch IN, pull the shifter into neutral, let the clutch OUT, blip the throttle, put the clutch IN, select the next gear, let the clutch OUT. It makes shifting much easier, especially on a cold gearbox, and sounds really cool.>>>

link to cached article:
Alfa Romeo Spider FAQ - Driving Your Alfa Spider

I also read a number of the responses from a question about the double clutch dutch on the alfabb.com board:
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-1966-up/50932-new-clutch-synchros.html

but still not the answer to my specific questions which is to say, anyone know what is wrong with the syncros design [eventually] requiring double clutching...?...as well, what if you replaced the syncros, would you still need to do as such?...

thanks much in advance...
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Jim...

1981 Alfa Romeo Spider
a bit of Euro two wheels gone bad: [URL="http://www.esscape.com/aboutus/aboutus.htm#jim"][COLOR="Blue"]http://www.esscape.com/aboutus/aboutus.htm#jim[/COLOR][/URL]
and other complete madness: [URL="http://esscape.com/rides/2trips/trips.htm"][COLOR="Blue"]http://esscape.com/rides/2trips/trips.htm[/COLOR][/URL]

Last edited by jcgoodlett2; 11-21-2007 at 07:59 AM.
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Old 11-21-2007, 12:08 AM
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Zunige Zunige is offline
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Synchronizers wear, and they eventually need to be replaced, but the fact is that it is costly in terms of labor so most people just don't do it. Hence, one finds a lot of cars with worn synchros and it's common for people to just say that it is a design issue, as opposed to a maintenance cost that they don't want to incur. The second gear is the largest of the gears that is in motion, and so its synchro has to contend with the most mass/weight and will logically wear quicker than the other synchros. The Alfa design is not the best, but if a Spider is treated well, and its drivers know how to drive a standard shift properly, they synchro will last a long time.

This thread, "Downshift to 3rd", will give you additional info. I wrote post #5 to provide a bit of background as to what is happening inside the gearbox when you are shifting (or in neutral) so that people can get a better understanding of "why" these things happen...

Best regards,
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Old 11-21-2007, 12:31 AM
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Gubi Gubi is offline
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Alfas of our vintage use early style Porsche synchronizers. This is why the Alfa guys and the old Porsche guys are always arguing over what gear oil is best while the rest of the world can just throw anything in their car's manual tranny and have it work.

Incidentally, you don't need to double-clutch upshifts, only downshifts. On upshifts just pause your shift in neutral for a moment to let the gears slow down by themselves. On downshifts you double clutch to spin the gears up to the higher RPMs of the lower gear.

Once you do it a bit it pretty much becomes second nature. I pretty much always do this for downshifts to 2nd or 3rd.
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Old 11-21-2007, 12:49 AM
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Legomedic Legomedic is offline
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It all has todo with engine speed relative to propshaft speed. Imagine you step off a moving train as it pulls into a station. If you keep your feet still you'll land on your nose with a grind, but if you start walking at the same as the train before you touch down....no grind. The point of double cluthching on the down-shift (not changing up as you worsen the situation) is to bring the engine speed and propshaft (road speed) into synch. When changing down depress the clutch, change to neutral, release the clutch, blip the throttle, engage the clutch, select your gear, and off you go. Lubrication and correct temperatures will prolong the life of everything and not just the synchro's.

I have a '81 spider and I used to own a '73 2000GTV 105 series. With a little practice double clutching comes naturally. Changing the worn synchros will also obviously go a long way (but won't resolve the issue in cold gearboxes with poor lubrication).
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Old 11-21-2007, 01:22 AM
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jcgoodlett2 jcgoodlett2 is offline
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zunige View Post
Synchronizers wear, and they eventually need to be replaced, but the fact is that it is costly in terms of labor so most people just don't do it.
any idea what time and costs are for replacing the syncros if done by a qualified mechanic?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zunige View Post
This thread, "Downshift to 3rd", will give you additional info. I wrote post #5 to provide a bit of background as to what is happening inside the gearbox when you are shifting (or in neutral) so that people can get a better understanding of "why" these things happen...
bloody brilliant that!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gubi View Post
Incidentally, you don't need to double-clutch upshifts, only downshifts. On upshifts just pause your shift in neutral for a moment to let the gears slow down by themselves. On downshifts you double clutch to spin the gears up to the higher RPMs of the lower gear.
Upon return from travels, I will give it a go on the pause recommend, though I seem to recall trying with little results...if this is the case, does it mean the syncros are more worn or I have noob written on me cap?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Legomedic View Post
Imagine you step off a moving train as it pulls into a station.
smart metaphor...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Legomedic View Post
The point of double clutching on the down-shift (not changing up as you worsen the situation) is to bring the engine speed and propshaft (road speed) into synch. When changing down depress the clutch, change to neutral, release the clutch, blip the throttle, engage the clutch, select your gear, and off you go.
definitely another one to try straight away as the grinding noise nearly soils me seats...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Legomedic View Post
Lubrication and correct temperatures will prolong the life of everything and not just the synchro's. Changing the worn synchros will also obviously go a long way (but won't resolve the issue in cold gearboxes with poor lubrication).
wondering aloud how long the Italian syncros are known to last once replaced?

thanks much Gents for the ensuing information in advance...
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Jim...

