#16 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2006, 07:40 PM
akitaman's Avatar
akitaman akitaman is offline
Senior Member
Platinum Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Auburn, Wa
Posts: 1,684
That was nice of you to say. But, I must admit I didn't put very much effort in it.
__________________
_________________________
1967 GT sprint Veloce
1969 GTV
1967 Giulia Super
1967 Duetto
1972 Spider
1959 Lancia Flaminia GT
1 very understanding wife!

http://www.vintagecustoms.net
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2008, 07:47 PM
red69's Avatar
red69 red69 is offline
Senior Member
Platinum Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Belmont, CA
Posts: 165
Advice please!

I thought I would revive this thread, as I need some help that hopefully others can benefit from also.

I am replacing all four floor pans, which are rusted quite badly in the usual places, but the edges and inner sills are in good condition.

I have purchased the european pans and they are high quality.

Here is the question:

Should I:

1. When I remove the old floor, should I leave a flange of the old panel along the perimeter of the inner sill and transmission tunnel and trim the new panels appropriately and (butt) weld them to this flange.

OR

2. Remove the old pans completely by removing the original spot welds to the tunnel and inner sill. If I go this route, how do you fit the new floors? It seems like they need to go in above the central channel, but below the inner sill. I don't really want to cut them in half, which seems to be one solution.

Thanks for your input. Those floors are expensive, and I don't want to screw this up!

Marc
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2008, 10:42 AM
Stan Murray Stan Murray is offline
Senior Member
Platinum Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Columbus GA
Posts: 422
To do them originally you just slip the door side in first and then lower it to the tunnel.
A little pounding with your fist or a rubber hammer and you're in. Trim a notch off the downward lip for the cross member. You have to plug weld (mig spot weld) the lip from below, as well as above on the braces. Jack the car up really high and support it well and evenly. I welded a brace in the doorway while I did each side. One at a time.

Or weld from the top by trimming down the lip and leaving enough of the old floor to plug weld and butt weld, if the metal is good enough. Cleaning the old metal up and then priming with welding primer. Then use seam sealer top and bottom to protect after welding.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



AlfaBB Blog Articles

Advertisement


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.0.0
Copyright 2002-2008 AlfaBB.com All Rights Reserved.


An exclusive design by: Forumskin.com