non start issue - Page 2

**Tifosi** · #16 (**permalink**) 02-25-2007, 03:35 PM

Oh, yes, the sensor :embarass:

It not as beat as some that have been shown in here that still worked, but you'll defintely want to confirm it and the other actually still function before getting too much further along.

alfaboy85 · #17 (**permalink**) 02-25-2007, 06:03 PM

I replaced the slave a little over a year ago, i thought about replacing it but the thing has always leaked just a bit, should i replace it? As for the sensors it seems the hole into the bell housing is stripped so I need to get a tap to replace it. I'm gonna replace the sensor and get one from APE probably. I can't read my friends multimeter because when i set to 200 ohms it read 1.3 when i tested the coil and it gave a strange reading when i checked the sensor too, more results to come once I can consult with my friend.

**ghnl** · #18 (**permalink**) 02-25-2007, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alfaboy85

the sensor is a little gnarled

alfaboy85 · #19 (**permalink**) 02-25-2007, 06:42 PM

lol yeah i saw the link, yeah i know how to test it just not how to read the multimeter he gave me, if i trust the reading its giving me its says my coil, battery, sensors, and just about anything electrical has failed

, I'm gonna have my friend teach me how to use his meter and hopefully get a better test. until then I'm just waiting for monday to roll around so i can get a new sensor ordered. I never took the bell housing off so i know i didn't mess with that. The only issue i put in my other post was that the sensor that was bad had a striped mount so i need to get a tap and re tap the hole. I'll replace the sensors and give you guys an update. Again thanks for all the help, you guys are priceless to budding alfisti's like me

edit: sorry that pic from the L jet tuneing page and your description helped with the meter, when i get off work i'll do the testing, Thanks eric

**ghnl** · #20 (**permalink**) 02-25-2007, 07:32 PM

I had to repair one of the sensor mounts. I used a HeliCoil. That makes for a strong repair with original size threads.

alfaboy85 · #21 (**permalink**) 02-25-2007, 08:13 PM

yeah i have a friend at work who said to do the exact same thing, you think that would be better than re tapping?

**Tifosi** · #22 (**permalink**) 02-25-2007, 09:55 PM

Light years better....

alfaboy85 · #23 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 12:04 AM

okay but they are application specific right? is this something i need to go to a machine shop and have them custom order it for me?

**Tifosi** · #24 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 12:11 AM

HeliCoils?

Nah, just bring one of the bolts to a hardware or car parts store and get the kit that matches your threads. (M6 1.0 if I remember right, but definitely take one to be positive) Most places like that commonly have them right on the shelf near the bolt bins and such.

Kit will have 4-6 helicoil thread inserts, a tool to install them, a special tap to rethread the stripped hole and mabe a small packet of loctite or thread locker to keep the insert in place once installed.

At most you might have to drill the existing hole just a little bit larger to let the tap work, but that isn't always the case, particularly in the smaller diameter stuff. (easiest way to find out: read the instructions fully

)

When it's all said and done, you end up with steel threads in an aluminum housing. It'll never strip again unless you do something really, really, really, wrong.

alfaboy85 · #25 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 03:14 AM

okay so the sensors both came in around 920 ohms each, the coil though was all over the place and I think that it may end up being the problem. I figure that because I do smell gas when I'm trying to start it then its just not getting a spark.

**ghnl** · #26 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 07:20 AM

OK, your sensors measure good.

Not sure about the coil. Are you measuring it with the small wires disconnected? (you should be)

If you smell gas the plugs are likely fouled. Clean them or replace them.

While you're getting the sensor mount repaired (it's just as Tifosi says), charge up the battery. Finally, hook up the voltmeter to the battery. Measure the voltage with no load (everything off). It should be 12.3 - 12.6V Then see what it measures during cranking. If it drops below 10V, something isn't right. Either the battery is weak or the starter motor draw is too high or there is high resistance in the wiring. Weak battery is the most likely of those choices.

alfaboy85 · #27 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 10:52 AM

okay the battery drops to around 10.8 during cranking and is around 12 when nothing is goin on. The plugs look pretty good, but as I said before there is no spark at them anyway, so i'll probably clean it once I get ready to try to start the car again. Yes I removed the wires from the coil and it read 1.2 between the posts and 3.21 between the high voltage and one post. Does a local parts store maybe carry these coils (ignition not hella) or do I have to wait for centerline to send me one?

**ghnl** · #28 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 12:12 PM

It is a standard coil. Any auto supply store should have one.

Do you have 12V at the (green/black?) wire on the coil with the ignition switch 'on'? You should. Here's my thread about no-start in our '84 Spider (I bought it as a 'basket case' and needed help sorting out the PO's mis-wiring).

alfaboy85 · #29 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 01:38 PM

okay i'll check that out when i put in the new coil

**Tifosi** · #30 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 01:55 PM

Hmmm, my post from a bit ago dissapeared. Ah well, another try:

Regarding the coil, you'll need to know if it's internal or external ballast.

My '85 has (had before I switched to an RML ignition) a coil with internal ballast, and older versions (S2 and older mabe?) apparently had an external ballast.

If you end up with an internal ballast coil and you have an external ballast that = trouble

If you get a non-ballasted coil and have no external ballast that = trouble

EDIT: no wonder I couldn't find my post, it's in another thread LOL