Msiert's Black Spider Project

[msiert]

Got it all wired up this morning and all that's left to do is change a couple of settings in the Autronic and I'm ready to see how it works.

I found a cig lighter to battery clamp adaptor at Westlake hardware so that made that part easy. The plan is to just hook the LM-1 up to the battery when I am going to do a logged run all other times the cables will be off.

I took a picture of the wide band sensor harness to show the connector. I plan to pull the sensor when not in use and leave the rest of the harness in place.........I'll have to come up with a cover for the connector though.

[Alleggerita]

You are just one wired dude

[bianchi1]

you don't drive that car..do you...fess up...she's to clean

[msiert]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bianchi1 you don't drive that car..do you...fess up...she's to clean

[bianchi1]

a question..... do you have any urves in Nebraska?..or is it all the streight lines

[msiert]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bianchi1 a question..... do you have any urves in Nebraska?..or is it all the streight lines

[bianchi1]

just wonderinglike to see that you are keeping your driving skills up...who knows.. we just might meet up................someday..( low eveal laugh)

[msiert]

After I got the LM-1 installed in the trunk I thought how was I am going to monitor the A/F other then on a laptop in the car or reviewing it in a logged data file after the fact.

I decided I wanted to monitor the A/F in real time so I bought Innovate's XD-1 digital programmable A/F gauge.

It's a really cool little gauge not only can it display the A/F it can control the record and calibration functions of the LM-1 that I have mounted in the trunk.

Along with being able to remotely run the LM-1 in the trunk it's programmable and can set min, max values, hold those values and program warning alarm functions to those values.

For programming the warning alarm functions you can optimize the XD=1 to flash the indicated value in the LED's at Maxium brightness if the level has been reach. For example: You can program the warning function to trip if the A/F ratio exceeds 13.5 while at greater than 50% throttle position for more than 1 second.

XD-1 : Universal Programmable Digital Gauge / Air Fuel Ratio Guage

There's a video of it in action here.....(XD-101):

Innovate Videos :: Engine Tuning Resources

[PSk]

Hmmm, a certain black car continues to get heavier ... LOL

Pete

[bianchi1]

msiert's on a diet to compansate.. pretty soon he will be as light as a supermodel..

[60sRacer]

Oh, Murray.

Another gadget. Well it is pretty neat.

Just spend some more time on track skills. Nothing beats seat time. Remember it takes 10,000 hours of anything to become a master at it.



Robert

[msiert]

Quote:

Originally Posted by PSk Hmmm, a certain black car continues to get heavier ... LOL Pete

[msiert]

I thought that the new gauge could control the on off functions of the Lm-1 but it can't. Looks like I need to install a relay so the LM-1 Monitor will power up right after the starter engages.

They don't want the hot o2 sensor to get sprayed with condensation or risk being damage from a starter voltage spike on the start up. Unless I want to start the car then run around and turn on the LM-1 adding this relay is the only way.

But I know nothing about relay's............. Can anyone guide me throught this???

Where do I get a relay, how do I size it and what gage of wire should I use with it are the frist questions that come to mind?????

Here's how they describe it:

1. Connect one terminal of the switch relay and relay coil switch 12V.

2. Connect the other switch to the termanial to the 12V input of the LM-1

3. Connect the other end of the relay coil to the starter solenoid wire.

[Tifosi]

OK, lesse if this is of use (don't take this as gospel and DO double check that it's correct):

Part # on drawing is for a 30 amp Bosch relay that can be obtained at any parts counter that sells Bosch stuff for around $11~$12. The specific p# gives a relay that has a mounting tab molded right onto it so you can screw it down.

The inline fuse is also available at most all parts places like Advance Auto. Make sure you use a 20 amp fuse so in the event of an 'event' it pops before the 30 amp relay does.

Likely you'll want 12ga wire for the power source (relay terminal 30) and 14ga for the rest.

The trigger wire can be any number of spots, though I wouldn't use the starter solinoid unless you want power to cut as soon as you release the key/stop cranking the engine.

Instead perhaps the green w/black trace at the ignition pack or any of the key controlled sections of the fuse panel. (trigger wire is a low draw item so there's little chance of things getting too hot)

The power wire can come from any direct full time 12V source such as the battery +, the cable hookup at the starter or the alternator junction block on the right inner fender.

Note that the wiring is set up different AFA what terminal is connected where in your drawing compared to the below item. Make sure you double check that with those in the know as what I've shown is the conventional method, but there are indeed different ways to wire them up to get a desired result and dependant on how you want the service to function. (EG: some folks like to control the ground circut rather than the + circut, so things get connected differently even though you'd be using the same relay)

[msiert]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tifosi as what I've shown is the conventional method, but there are indeed different ways to wire them up to get a desired result and dependant on how you want the service to function. (EG: some folks like to control the ground circut rather than the + circut, so things get connected differently even though you'd be using the same relay)