#16 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2009, 03:56 PM
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Robert you can buy the terminal from Jaycar Electronics Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
I did read up on lead poisoning, this is way i will do this out doors.

Thanks for the response Daren, yes the mold will be the hardest to make and not to mention time consuming for just one positive terminal, don't for get the extra positive wire plus on the terminal there is thread bolt the sits upright, don't know what's that for. The negative terminal is also a different shape. I'm thinking of going to the wreckers to have look for something similar since i only need the one terminal, all this because some one who was too lazy to undo a little nut, and chose to bash the terminal in place or to remove.
thanks for the response.
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Old 09-29-2009, 03:59 PM
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The link, doesn't seem to work above, try this Jaycar Electronics - Better. More Technical. and in the search type Battery Terminal.
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:32 AM
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Speaking of terminals, a friend of my just sent me a bunch of funny picture, this was of them. Do think this would pass in the concourse?
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Old 09-30-2009, 05:25 AM
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Sure, but only if the crank lever is fused to the other terminal to ensure a good solid tiedown of the battery
(lotsa scary home-brew fixes on that site, ain't there! LOL)

Almost as fun as parusing the people of walmart.
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Old 09-30-2009, 05:37 AM
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From Rich's link above:
Page with the terminal that has the #'s readout on it.
Page with the plain terminal.
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Old 09-30-2009, 05:43 AM
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Rich:

Any reason to not consider a pair of these from that site then remove the clamp bit and solder right over that area with the cable laid in the groove? (or perhaps even use the existing clamps tightened down, and then solder it all up afterwards)


The only other one that looked of any use was the wing-nut style though using a soldered on loop on the end of the cable. Granted you can all but expect a wing nut to come loose with some frequency, but it would offer an alternative to crushing the clamp portion that grips the battery terminal proper.

Simply snug that down smartly, then tie down the loop with the wing nut, then safety wire the wing nut in such a fashion that it can't come loose unl;ess you release it from it's bonds.

Just a thought mind you.
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Old 09-30-2009, 05:58 AM
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Hi Darren,

I have about 5 ready made of those type from the PO and all have corrosion and after stripping some of the cable, more corrosion.
Call me fussy (my wife does) but as an electronics technician i just like to do things the correct way and only once. I'm going with your first suggestion of soldering, if I can't find anything from the wreckers tomorrow that looks like what i have.

After cleaning the original Negative terminal, it just looks correct for the car and it look like it's from the 70's.
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Old 09-30-2009, 06:24 AM
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Just went and took a picture so that you know what I'm talking about.
First picture shows all the ones I have except the once i strip and through out.
Second picture, what i think is original alfa romeo and the ones i like. Obviously the negative is the one i fixed up. Positive is badly damaged and has a crack that you can't see.
Third picture shows the end of the positive cable with the red wire.
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Old 09-30-2009, 06:25 AM
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Those "universal" terminal ends, besides causing all sorts of corrosion problems, are universally wrong; they're too large to fit properly on the negative, and too small for the positive. They should only be considered temporary ("temporary" in my case going on a good five years now, but I have to take it apart and scrape the crud off it at least annually).

I don't want to deal with lead terminal ends any more. I don't care how well they're treated, they get buggered up. I'm going to get a cable with a tinned bronze crimped-on terminal.
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Old 09-30-2009, 06:36 AM
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Pic #2, left side terminal looks like it could have the damaged bit redressed with some lead, then reformed using files, a hacksaw and a drill. (basically remove the bolt, slob some lead onto the damaged portion and after it cools cut the split, reshape where the tension bolt sits and redrill the hole for it)
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2009, 07:01 AM
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Good idea Daren, I will give it a go.
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Old 10-02-2009, 04:38 PM
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Found one, the positive terminal is actually of an Alfetta, 1.5m long cable, which is good so i will cut to length which will give a clean wire and replace the lug at the starter motor end. The little bolt on top with no nut is to power the AC on the Alfetta.
Now i'm happy.

Thank you for your input.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2009, 04:42 PM
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Cool beans.
Glad you found something of use without too many hoops to jump through first.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2009, 09:38 AM
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Hi all, I am having problems with these battery terminal ends. I purchased a pair from advanced auto parts, the leaded ones, and after a month of good use, it loses its tightness and it is not able to tighten anymore (the ends of the terminal touch each other). The bolt, tightened the most it can go, actually goes into the terminal, like if it is eating through it. I have anti-corrosion gel on the post. Now I know that this is a temporary solution, but 1 month? I've gone through two of these already. I don't really want to change the battery cables as a whole, what battery terminal can I buy that will give me a longer life span. Non-leaded I assume. Thanks.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2009, 03:18 PM
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If you pull the clamp off the terminal without jamming a screwdriver or whatever into the closed slot and then remove the throughbolt, you can re-cut the slot with a hacksaw which will allow you to snug things up a bit more.

Sounds like you're a victim of overtightening to me. That or you've gotten the wrong size clamps.

Depending on what type battery you have, you might consider going all modern and using side post ends which would certainly alleviate issues with the conventional/old style clamps.
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