1981 Alfa Romeo Spider
a bit of Euro two wheels gone bad: [URL="http://www.esscape.com/aboutus/aboutus.htm#jim"][COLOR="Blue"]http://www.esscape.com/aboutus/aboutus.htm#jim[/COLOR][/URL]
and other complete madness: [URL="http://esscape.com/rides/2trips/trips.htm"][COLOR="Blue"]http://esscape.com/rides/2trips/trips.htm[/COLOR][/URL]

Last edited by jcgoodlett2; 11-21-2007 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 11-21-2007, 01:37 AM
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Legomedic Legomedic is offline
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"Choke" position is next to the hand throttle control at the back of the centre console above the transmission tunnel. I would send pics but am far from home (maybe someone elso could help with that).
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Old 11-21-2007, 04:54 AM
Erik Erik is offline
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I'll advise doing double clutch on up shiffs 1 to 2 and 2 to 3, as well, but no blibbing the accelerator pedal.
I doesn't take longer than pausing but you feel the gears go into mesh without resistance thus avoiding wear on the synchos.
Erik
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Old 11-21-2007, 07:49 AM
Greg Gordon Greg Gordon is offline
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I wrote a pretty detailed article on this subject here: Guibo, DS, Clutch

I always double clutch, and save the syncros for those drag races where I need them. With this method the syncros last well over 200,000 miles.

Greg
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Old 11-21-2007, 09:13 AM
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Choke position

How the topic has changed. 2 points regarding the location of the "choke". 1: You are assuming that Alfa make universally ergonomic controls (the taller drivers may disagree). 2: You are assuming that all Alfas are Left hand drive..... Mine was a Left hooker and now is a Right (I live in South Africa where we drive on the Left). The controls suit me far better now (I hear purists groan, but I drive mine every day).
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Old 11-21-2007, 09:27 AM
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jcgoodlett2 jcgoodlett2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legomedic View Post
How the topic has changed.
apologies...have started a new thread on the choke and hand throttle as I have been pinged by several others via PM illuminating more and asking further questions so moving this part to a new thread might help...
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1981 Alfa Romeo Spider
a bit of Euro two wheels gone bad: [URL="http://www.esscape.com/aboutus/aboutus.htm#jim"][COLOR="Blue"]http://www.esscape.com/aboutus/aboutus.htm#jim[/COLOR][/URL]
and other complete madness: [URL="http://esscape.com/rides/2trips/trips.htm"][COLOR="Blue"]http://esscape.com/rides/2trips/trips.htm[/COLOR][/URL]

Last edited by jcgoodlett2; 11-21-2007 at 09:44 AM.
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Old 11-21-2007, 09:28 AM
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Gubi Gubi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcgoodlett2 View Post
Upon return from travels, I will give it a go on the pause recommend, though I seem to recall trying with little results...if this is the case, does it mean the syncros are more worn or I have noob written on me cap?
Could be, but even with semi-trashed synchros you should be able to do a reasonably decent upshift if you pause the right amount of time. Have you checked that your clutch is fully releasing?

Try this: with the car warmed up and running and holding down the clutch, shift into third, shift into neutral for a couple seconds, and then shift into reverse. If you get *any* grind on the reverse shift your clutch is dragging.
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Old 11-21-2007, 09:45 AM
ghnl ghnl is offline
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Oil has been mentioned but only in passing so I'll bring this up - some have reported poor shifting Alfa gearboxes markedly improved by refilling with an oil better suited to the design of its synchros. Shell Spirax is the oil spec'd by Alfa. Most of the 'on-line' suppliers sell that product. (I found some at 'Pep Boys'.) Others have reported good results using a RedLine product (likely more easily sourced locally). Search the BB to find the specific RedLine product advised.
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Old 11-21-2007, 09:59 AM
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jcgoodlett2 jcgoodlett2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Gordon View Post
I wrote a pretty detailed article on this subject here: Guibo, DS, Clutch
smart write-up indeed...!...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Gordon View Post
I always double clutch, and save the syncros for those drag races where I need them. With this method the syncros last well over 200,000 miles.
Greg, is there a recommended interval/time for replacing the syncros?
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Jim...

1981 Alfa Romeo Spider
a bit of Euro two wheels gone bad: [URL="http://www.esscape.com/aboutus/aboutus.htm#jim"][COLOR="Blue"]http://www.esscape.com/aboutus/aboutus.htm#jim[/COLOR][/URL]
and other complete madness: [URL="http://esscape.com/rides/2trips/trips.htm"][COLOR="Blue"]http://esscape.com/rides/2trips/trips.htm[/COLOR][/URL]
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Old 11-21-2007, 10:07 AM
Greg Gordon Greg Gordon is offline
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As far as I know there is no recommended interval/time for replacing syncros. If there is one, it's b.s. Syncro wear is largely related to driver technique. If you are careful they seem to last forever. The syncros in the transaxle I mentioned with 200,000 miles on it suffered a pinion gear failure. Upon disassembly we found the syncros in near perfect condition.

I think that was the transaxle in the drag race video (search youtube for supercharged gtv6, or gtv6 dragrace or something like that). You can see in the video the transaxle shifts perfectly.

Greg