Engine/Trans. removal tips and tricks?

[davelgee]

Tomorrow I will be attempting to haul the engine and transmission out of my '80 spider. I have not done this on an Alfa for about 20+ years and in those days I was working with GTVs/Sprints and Berlinas, this is my first spider.
I have found a few threads on this and some very good photos (thanks Bill77) but may have missed something, so any tips or tricks especially that pertain to spiders are much appreciated! Also a nudge towards any posts I may have missed would be great.
I will be using an 'A' frame for this (though a tall one) and would like to know if jacking up the rear of the car will help. IIRC the shifter 'hanging' on the tunnel was always a bit tricky, but as I say it HAS been a while!

TIA & Cheers!
Dave G.

[Alfacliff]

there is a "ballancer" for engine pullers, has a crank and adjusts the center of ballance to get the engine more vertical so the shifter clears. available from several places, harbour freight and such. good luck pulling, my son and I have pulled his 1750 4 times now, when he gets it back together we eill put it back and hopefully, not back out.
cliff

[Andrew]

There are plenty of threads on this topic on the BB.

My own method is to pull the engine and trans as a unit, leaving the engine lifting hook in the stock center position. Before hooking up the engine hoist,

1. Disconnect everything and double check it all.
2. Jack and support the rear of the car as high as it will go. Leave the front on the ground.
3. Remove the hood.
4. Put heavy blankets etc. on all exposed body surfaces.

You lift the engine/trans combo up and out, which once the back of the trans clears the tunnel, will be at about a 45-degree slant. Having two people, one to manipulate the hoist and one to wrestle the engine/trans combo, among other things making sure it doesn't damage the body, is best, though I have done it alone (not recommended).

That's my way. Others have other methods.

Andrew

[Gary Williams]

Here's a second to Andrew's method. On my GTV, we also put a floor jack under the crossbrace that's beneath the engine, with block of wood to protect the brace. Then we remove both front wheels and drop the car as low as it will go. It's scary to look at, but the extra angle makes the engine removal and installation process a lot easier.

[ghnl]

The center tie rod - just aft of the crossmember - needs to either be removed (which will upset the toe alignment) or moved out of the way (undo three bolts holding the idler assembly to the body and it drop down out of the way).

The hood's latch may be in the way as you hoist the engine/gearbox. If you want to remove it, mark its location so it can be re-installed correctly.

[davelgee]

Ok, up she goes!
Another quick question, I would like to mount the engine block on the stand by using the side of the block instead of the belhousing. Has this been done and what existing tapped holes are being used for this (assuming motor mount area but don't know if more is needed)? I will be making my own steel plate for this.

TIA & Cheers!
PS everything except motor mounts now disconnected.

[Alfacliff]

I found some about 6" square tubing (thick walled) which when drilled made a nice mount for the engine stand using the motor mount bolts.
cliff

[Andrew]

I think Paul Spruell makes an engine mount adapter for a regular engine stand; I had Norman Racing make one. You can also use the regular flywheel end if you get some long bolts and extension tubes to reach around the flywheel, or if you remove the flywheel. From the side is nicer though.

Andrew

[jarrington]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andrew I think Paul Spruell makes an engine mount adapter for a regular engine stand; I had Norman Racing make one. You can also use the regular flywheel end if you get some long bolts and extension tubes to reach around the flywheel, or if you remove the flywheel. From the side is nicer though. Andrew

[davelgee]

I have some blanchard ground .315" mild steel plate I can use that is a 'left over' so I am well supplied for material to mate the block to the stand.
Thanks to all who kindly provided the ideas, I feel much more confident that this will go without too many hitches!

Very much obliged & Cheers!
Dave G.

[gprocket]

I vote for pulling the engine/trans as a unit.
I vote for jacking up the rear end.
I vote for unbolting the idler arm.
I bought the cheapest engine stand from harbor frieght and drilled three holes in the backing plate. Fits right up to the motor mounts.

- Rich D.

[alfaman]

i just bought a load leveler and HF and was wondering how it hooked up to the engine

notice it must hook up to two places by chains

going to pull out and engine on the gtv..thanks

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...layItemList.do

[davelgee]

When I put the head back on my engine I moved the "lifting plate" foreward to the next available bolt location. This made putting the engine/trans. back in MUCH easier.
You may want to think about doing this if you are pulling the trans. at the same time. If you are just pulling the engine it would be easier to leave it in the 'middle'.

Cheers & good luck!
Dave G.

[GTV4EVR]

My load leveler attaches to the two front head studs and the 2 rear head studs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by alfaman i just bought a load leveler and HF and was wondering how it hooked up to the engine notice it must hook up to two places by chains going to pull out and engine on the gtv..thanks http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...layItemList.do

[alfaman]

thanks guys..still trying to picture this....it has two chains that come down for the leveler...did you make some kind of adapter to hook in on the engine

thanks rc