Cowl support clips

[Pat's91]

Two questions:

1) I removed the cowl and found most the rear clips (that fit under the windshield seal) badly rusted - some nearly completely gone!

Anyone know a source for these clips?

2) I dug the goo (mastic ?) out from under the windshield seal. I intend to replace it with black silicone RTV - is this appropriate material to use? My only concern is if the material is helping support the windshield (?).

Thanks! Pat

'91 Spider Veloce

[John M]

Hey Pat:

I would suggest www.apedirect.com for some good used ones. You may still be able to find these new....but don't know. Alfa Parts Exchange probably has buckets of them.

On the window gunk....as I have referred to it in the past..., I would consult your local automotive window installer and see what they use. They would probably sell you the correct stuff.

Best Regards,
John M

[Farace]

I'm not near my catalogs right now, but I'm 99% sure that the clips are in the RH Hurtienne catalog and on their website, too.

[ossodiseppia]

You'r gonna have to remove your windshield to replace the clips. They clip on to the pinch weld.

[Pat's91]

Dang, it looks like you are right. I couldn't see how the clips would clip onto a pinchweld but that's because the back part of my clips rusted completely away! Mine just pulled right out.

I found new ones from Alfaparts ( about $2/ea ) but removing/reinstalling the windshield looks difficult, first time anyway - is it difficult?

If so I may cut the back of the new clips off and just push then under the seal until latter when the windshield or seal needs to be replaced.

Thanks, Pat

[ossodiseppia]

The only way I've every removed a gasketed windshield is to cut the gasket. It's a real pain in the a$$ to remove and I wouldn't wish the job on anybody. You might want to call a windshield place and see if they can do it and how much it costs.

[alfajim]

The windshield can be easily removed by removing all of the inside trim and working the gasket all the way around until it is loose. Then the lip of the gasket can be pushed out starting at the top until you can tuck it on the other side of the pinch weld all the way across. Then the windshield can be gently pushed out from the top. If the clips are rusted I would be concerned about the metal under the gasket rusting. This would be all the more reason to remove the windshield and get this cleaned up before too much damage is done. This job is not that hard as long as the gasket is not hard to manipulate if it is then it needs to be replaced also.

[Pat's91]

Hmmm, how difficult is it to reinstall? Does the string method in the shop manual really work?

I cracked the only windshield I have tried to replace ( a '73 Opel GT ). If I remember right, it was a pretty frustrating experience.

Thanks, Pat

[John M]

Hey Pat:

If its like the mid 80s windshields, it shouldn't be glued in so to speak and removeable. First time I removed one, I like Osso cut the seal to get it out. I just wanted the glass. Once out....I found out that I could have popped the windshield out with the seal intact.

But a word of caution. It is in there tight. I think cutting the seal and pulling that out of the way made it fairly easy for me to get the windshield out in one piece. Most of the time car windshields come out in pieces. So I am going to vote with Osso. Better safe than sorry. You will be able to reuse the seal. Plus you can have the glass removed from the seal and cleaned and resealed utilizing their no leak glue. Probably pretty inexpensive.

Best Regards,
John M

[Bill77]

This was a timely thread !!!

Today was windshield removal time for my '77 Spider. I used Alfajim's method and the windshield came out in about a half hour -- both the glass and the gasket are unharmed. First, I did a little gentle "prying" with a screwdriver on the forward side of the windshield. The screwdriver can be inserted between the rubber gasket and the metal frame. I pried very gently, just to free the gasket from the body and the sealant. Very gentle! This step may not be required. Next, I did as Alfajim described and from the interior side of the windshield, I tucked the rubber gasket's lip between the shield metal flange (or pinch weld flange) and the windshield. I started in the top middle of the windshield and worked both directions and down the pillars. Once this was finished, the windshield was gently tipped forward out of the body's frame. Piece of cake!

This was time well spent, because I found a 2" by 1" area of rust hidden at the base of the windshield. This will have to be repaired.

Thanks for the tips. Someone will have to start another thread on "Windshield Reinstallation".

[alfajim]

Windshield installation is nearly as easy, clean the gasket removing all sealing compound and install the gasket onto the glass. Use some small cording like clothesline or small diameter nylon rope and push it into the groove where the gasket sits into the pinch weld. I cut a piece about 2 feet longer than the circumference of the windshield. Leaving 1 foot exposed tuck it in at the bottom center of gasket and then tuck it in all the way around. At this point you should have 2 1-foot sections of rope at the center bottom of the gasket and taped to the glass so it is out of the way. Use some liquid dishwashing soap and run it around the gasket so it is evenly coated, (install cowl clips) then set the windshield and gasket into the opening so the gasket is sitting in the pinch weld on the bottom. The better the gasket is set in like it will when installed the easier it will start. I try and get the gasket set in and pushed down as far as it will go keep pushing it down while working the gasket over the pinch weld. Remove the rope where taped to the glass and slowly pull one end the rope to pull the gasket out, this will be easy on the bottom where the gasket is already engaged. Pull the other side in the same manner; at this point you are ready to get the bottom corners of the gasket pulled into place, push the windshield down again at this point. I pull on the rope moving it in a circular pattern to work the gasket over the pinch weld and into place. When you are about half way up on each side look at the windshield and make sure it is still centered in the opening, if not it is still easy to push side to side. Then continue working the gasket until the lip of the gasket is over the pinch weld all the way around. You may need to apply slight hand pressure pushing the windshield into the opening to get the gasket seated and the lip completely over the pinch weld. At this point the windshield is in, apply pressure all the way around with your hands to fully seat the windshield. The next step is to seal the windshield I use the flow grade sealer in a pump can and apply a bead in the gasket between the glass and the gasket (this can be done before installation) on the outside of the windshield. The can comes with a nice plastic tip to do this. I then pull the gasket lip back on the outside and apply a bead between the gasket and the windshield frame, cleanup is with 3m adhesive remover or prep solvent. Making sure the glass is sealed to the gasket will keep it from fogging along the edges.

[Bill77]

Alfajim -- thanks for the windshield installation info.

[Bill77]

OK, here's a question that's so easy, I'm almost embarrassed to ask. The wiper posts appear to unscrew to be able to remove the cowl top sheetmetal. But there is a plastic donut-shapped grommet on top of the wiper pivot that prevents access to put a tool on the hex. Does the grommet pop off? I tried to pop it off, but it looked like it was going to break.

[alfajim]

Yes the plastic post cover does pop off although sometimes they are stubborn.

[Pat's91]

Alfajim,

You mentioned fogging on the edges of the windshield - do you mean just moisture than the defroster will clear or other?

My windshield is foggy near the base on the passenger side and it appears to be permanent, maybe between the layers of glass. Is this permanent? Can it be fixed?

Thanks, Pat