Hey Everyone. So the water pump went out. I need to replace it soon so I can drive it on these last few warmish days down here in New Mexico before it gets too cold. 2 questions...
Any reason I would buy one over the other? My car is a bone stock 78 spider with the cable tach and spica. I wouldn't mind saving some money but would really just like to buy the right one.
Second question.
The one on the Vick Auto website shows gaskets and whatnot. Am I to assume that either of these kits will come with a gasket or will I need to buy them separate?
Ok, one more question, what else should I put on the order? Anything else I might as well replace while the pump is out?
Either should work. Both are reputable sellers. Vick tends to have parts $$ specials, Centerline doesn't. Most come with gaskets, but you could confirm before buying. I just bought a new brake booster from Vick $159 shipped, can't beat that.
It's up to you but when I do a water pump I will pull the radiator, flush it and the block out well, clean and straighten the fins, then put it back together with new hoses, thermostat, clamps and belts. If you pull the crank pulley off (much easier to do with radiator removed) then you could replace front seal as well as the SPICA belt and you may as well replace that long skinny drain tube from the OVS that runs across there. Also inspect the fan for cracks or nicks and replace if damaged.
May sound like overkill but actually, removing the radiator is not that big of a deal and makes the job so much more enjoyable because of the vastly improved access. Do it right once and you won't have to revisit it any time again in the near future.
Vicks now shows $104, that was quick! And it's Black Friday....kinda bummed didn't think to check Vick, paid the $140 from Centerline. European sources I checked was double that for some reason.
Do yourself a favor and pull the old one out first. If you look closely at the two the ports can be slightly different. When I replaced one on my '89 the one I got from Classic Alfa would not connect to the hoses properly. They took good care of me letting me exchange it for other parts and Spruell had one that fit just fine.
What happened to the $88! Oh well, I guess thats what I get for procrastinating.
I will take it all apart today and figure out what needs doing. I plan on doing a thorough radiator clean while its out. Thanks for the help. The two studs that need to be removed make me a little nervous but we will see how it goes.
Well, here is what she looks like without any cleaning just after the pump came off. Looks pretty cruddy down there, I might as well replace the crank seal
Does anyone know of a tech thread or have any tips on getting the crank pulley off and replacing the seal? I cant seem to find anything super useful when I search. It seems like an easy enough job, just pull the old one out and install the new one flush but I have never done one and want to make sure I do it right.
I buy from Vick, but they were out of stock so I found an a/c Delco model on Amazon, shipped with prime, was made in Italy, came with gasket, and was under $100.
There is a great thread on here for the how to. Enjoy the double nuting. That was the hardest part.
Getting the crank pulley off is easy if you have an impact, otherwise you need to lock the crank at the flywheel or by putting some rope into a cylinder. I've read of people using the starter to get it loose, apparently it works.
One word of caution: when you clean all of the crud off the timing cover some of it will very likely get down to the SPICA drive belt creating a very good chance that it will snap the first time you try to start it so watch out for that.
Getting the crank pulley off is easy if you have an impact, otherwise you need to lock the crank at the flywheel or by putting some rope into a cylinder. I've read of people using the starter to get it loose, apparently it works.
I have read the crank method as well. It seems a little scary to me for some reason. (not sure why) I don't have an impact but I bet I could borrow one from somewhere.
One word of caution: when you clean all of the crud off the timing cover some of it will very likely get down to the SPICA drive belt creating a very good chance that it will snap the first time you try to start it so watch out for that.
Thanks for the tip. I had read this somewhere on here as well (possibly in another thread post by you) I will put something over the little opening to prevent crud from falling in. and make sure its clean before re-assembly
Does anyone know the correct crank pulley torque spec for a series 2? My book says 70 ft/lbs but that seems low. I have heard around 140 but both people that said that were referring to their series 3s.
So I got the new water pump instaled and everything came off and went on smoothly. But here is the problem. Its too shallow!
This is the new one
The mounting surface on the new water pump for the new fan I bought sticks out about 1.3" from the actual pulley
This is the old one.
The mounting surface sticks out about 2.2 inches from the face of the actual pulley. This makes the fan hit the crank pulley...
What the heck! Centerline said this would fit all 1969-89. It doesn't seem to fit mine. Am I missing something? is there some kind of spacer I can buy to put in there? My crank pulley does seem to have 2 spaces for a belt and only one is utilized, Is this not the right pulley? Any help is appreciated. I want to drive this thing!
As for the extra groove on your crank pulley. That ran the air pump for emissions.
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