09-09-2007, 11:54 AM
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Cold Box is done
The Autronic ignition box is do in next week so I needed to finish up the box, what do you think? After thinking that the panels would stay in place on their own I found they didn't so I ended up building a frame to fasten them too.
The only thing I have to do is install the micro fan and maybe fasten down the top of the box at the fender side?
Last edited by msiert; 09-09-2007 at 09:57 PM.
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09-10-2007, 08:29 PM
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Got the fan installed today, I used an old radiator hose and cut it off so it would feed down the old windshield washer tank filler hole. To mount the fan I just screwed it into the end of the hose.
I attached another hose to that so it could draw air from behind the front bumper. Surprising that little fan pumps in quite alot if air. I connected to the main power box on the drivers side so I have to turn the kill switch on the battery to shut it off. I need to find a source that it only comes on with the ignition?
Here a picture of it and one of the whole engine bay.
Last edited by msiert; 09-10-2007 at 08:48 PM.
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09-10-2007, 10:53 PM
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Director BC Chapter SNO
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Murray--Congrats.
Looks competent--now let me tell you about getting the Weber 45s sorted out on my 101 Spider....... 
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1962 Giulietta Spider: Graphite Grey/red; "Tuned" 2L.
1993 Subaru Legacy Turbo Wagon(200 whp).
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09-11-2007, 12:03 AM
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Looks FANTASTIC!!  Well, ingition controls overheating shouldn't ever be a problem again 
just wondered how sealed the bottom edge is... but it would have to be a pretty ungrateful autronic ignition if it gave you any heat related grief after you went and built it a condo
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Keep the revs up!
Last edited by Green Dragon; 09-11-2007 at 12:08 AM.
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09-11-2007, 01:16 AM
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Any reason not to tie the fan power wire into one of the + terminals on one coil?
That's a key operated source that shouldn't interfere with any of the operations. (unless of course the coils are individually struck to fire each cylinder, in which case mabe the keyed wire for the autotronic box proper might be a better tap)
Oh, and smack the crap out of the first kid who says 'what's the tinfoil for?'. 
Last edited by Tifosi; 09-11-2007 at 01:19 AM.
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09-11-2007, 07:46 PM
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 Quote:
Originally Posted by Subtle
Murray--Congrats.
Looks competent--now let me tell you about getting the Weber 45s sorted out on my 101 Spider....... |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Dragon
Looks FANTASTIC!! Well, ingition controls overheating shouldn't ever be a problem again
just wondered how sealed the bottom edge is... but it would have to be a pretty ungrateful autronic ignition if it gave you any heat related grief after you went and built it a condo |
I sure hope my frying of ignition box's days are over? At least I can say I did all I could do. The Autronic ignition boosts about how cool it runs but it does say it's operating temperture range is -15 F to +185 F. I never could find out what the MSD operating temperture range was?
I do know that everything on the drivers side of the engine compartment gets to 180 F. I have a laser heat gun that I check the old MSD box, brake master cylinder, spark plug wires (a couple were 300 F before I moved them further away from the manifold ), coils, ect. on several different occasions and that was after drives on mid 70's degree days, on the day's in the mid 90's I bet it get's a lot hotter. I shot the exhaust manifold too but the dang thing went to 600 F then went off the scale.
On the bottom edges it's tight but I got some metal duct tape that they use on furance duct work and plan on taping those joints.
I added a 3/4" angle on the fender wall today to velcro the lid down too now everything is fasten down (I was afraid that the force of the air would blow the lid off)
As a side benefit the brake master cylinder and brake lines should get some of that cooler air that flows out of the back side of the cool tunnel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tifosi
Any reason not to tie the fan power wire into one of the + terminals on one coil?
That's a key operated source that shouldn't interfere with any of the operations. (unless of course the coils are individually struck to fire each cylinder, in which case mabe the keyed wire for the autotronic box proper might be a better tap)
Oh, and smack the crap out of the first kid who says 'what's the tinfoil for?'. |
The coils are individually struck to fire each cylinder so that won't work?
Like you said, there is 2 branch power wires that goes into the ignition box (I think they were done for testing purposes) that I could use but was afraid that it might cause some interference with the ignition? What do you think?
Boy one thing I can tell you is I had no idea how expensive ss hardware was not to mention the insulated pannels I think I will slap the crap out of the first kid that ask 'whats the tin foil for'
Here's a pic of the bracket I added to fasten down the top. Notice the velcro I just love that stuff.
Last edited by msiert; 09-11-2007 at 08:29 PM.
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09-12-2007, 12:56 AM
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The fan 'shouldn't' interfere with the autotronic if you tap a keyed power wire for it, at least no more than they would cause a much more sensitive PC to mess up. (if ignition wire buzz, heat and vibration don't mess with it, I have the feeling a small fan isn't going to create issues with it either)
It certainly couldn't hurt to ask though.
I suppose if it came down to it, you could splice on to the fan power wire and get it going all the way into the cabin and tie it into the fusebox somewhere, or even the ignition switch proper.
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09-12-2007, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msiert
On the bottom edges it's tight but I got some metal duct tape that they use on furance duct work and plan on taping those joints.
I added a 3/4" angle on the fender wall today to velcro the lid down too now everything is fasten down (I was afraid that the force of the air would blow the lid off)
As a side benefit the brake master cylinder and brake lines should get some of that cooler air that flows out of the back side of the cool tunnel.
Here's a pic of the bracket I added to fasten down the top. Notice the velcro I just love that stuff. |
"Tin foil"...er... thermal protection system.. tell the kid you got it at a space shuttle auction
Nice bracket and good thinking with the velcro... I'm a huge fan of the stuff.
I still think you should seriously consider coating the manifold... It'll increase the lifespan of the coils, wiring and other components in the engine compartment significantly.
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09-12-2007, 03:59 AM
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Useless tidbit #796: If it's not actual factual Velcro brand, then it's 'hook and pile' or 'loop and pile'.
I got that stuff all over the place in the car, (makes a nice wire loom bundler), house, etc. It's almost better than duct tape, if only for the fact you can take the stuff apart afterwards (doesn't work for crap on leaky pipes though......) |
09-12-2007, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Dragon
The metal ducting tape should be more than adequate for a small air gap. Are you slotting the back side of the box or...? Just wondering how you are going to vent it.
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Last edited by msiert; 09-12-2007 at 08:12 AM.
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09-12-2007, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msiert
I have an automatic adjustable flap in the back that will adjust the opening size from a 1/2" x 3" to 1 1/4" x 3 that is operated by a thermostat control module. If the temperature goes up in the tunnel it will close the flap, the flap is also controlled by an air pressure sensor switch that will adjust the opening size to prevent too much pressure build up in the tunnel. |
"Houston this is Murray. Thermal sensors and atmospheric pressure sensors are good. The flap is in the open and vented position. The box is go, say again the box is GO. Over"
"Murray this is Houston we copy your last transmission. Telemetry indicates all sensors are fully operational. You are cleared for ignition. Over and out."
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Keep the revs up!
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09-12-2007, 08:24 AM
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Director BC Chapter SNO
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Awesome + + +
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1962 Giulietta Spider: Graphite Grey/red; "Tuned" 2L.
1993 Subaru Legacy Turbo Wagon(200 whp).
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'84 manufacture ~ '85 MY Spider Graduate 