84 Spider, clutch pedal height adjustment?

APnPoquoson · #1 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 06:03 PM

It's been awhile since I've been on, computer blew up...finally got a new one..but there's been sporadic work on the 84 spider...finally got her running pretty darn good...yesterday it became very difficult to engage the gears, today I bled the clutch hydraulics with the nipple on the slave cylinder and trial and error adjusted the rod on the master cylinder and its shifting pretty smoothly again, but there's not much heighth on the clutch pedal...is that normal, or is there any kind of adjustment? thanks for help. Allan in Poquoson.

**conedriver** · #2 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 06:17 PM

Allan,

You may have a clutch pivot shaft in the process of failing. Do a search on this topic, and you will find lots of information.

Quote:

Originally Posted by APnPoquoson

It's been awhile since I've been on, computer blew up...finally got a new one..but there's been sporadic work on the 84 spider...finally got her running pretty darn good...yesterday it became very difficult to engage the gears, today I bled the clutch hydraulics with the nipple on the slave cylinder and trial and error adjusted the rod on the master cylinder and its shifting pretty smoothly again, but there's not much heighth on the clutch pedal...is that normal, or is there any kind of adjustment? thanks for help. Allan in Poquoson.

**ghnl** · #3 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 06:22 PM

The shop manual indicates the length of the rod should be set to a specific length - not used to 'adjust' the position of the clutch pedal. (picture below)

I'd worry that the actuating arm (at the top of the clutch pedal) is failing - they've been known to break at a weld between the shaft & arm.

Check these links: upgraded clutch pivot arm

and: replacing clutch pivot arm

APnPoquoson · #4 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 06:46 PM

Thanks George and Eric...I'll check those items...you are right my book says the rod adjustment is 5.28 inches...but when I tried that measure, (not exact probably) I still had difficulty engaging the gears...So I just kept moving the rod in very small increments until the gears engaged smoothly. Its actually working pretty good now, except the clutch pedal heighth is not right...

**papajam** · #5 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 06:58 PM

The height of the clutch pedal should be same as the brake pedal. If the clutch pedal is lower, it's a good bet that the clutch pivot shaft weld has broken.

APnPoquoson · #6 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 07:04 PM

Thanks Jim...well its definitly not as high as the brake pedal, in fact, considerably lower. I guess "the book" will guide me on replacing that. Is it a shaft replacement, or is it a whole new pedal replacement, or can it be re-welded???? Allan

**George Willet** · #7 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 07:14 PM

More than likely there is still air in the slave cylinder.

I have used two methods to bleed the air out

One: using channel locks I rotate the slave cylinder to have the bleeder up at the top of the rear of the cylinder, then, with someone pushing on the pedal, I bleed it.This takes Three hands, and goggles to protect the eyes!

Method two: I loosen the rubber hose where it attaches to the tubing from the clutch master cylinder so I can rotate it; then using the channel locks I position the cylinder so that the HOSE port is at the top of the slave cylinder. Tightening the flex hose to the tubing will hold the cylinder in place. Pump the clutch several times and it will continually bleed air from the slave as you drive. You can also bleed it by pushing the clutch arm all the way forward to push the air and fluid back into the resovoir. Pump up the pedal and repeat... No goggles needed.

APnPoquoson · #8 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 07:15 PM

Okay...Just checked Eric's suggested links, and its definitly a big help, I think you'll have nailed the problem...I need a new pivot shaft. I'll keep you posted and thanks very much for the help....(now if I can just figure out how to post some pictures) Allan ........ PS..Eric, thanks much for that link I printed the pages on replacing the shaft in the car, maybe its not as hard as I thought, (famous last words)

**ghnl** · #9 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 07:26 PM

Plan for plenty of time to R/R the pivot arm. It looks easy in the pictures shown in those links but in fact there isn't much room to work. From what I've read, getting the pivot arm off the clutch pedal is difficult. There is a shaft wedged into the notch in the pivot arm. Get the nut off and you then have to knock the tapered shaft out of the top of the clutch pedal.

The arm can be re-welded but you need to get the angle (in relation to the notch) right. If it were me, I'd get the replacement arm first, then swap out the broken for the new.

**papajam** · #10 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghnl

Get the nut off and you then have to knock the tapered shaft out of the top of the clutch pedal.

MrT · #11 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 08:38 PM

And plan on replacing the flex hose. there's a reason the clutch shaft is overstressed, and a partial blockage in the flex hose is a common one. It happened to us, caused the P.O. to damage the pivot shaft, so we replaced that shaft. Then instantly broke the new one when bleeding the clutch of air because the fluid was trapped in the master and the clutch pivot is the weak point in the system (not the master).

Michael

MrT · #12 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 08:40 PM

Gosh, Allan. I wish I'd dropped in on you to find you were having this trouble. A mile isn't that long a distance, you know. I can help you with the problem, as we've done it multiple times in a week on the same car for the above reasons.

Michael

APnPoquoson · #13 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 08:55 PM

Hey Mr T...not that I didnt want to call on you...just have an inclination to look in the Alfa forum...never hurts to get lotsa feedback, gives me lots of ideas besides when I'm working by myself nobody can see all my dumb mistakes. I actually drove it up and down the street today I can't wait until I really get it on the road. She is actually running pretty good now. While I was under the car today...figured out why the speedo wasnt working, the tip going into the trans is wore out..but I put it in a drill and spun it..the speedo actually works...so I at least know the next step...my next question in here is how do I get the tach to work...This being my first Alfa I have lots of questions...maybe you can help...like what in the heck are those canvas straps around the rear axle??? they seem loose. I've had TR3's TR4's and some Spitfires, even a Fiat spider, but this is a whole new experience...pardon my rambling, thanks for listening and all the help...Allan

MrT · #14 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 09:06 PM

On _our_ '86, we had the drive tip mounted on the tranny wear out, not the cable tip. I replaced the cable center drive and had no joy. Had to order the pieces from APE in California, but only needed the easy-to-access outside piece. You can get speedo cables and stuff repaired at Auto Electric in Norfolk, but maybe there are reasonable Peninsula places, too. I found Auto Electric could re-work some old Volvo Smiths instruments, and I've used them for a few other things as my shop of choice.

Michael

**Tifosi** · #15 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrT

On _our_ '86, we had the drive tip mounted on the tranny wear out, not the cable tip. I replaced the cable center drive and had no joy. Had to order the pieces from APE in California, but only needed the easy-to-access outside piece. You can get speedo cables and stuff repaired at Auto Electric in Norfolk, but maybe there are reasonable Peninsula places, too. I found Auto Electric could re-work some old Volvo Smiths instruments, and I've used them for a few other things as my shop of choice.

Michael