PO gave me a new Trans mount with the car. I am assuming the one in it is bad. What would be the signs of a bad trans mount? The car has some issues (its an Alfa) and i want to see if they are related.
Publio
Publio
Elio, if you could provide all of us with the specs and materials for your homemade extractor, that would be great. That kind of knowledge is valuable to me, at least.Elio Comello said:I made up an extractor, based on a threaded rod/bolt concept. I used a machined brass ram and a plastic receiver.
I was able to extract the old support without burning.
I was able to install the new one without heating, but I did cool the new one.
Using a new support bushing to press out the old, work fine if the trans is out, but you can not do it on the car.
I can give you more detail if you like (can't do pictures) and if you are not in a terrible hurry could send you my "tool" on loan for the postage. But I am on the US border (Michigan), in Canada, so could not easily ship to you for a week or two.
Best regards, Elio
Thanks for the posts and suggestions. I used the cap and gear puller today to do my trans mount. It worked well to get out the old mount....was a pipe cap for 1.5" ID pipe and a 6" 2-Jaw gear puller.
Paul, I've gotta say - you are the MAN!!!BattleBug said:...was a pipe cap for 1.5" ID pipe and a 6" 2-Jaw gear puller.
...
After reading previous thread on this topic, I truly feared this job, however the pipe cap made it **** near trivial.
Cheers!
I used the same $3.29 Home Depot-sourced 1-1/2" pipe cap as well when changing my trans mount last week. But for the record, it can be easily used without the gear puller if the transmission's on the floor. Center the pipe cap, whack it with a hammer a couple of times and it's out. Can't tell you if it works while the transmission is in the car.I just replaced the transmission mount in my Spider using the 1 1/2" pipe cap and a hammer method with the transmission installed so it does work with the transmission in the car. I simply removed the steel trans mount bracket from the chassis and trans mount and let the rear of the transmission hang down. Using one hand to hold the pipe cap centered on the old mount and using the other to hit the cap with a ball peen hammer, the old mount came out in less than a minute. There is just enough room to swing the hammer under the passenger side floor to strike the cap in the middle. I did this with new engine mounts installed, so there should be even more room to the swing the hammer with old sagged engine mounts.
Installing the new one is a little more tricky, but it isn't that hard. Start by lubing the new mount and transmission mount hole (I used anti-seize, but any grease or heavy oil should work). Now hold the new mount in the correct orientation against the mount hole in the transmission from the passenger's side. Take the hammer and tap it lightly around the edge until it sticks in the hole (the new mount has a tapered edge to help it go into the hole). Get your head directly under the mount hole in the transmission so you can look up at it to make sure the new mount is not ****ed in the hole. If it it is ****ed, keep tapping on the edge of the mount opposite of the side that is in too far. When you are satisfied that the new mount is straight in the hole, place the pipe cap onto the new mount and drive the mount home with the hammer. It is incredibly easy and should not take you more than 30 minutes once you have the car raised to gain good access.
I actually had more trouble with the bolt holding the steel chassis mount to the old transmission mount than I did installing the new mount. It was rusted to the tube in the trans mount so turning the bolt simply turned the tube in the mount with it and the rubber in the mount deflected with the turning of the tube so I stopped turning the bolt for fear of ripping the tube free from the rest of the mount. The only thing that saved me is that a good soaking with Aero-Kroil and some firm strikes of a hammer on the end of the bolt broke down the rust enough that I was eventually able to get the bolt to turn inside of the mount tube. If the Aero-Kroil hadn't worked, it would have been a long day with a welding torch and/or Sawsall to gain access and cut the bolt without damaging the steel chassis mount. Needless to say that bolt was cleaned of all corrosion and liberally coated with anti-seize before it went back in!
Hope is a baaaaad strategy!!! Did you change the oil while you were under there to less slippery types??? This can help a bit.I'm hoping that this means that my 2nd gear crunch is going to be greatly reduced - hey a fella can dream, can't he?