non start issue - Page 5

alfaboy85 · #61 (**permalink**) 03-09-2007, 07:14 PM

well it might not be EXACTLY TDC but its really damn close and this is one of the first times since owning the car that i've ever taken my cam cover off. So I believe those are stock cams and the only people who would have messed with the timing was the mechanics who've worked on it. Tonight I'll try to get it at exact TDC and take another shot, but I think that the flywheel is backwards.

**ghnl** · #62 (**permalink**) 03-09-2007, 07:30 PM

Well, if the cams are in the position shown in your photo and the distributor is aimed at the spot for #1 plug wire and the small mark on the flywheel IS NOT at the top ("12 o'clock") then indeed the flywheel is installed wrong.

Daves 90 Spyder · #63 (**permalink**) 03-10-2007, 08:19 AM

Well, I didn't remove or disconnect the MAF. I did pull the radiator and electric fans, but have them back in and plugged. The only other connect was the plug to the radiator itself, which is connected.

I did the water pump repair without a battery in, so I don't think I could have shorted anything.

The ignition coil is only sparking on the neg side. It looks like it has a little corrosion on the inside, but I can't tell if that is/would make a difference.

Still stumped. But not yet giving up.

**Stan Murray** · #64 (**permalink**) 03-10-2007, 08:26 AM

90 spider is Motronic which has the spark sensor on the front flywheel. So you need to look there for sure and see if the sensor is in place and pointing correctly. (Does the front flywheel go on more than one way?)
Just guessing by your screen name that it is a 90 spider.

Daves 90 Spyder · #65 (**permalink**) 03-12-2007, 06:17 AM

I've got a broken coil wire and a bad MAF sensor wire at the flywheel sensor. I was able to make the bad-boy run, but will be churning my account at IAP.

Thanks a bunch.

D.

**Tifosi** · #66 (**permalink**) 03-12-2007, 06:22 AM

**polite applause from the peanut gallery**

alfaboy85 · #67 (**permalink**) 05-06-2007, 02:44 AM

So I have finally figured out what is wrong with car. The compression is low in cylinders 1,3,4 and in number 2 there is none and the intake valve seems to be the culprit. My mechanic said that Norman Racing Group was my best choice and I wanna hear some other ideas for work on the head.

**ghnl** · #68 (**permalink**) 05-06-2007, 06:54 AM

Was the compression tested with a strong battery, throttle wide open? A weak battery will affect compression readings as the starter turns too slowly.

Is the intake valve clearance OK? Try exercising the valve - it could be sticking or have some carbon on the seat preventing it from fully closing. To 'exercise it', turn the engine so the cam lobe for that valve is pointing away from the valve. Then use a long screw driver as a lever between the cam's shaft (not the lobe portion) and the bucket to push down on the valve. Open the valve (using said screw driver) then let it slam shut. Do that a couple or three times then repeat the compression test.

Or better yet, a leak down test.

alfaboy85 · #69 (**permalink**) 05-06-2007, 02:19 PM

The mechanic did a leak down as well as what he called a smoke test, where he pumped smoke into the cylinders to see if there was a leak. And by how much would it affect the readings cause he said there was on 60 foot pounds in the three and none in number two.

alfaboy85 · #70 (**permalink**) 10-31-2007, 03:35 PM

So a long over due update to this thread. I removed the head and had it rebuilt and the shop said that sure enough a piece of carbon had lodged itself behind a valve and that was not allowing it to close properly. I have one final question on this issue though. After I had put the head back on my friend dropped part of the master link into number one cylinder. After using a magnet on a stick I couldn't find it so I removed the head again since its now pretty simple. The new gasket was not torn, ripped or broken when I removed the head the second time. Do I need to replace the gasket set again? I just dont wanna cut a corner than loose the engine to my frugal intentions.

**ghnl** · #71 (**permalink**) 10-31-2007, 03:44 PM

If the head wasn't tightened down then the head gasket should be fine. If the head was tightened down ('torqued') but the engine not run then it might be OK. Maybe.

If it were me, I'd put a new head gasket in. If it failed in 500 or even 5,000 miles you'll be always wondering if your frugalness came back to bite you.