11-15-2007, 09:16 PM
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I did remove the crakshaft pulley. It is back on, but only hand-tight. I'll take a look at it, but there didn't appear to be any issues with it.
There was only a thick, keyed washer under the nut. I have no oil leak in that area.
I'll re-inspect the pulley - better to find out now than out on the road somewhere.
That thread also had a nice engine-cleaning tip, with the Simple Green. I always wondered how those Ferrari guys got thier engines so clean.
I read in another thread that the crank pulley nut shold be tightened to 180 ft/lbs of torque. I guess I'll have to get a torque wrench!
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11-16-2007, 07:36 AM
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IIRC, Simple Green should not be left in contact with aluminum for a long while. So, if you do use it, be sure to wash it all off.
A torque wrench is a good tool to have. But for the crank nut 180 ft/lbs really means to use a large wrench and get it as tight as you can. A torque wrench that'd measure to 180 ft/lbs wouldn't be useful for the more typical tightening torques you'd use (say 65 ft/lbs for cylinder head nuts).
BTW, it seems there are two styles of keyed washers behind the crank pulley's nut. On our '84 I have the style that one bends up against a flat of the nut (after it is tightened) to prevent it from moving. I don't know how the other style works. Perhaps it is just a washer and you are supposed to use 'Locktight'? |
11-16-2007, 01:30 PM
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Simple Green - good for the environment, bad for aluminum.
I got a breaker bar to put the nut back on. The pulley is sound.
I can only seem to get it so tight befor the car moves. I have it in reverse with the wheels chocked. Should I use locktite or something? I would hate to have a loose nut there.
I was wrong about the washer - it is not keyed. But the pulley is.
Edit: in 5th gear, wheels chocked. Using 18 in. breaker bar with extension pipe, tightened it as much as I can pull. Good?
-Phil
Last edited by pickupcentral; 11-16-2007 at 01:42 PM.
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11-16-2007, 01:56 PM
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 Quote:
Originally Posted by pickupcentral
Using 18 in. breaker bar with extension pipe, tightened it as much as I can pull. Good?
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11-16-2007, 02:17 PM
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Cool. Reassembly time!!!
I think I'll leave the A/C belt off, for now. Cooler weatrher, and the A/C doesn't work anyway.
If a) I got everything together right and b) this fixes the car, I'll call it the "Miracle of Spring Branch", and celebrate this day by donating to the board.
Thanks!
-Phil
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11-16-2007, 04:57 PM
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Well, the car runs! There is a water leak somewhere, hopefully it is just a hose that needs tightening, and not around the pump.
There is still some roughness, but not the bad shuddering that the car had. It doesn't seem to idle as smoothly. I have some new sparkplugs that I'll put in. Maybe that'll help. Can't hurt.
The roughness seems to be in the lower revs, 1000-2000 rpm. Above that it seems smooth, but I just took it around the block.
-Phil
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11-16-2007, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pickupcentral
I have some new sparkplugs that I'll put in. Maybe that'll help. Can't hurt.
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Have you carefully checked for 'false air'? All air entering the engine must pass through the AFM (Air Flow Meter - on top of the air filter housing). Any leaks in the intake ducts or vacuum hoses cause 'false air' (unmetered) and that messes up how well the car runs. Here's a tale of a couple of intake air leaks that caused me grief.
Also, see the link in my signature for more info about the L-jet system.
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11-16-2007, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghnl
Well, you can keep throwing new parts at it until you (randomly?) find the right one....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghnl
Have you carefully checked for 'false air'? All air entering the engine must pass through the AFM (Air Flow Meter - on top of the air filter housing). Any leaks in the intake ducts or vacuum hoses cause 'false air' (unmetered) and that messes up how well the car runs. Here's a tale of a couple of intake air leaks that caused me grief.
Also, see the link in my signature for more info about the L-jet system. |
I'll read your tale and see if I have any leaks. There are a couple of hoses that look old.
Thanks!
-Phil
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11-16-2007, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pickupcentral
Next I'm going to try a new wax...
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11-21-2007, 01:42 PM
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First of all, everyone who has an L-Jet system should read that page. Even if you have no problems, it is great and informative reading and answers the big question: "What the hell is that thing?"
After reading it, I thought that maybe that is the problem - "air stuff". I replaced a couple of suspect hoses and while the car still exhibited the roughness when started, I decided to drive it hard once it warmed up. Lo and behold (whatever THAT means) the car started evening out, and by the time I had a mile under the belt, she was purring like her old self, maybe even better.
Good thing, I was gonna try replacing the seat belts next.
Thanks!
-Phil
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11-21-2007, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pickupcentral
I was gonna try replacing the seat belts next.
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11-23-2007, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfajay
Tifosi had written: "If you're gonna go as far as pulling the crank pulley and are in an preventative maintenance mode anyway, why not change the front seal while stuff is out of the road?"
This is good advice, but I think it would be hard to change the seal with the engine in the car. I'm sure that professional shops, with lifts, do this operation all the time. Still, as a home mechanic, I would be hesitant - there isn't a lot of room to work with the engine in the car. Also, the detail of the front seal mounting is a little odd - there is no lip at the back to stop the seal as you tap it in. It is possible to knock one edge in so far that it falls out the back of the hole. Installing a new seal is an easy operation to do on a disassembled engine, with the front cover on your workbench. It is pretty easy on an assembled engine sitting on a stand. But, in the car? I'd be cautious unless there was a severe leak.
Do check the smoothness of the sealing surface on the front pulley. A groove can develop there, as grit in the oil wears into it. If you find a groove, smooth it with fine emery cloth.
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11-25-2007, 11:11 AM
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Guys (and gals),
New forum user here. I too, am attempting to replace the water pump on my 87 Spider Veloce, and having a devil of a time getting the crankshaft pulley nut off! Any pointers would be helpful. Just reading this thread has sparked a few questions. Is this a normal or reverse threaded shaft? What can be done to keep the vehicle from moving while trying to break the nut loose, beyond what has already been offered? As you all know, there is very little room in there. This thing is not wanting to come off!
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11-25-2007, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clmsj
Guys (and gals),
New forum user here. I too, am attempting to replace the water pump on my 87 Spider Veloce, and having a devil of a time getting the crankshaft pulley nut off! Any pointers would be helpful. Just reading this thread has sparked a few questions. Is this a normal or reverse threaded shaft? What can be done to keep the vehicle from moving while trying to break the nut loose, beyond what has already been offered? As you all know, there is very little room in there. This thing is not wanting to come off!
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__________________
 1990 Alfa Camaro Spider Super Sport Special American/Italian Edition. Pizza Burner with Pizzaz!
1974 Chevrolet Camaro
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11-25-2007, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clmsj
Guys (and gals),
New forum user here. I too, am attempting to replace the water pump on my 87 Spider Veloce, and having a devil of a time getting the crankshaft pulley nut off! Any pointers would be helpful. Just reading this thread has sparked a few questions. Is this a normal or reverse threaded shaft? What can be done to keep the vehicle from moving while trying to break the nut loose, beyond what has already been offered? As you all know, there is very little room in there. This thing is not wanting to come off!
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