New Shock Absorbers

Gary T · #1 (**permalink**) 02-19-2006, 02:38 PM

I need to replace the shock absorbers on my 1993 Spider Veloce, both front and back. I'm not particulary skilled mechanically, but can handle minor tasks such as changing the oil, etc..How difficult is it to change the shocks? Should I attempt it, or go ahead and farm the job out to my local mechanic? Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also, I'm probably going to order the OEM type shocks that IAP sells....any thoughts?

johnnym · #2 (**permalink**) 02-19-2006, 03:47 PM

Front shocks- not a problem- they unbolt easily. Rear shocks can be more of a problem, as the lower nuts can be a right pain to get undone. The problem is that access to them is restricted by the sides of the trailing arm, and they thread onto a free- moving rod. What this means is that you must turn the nut with one hand, whilst keeping the rod in position with the other. Alfa helpfully provided a notch in the rod, so that a screwdriver can be used. In my experience this does not provide enough purchase to overcome the invariable corrosion. Aftermarket shocks had a hex head on the bottom- much easier to grip.
Alternatively, cut the nuts off with a hacksaw or nut splitter.

phil c · #3 (**permalink**) 02-19-2006, 04:19 PM

If you don't already have them, get a set of Rhino Ramps from your local auto parts store. They'll give you tons more room to work under your Alfa. You'll probably need a pair of needle nosed vice grips to hold the shaft while you take off the bottom nuts(make sure they're thin enough to fit between the spring coils) and an extension and flex head to get to the bolts securing the top of the shocks (accessed through two holes in the panel behind the seats). I've done mine twice in the past year- it's not that difficult. Plus you'll get a great sense of satisfaction from doing it yourself.
Go for it!

Phil C.

Gary T · #4 (**permalink**) 02-20-2006, 08:40 AM

Great advice, guys! I appreciate the help very much. I'm ordering the shocks today, and will install them myself. Thanks!

phil c · #5 (**permalink**) 02-20-2006, 09:59 AM

One more thing...
The rear shocks will probably have some sort of band on them to keep them compressed. DONT TAKE IT OFF UNTIL YOU'VE GOT EVERYTHING LINED UP!! (Ask me how I know..) The rears need to be compressed in order to be manuevered through the holes in the rear panel and trunk.
Phil C

Gary T · #6 (**permalink**) 02-20-2006, 10:11 AM

THANK YOU VERY MUCH, PHIL....I'm sure you've helped me avoid some major frustration!

Sapilot143 · #7 (**permalink**) 02-20-2006, 11:31 AM

Gary

I will be replacing the front Shocks on my 88 in the near future. Any tips (or pics) that you come accross as you change you shocks will help me and would be most appreciated.

Thanks

phil c · #8 (**permalink**) 02-20-2006, 06:48 PM

It's straight forward.
Jack up the front (l or r). Take off the wheel. Use jack stand. Remove the lower nuts then remove the upper nuts. Stick the new shock where the old shock was. Tighten the nuts. Pat yourself on the back and have a beer. Then do the other side. Really, it's not very complicated.
Phil C

Gary T · #9 (**permalink**) 02-21-2006, 09:17 AM

Guys...Rhino Ramps and Shocks are on order. I will attempt to take some pics of my progress when I get started, for anyone's future reference....thanks again for all the tips and advice!

Gary

Fibonacci · #10 (**permalink**) 03-01-2006, 01:06 PM

Did you get to take any pictures? I'm planning on a similar surgical procedure this spring.....

Chet · #11 (**permalink**) 03-01-2006, 02:59 PM

Just got done with my '82. Front was snap. much easier than I thought. Jack up, wheels off, old shock off, new shocks on. On the road. The rear ones are as said, a bit of a pain.

I jacked up the rear end. Put jack stands under drag link and left floor jack in place. Cut original shock book with knife between spring loops and grabbed shock shaft with vise grips. Remember those olds shocks will never be used again. Removed bottom lock nut and manin nut.

Access to top of shock was through enspection panels behind rear deck to trunk. I removed the top two bolts for each shock and pulled out through inside of car.

New shock is fairly easy to mount. The problem is the compression band on the shock. It can be removed, however remember as was said the shock will expand to its full length. This is not as much of a problem as I thought it would be. I removed the band, and fed the shock throug the espection panel hole down into the trunck panel hole through coil spring. Then went under car and moved shock so bottom shaft fell through drag link hole.

The shock now sticks about 3 inches above the top shock hole in the trunk. With my spare tire jack, I jacked up the rear right jack point on the body. This raised the car body the 3 inches so I could then bolt the top of the shock to the trunk panel. The same thing was done for the other side.

Lastly I tightened all bolts and nuts. Remembering to put the lock nuts on the bottom of shocks.

All total, abouat two plus hours of work.

Hope this helps.

Fibonacci · #12 (**permalink**) 03-01-2006, 03:34 PM

__________________
Chet
1982 spider
1987 528e

Chet - any alignment required after changing front ?

btw
Great minds think alike -
I have
1985 spider
1985 528e

Chet · #13 (**permalink**) 03-01-2006, 08:19 PM

Not that I'm aware. When I replace shocks that are more integrated like struts, I do have the front end aligned and with full floating systems, the rear end also. With the Alfa front A arm system, I'm not sure. Havn't done it as of yet. However, having said that, I am going to have the system aligned in the near future. Most experts that I have read or heard from suggest alignments as a very good preventative measure.

Gary T · #14 (**permalink**) 03-06-2006, 07:09 PM

Fabonacci...I finally got my new shocks, and in my enthusiasm to get them installed, I failed to take any pictures. My experience was essentially exactly the same as Chet's. And as Phil C. indicated, it really is not that difficult. As mentioned, the rear shocks take a little more maneuvering and messing around with than the fronts, but they're not that tough to install. The front shocks took me about and hour and a half, and the rears about two hours. I'm sure a good mechanic could probably do the whole job in about two hours. Sorry I didn't get the pictures taken, but it's really just a matter of getting the nuts off the old shocks and removing them and reinstalling the new ones. Good luck!

Fibonacci · #15 (**permalink**) 03-07-2006, 07:33 AM

Gary;
that happens to me all the time - I end up with a lot of 'after' pictures but no 'befores'

You've all convinced me that I can do it! I'm going with a direct replacement- as close to the original stock as I can find. I don't need too much dampening, nor do I want it too stiff.

Can't wait until Spring -
(pun not really intended)
-F