The proper tool for round flat nuts on the Roundtail top frame - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-17-2016, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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The proper tool for round flat nuts on the Roundtail top frame

GTD posted a picture of the proper tool in a post several years ago:

convertible top frame nuts

I've managed to locate that tool and thought I'd share it with the community. The tool fits a range of flat nut sizes. You want to purchase the one for 16-20mm, A54593 or DIN1810A 16-20.

I found them at the following sites:

https://estore.jwwinco.com/default.a...ge=item+detail

AMF Tools Catalog Page

http://www.amazon.com/JW-Winco-A5459...k+wrench+54593
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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I'm sorry for the misinformation. This tool will not work.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ossodiseppia View Post
I'm sorry for the misinformation. This tool will not work.
A little touch up machine work with a grinder?

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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I think so. I now can see the differences between the new one and GTD's. There is another style of these that actually has a pin on it. It may have a better bite than this one.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 08:37 AM
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In aviation maintenance, that would be called a spanner wrench. I haven't used one in years.

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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I'm thinking this pin wrench might work better.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

I'll know in a few days.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 10:52 AM
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I made a flat nut tool from a yardsale socket, cutting away the material from the socket leaving two teeth. I certainly wouldn't trust it for anything more than its intended use, but it was easy to make and free. An added bonus is the ability to use a ratchet with a short extension, moving the arc of the tool swing away from the sometimes tight confines of the top mechanism.

However, a pin spanner would be the right tool for the job.

1 9 6 6 A l f a R o m e o D u e t t o S p i d e r
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-22-2016, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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This pin wrench seems to be perfect
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 02:01 PM
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I'd like to thank ossodiseppia, GTD and gprocket for their help. Still working through this top. It hasn't been easy because my trunnions were frozen and I was missing parts. I found brass fittings which i'll use instead of delrin because I can't find delrin. These brass pieces should work with a little machining for sizing. The exact size OD/ID is available as you can see on one of the parts, but the length is slightly too long requiring some filing. The round brass bushing requires drilling out with a 10mm drill bit. Both will work with slight modification, so I'd like to share that with y'all.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 02:11 PM
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Now onto the horrible part, getting the frozen trunnions out, a traumatizing experience because when you are trying to get these out, you are in constant apprehension of breaking the aluminum arm. But I didn't, so yay!

What I did, was take a square steel bar, and squeeze it down so it would fit up against the trunnion flat base where the round solid tubing goes in and freezes by rust and galvanic action to the aluminum. See the pictures.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 02:17 PM
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I soaked my parts in oil, and used a propane torch at first, but the trunnions would not budge. I really don't think the oil penetrated very far, so it may have been a waste of time.
Ossodiseppia suggested MAPP gas, which burns hotter, I switched, then torched 'til it glowed.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 02:21 PM
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With a proper sized punch and bludgeon, I was successful in not breaking my fingers, not damaging my parts, and popping the trunnion out with many blows.

The steel square bar was necessary because otherwise there is no way to apply good counterforce if the trunnions are really fozen in there.

I hope this helps the next victim of steel against aluminum convertible top galvanic action.

As GTD says, the cars were only meant to last four years anyway.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 02:28 PM
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And I realize the threads are messed up which held 8mm flat head screws, but per GTD's suggestion I am rethreading for a button head bolt. A button head bolt has a top which is low profile and takes a hex head allen wrench. The originals were flat screwdriver heads and when they get frozen in, they break or strip or just are a pain to work with.

I guess my car may not get all 100 points at Pebble Beach, but I'm O.K. with that.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 02:30 PM
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Here are the brass bushing parts numbers from McMasters, and GOOD LUCK!
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 02:34 PM
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6391K171 Oil-Embedded Sleeve Bearing, for 3/8" Shaft Diameter, 1/2" OD, 1/4" LG.

5448T5 Multipurpose Flanged Sleeve Bearing, for 10 mm Shaft Diameter, 13 mm OD
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