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Transmission/motor mounts

4K views 12 replies 9 participants last post by  divotandtralee 
#1 ·
Fellow alfisti:

Getting ready to replace the ailing transmission mount in my '86, which I hope will help with the 'popping out of gear while in reverse' issue I currently have. However, I'm also wondering if it's time for motor mounts as it almost appears as if the motor is sitting at an angle when viewing the oil pan from the front of the car. I've also noticed that the A/C pulley seems to sit really close to the body metal beneath the radiator. So my question is this - If I was to change out all three mounts, what is the best order to change them in? Is the job easiest if you replace all three in a specific order?
 
#2 ·
Our Engines have a natural tilt towards the driver side when looking at the top of the engine. The bottom, the oil pan should be level.

If you dont know the age of your mounts, changing them is a good idea. I think it will solve your issue and give you a smoother ride.

From my experience, there is an order to follow.

Remove driver mount. This gives you more tilt and room towards the driver side.

Remove passenger mount.

Install passenger mount.

Install driver mount.

Remove and install transmission mount.

Replacing the mounts is a rite of passage to becoming a true Alfista.

Fair warning. Driver side is a piece of cake. Passenger side is a *****!

Good luck,

Vin
 
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#5 ·
#6 · (Edited)
Since you mentioned you have AC, you most certainly will need to remove the intake plenum and go in from above on the passenger side. The AC compressor and the 2 thick AC hoses really limit your access to the passenger mount, and nearly prevent your ability to come at it from around the front and rear ends of the intake manifold (unless you have very thin and very long forearms).
 
#8 ·
make sure you take pictures and label wires. Also having a few Peroni's (Italian beer) during the job is helpful!! I also changed out the intake rubber while I had it all apart. And it's also a good time since the plenum is removed to check the upper control arms. Good luck, not as bad of a job as at seems.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Passenger mount is the key to a level engine. I've done S3 and S2.
S3 terrible, S2 bad, looks like S4 toughest with power steering.

On S2 most time was spent staring at one nut. (You know the one)
I needed a longer box end wrench. With extension it was one "click" below and one "click" above to remove.

Trans mount fairly easy with 2prong puller and 1 1/2 pipe cap.

Well worth the effort in drive train smoothness!
 
#11 ·
I just replaced my engine mounts today. Thankfully I have Webers and no AC so my job was about as easy as you're gonna get. The PO had the trans mount replaced when the tranny was rebuilt so essentially you could consider it as being done first. I pulled the sump guard, jacked up the engine a little and removed the drivers side mount first. I installed the new mount but left all the nuts and bolt loose to allow for as much flex as possible. On the passenger side I removed the washer bottle, air cleaners and air cleaner mount plate along with the carb support rod that fastens to the engine mount. With the jack providing some upward pressure I removed the nuts and bolt, the starter support plate and finally the sagging mount and replaced it with the new one. After starting the nuts and bolt I lowered the jack so the engine weight was resting on the mount, reinstalled the starter support plate and torqued down the mount. Then I went back to the drivers side and torqued everything down on that side. Then I reassembled the air cleaner mount with carb support rod. I did discover while jacking the engine up the fan was starting to push against the inside top of the shroud so I removed the 4 shroud nuts and let it lay back over the fan to avoid and damage. So in answer to your question I did left first then right.
Hopefully yours goes as smoothly as mine did, I was done in about 3 1\2 hours.
My mounts were so shot I couldn't replace my fan belt previously because there was so little clearance between the pulley and the sway bar! I also gained more clearance between the oil sump and guard, so much so that I was able to remove the shims that were between the guard and the body, now its bolted directly to the car body no spacers required.
Cheers
 

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#13 ·
Fellow alfisti:

Getting ready to replace the ailing transmission mount in my '86, which I hope will help with the 'popping out of gear while in reverse' issue I currently have.
R-man, I can't think of how changing the mounts will correct the problem of "popping out of REV" . That would require something internally...or more likely, your shift boot(s) is such that it is loading up the shifter to pull it out of gear. I'd look at that first. The smallest amount of resistance in the boot will pull it out of gear.
 
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