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replacing rear brake pads

13K views 27 replies 9 participants last post by  jcslocum 
#1 ·
i need to replace the rear pads on my 1990 spider quad. Are there any really good detailed threads that can walk me through it? Any good pictures from someone doing a brake job or videos out there?
 
#2 ·
If they're the same as my 70, its very easy.There are 2 pins that you punch out,and a retaining clip, and you can slip the pads in without removing the calliper. Its a very easy change.
good luck.
 
#4 · (Edited)
There doesn't appear to be one in the FAQ so I will list the steps for you. Sorry, no pics yet!

Safety first:


  • Jack up car, place jack stand under car.
  • Check master cylinder, if full, suck (Momma's turkey baster works well here) some brake fluid out. This will keep it from overflowing as you push the pistons back into the bores of the caliper.
  • Remove wheel.
  • Grab small ball pein hammer and punch out the 2 pins that hold the pads and clip in. Take digital picture if you have CRS (can't remember $hite). Do one side at a time if you need to look at something in detail to put it right.
  • Pull 1 pad (inner or outer, doesn't matter) out. You might need to do some pulling or prying to get it to slide out.
  • Once that pad is out, you need to push the piston back into the bore. I use a large screwdriver (flat blade) to perform this fuction.
  • Insert new pad after putting some anti-squeek goop on the backing plate.
  • Pull other pad and repeat.
  • Put pins back in, remember clip. Tap them HOME to make sure they stay in.
  • Refill rez with NEW fluid from an un opened can. Flush system if it's been more than a few years since last full flush/bleed.
You have 4 pads and 4 pistons, That is why you do them 1 at a time.
Pump pedal to extend pistons and bring pedal up.

Drive safely!
 
#10 ·
J-lo

This is an easy step by step program for replacing brake pads but there is almays more than meets the eye....

While in there, you mat run into the rotor having a small lip on the outer edge. This is from the pads wearing the rotor disc thinner over time. The rotor does have a MINIMUM safe thickness, so if the lip is "high/tall" it can make getting the pads out a bit harder and you need to measure the thickness of the rotor to see if it has life left in it. You can do this with a cheap Harbor Fright $9.99 (on sale) digital caliper. So make sure to check this out, as it's all part and parcel of a good brake job.

  • Inspect the steel brake lines going to each caliper for rust.
  • Inspect the brake bleeders and open them up and flush the brake fluid out every few years. BF absorbs moisture and this will cause rust inside of the caliper.
  • Inspect and probably replace the rubber hose that goes from the body to the rear axle. If it's from 1990, definately plan on replacing.
  • Inspect the backing plates below the axle for oil contamination. You might have a leaking rear axle seal after 22 years.
  • Drain and refill the rear end. Probably also 1990 oil and could use a refresh.
  • Inspect rear shocks for signs of leaking.
  • Inspect all rubber bushings in the rear. They perish over time.

Good luck and have fun. Most of what I have listed is just a visual check with a flash light but gives you the opportunity to become more intimate with your Alfa and appreciate the fine engineering too.
 
#12 ·
I agree with Jon. Any time I replace brake pads, I flush the brake fluid. I got a MOTIV pressure bleeder which makes bleeding brakes so easy.

After you push the pistons in, drain all the brake fluid in the reservoir. It'll be dirty, so pour a bit of new in and drain that too. Then half fill the reservoir with fluid and connect the MOTIV. The MOTIV pressure canister holds a couple of cans of brake fluid, so it will then keep the reservoir full and prevent any air entering. [Be sure to remove the rubber bellows from the brake reservoir for those of you that have one of the early brake systems]. Do not pressurize yet - you'll push the pistons out!

Use the Centerline gauge to check the piston rotation alignment. They are usually OK, but always check.

After you install the new pads, pressurize the MOTIV. You may need to pump the brakes, but perhaps not, to get the pistons out and the new shoes in contact. Then open the bleeders one at a time (order does not matter much with a pressure bleeder); this will push more brake fluid out. When there is fresh clear fluid coming out, lock each bleeder. You now have fresh fluid from the reservoir to the caliper, and the caliper is mostly full of fresh fluid too.

Robert
 
#13 ·
A few other notes:

I find that front pads wear two to three times faster than rears. i.e. Three front pad replacements for each time the rear pads get renewed.

I use a dremel or a air grinder with a stone to remove the lip of the brake disc. Yes, it's not as exact as grinding (on or off the car), but it will have little affect on the disc balance. The lip is from wear of the rotor, where the pad leaves about 1 mm of the rotor unswept.

I find that rotors last about three pad sets before they need to be replaced. That usually means three front rotor sets for every rear rotor set.

--Unless you get into autocross or time trials, where you might use different pads just for these events, then return to street pads to drive home.

Slotted rotors slightly help braking, but only for time trial or track use. For street they just wear the pads faster.

I never found any good from drilled rotors. Anything but top line work in drilling and you just get cracked rotors. The edges of the holes MUST be chamfered correctly to prevent cracks. Mostly, these type of rotors are just a waste of $$$. Get better pads instead.

Robert
 
#14 ·
OH, one more thing. Never drive more than 10 feet before you test the brakes. Every now and then, something isn't right and you desperately grab for the hand brake to stop!!

Then go seat the new pads. Find a clear road, drive to 30 to 40 mph, stop nearly full. Repeat several times, letting the brakes cool in between stops. Stop HARD, so all the junk you forgot goes flying forward; it seats the pads better. Cool the brakes, repeat.

Go home and smile 'cuz you've done a good job, saved $300 or more, and got the best brake job you've ever had.

:D

Robert
 
#17 ·
Guys, ok I'm inspecting my rear brakes first time. The pads look thick and new, but the rotors look like hell. See pick . They measure 10/32nds. Not too thin I don't think but the surface seems pitted or maybe it pad residue. ??? What do you think? I'll send pic soon can't from iPad I guess.
 
#18 ·
Ok, so here are my rotors. 10/32 thick but they are pitted or have something on them (im a newbie at brakes). THe pads look thick and i blew all the dust out with 100 psi air. What is your opinion of the rotors? Do they need replacing or cutting down? Are they are to remove?
 

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#19 ·
New pads are 10 to 12 mm thick (just the wear material, not the metal back plate). Looks like the brakes have not been used in quite some time.

If all the pads are OK, I'd change the brake fluid as completely as I can, and drive the car a bit (carefully, so you don't get into trouble when the brakes have minor troubles). The pads will wear off the surface rust, then you can get an assessment of the real condition of the rotors. You will likely find the pitting is less than you expected. I wouldn't go racing with some pitting, but street driving almost never needs 110% braking.

Since the car has obviously been sitting for quite a while, I'd also change the diff and TX lube (Alfas are very finicky about the right lubes here, affecting the way they shift), the coolant, and the engine oil. After driving just a few 100's of miles, I'd change all of them again.

Robert
 
#24 ·
looks like my passenger side caliper is frozen. All other rotors are worn evenly and pads make good contact. the one in question is not hitting evenly and with pressure on the outside of rotor at least. I guess i will try to unfreeze the caliber. Maybe replace it. I dont feel any pulling (maybe cuz its the rear). But it was also recommended to replace both rear caliper if one needs it. For even braking distribution. Clean fluid, etc. Or maybe just a rebuild kit?
 
#27 ·
Don't know if you need to replace them, but if you're going to rebuild one of them, then it makes sense to do both. Of course you can always buy two new calipers and save the trouble of rebuilding. Just a matter of money vs. time, frustration of doing it yourself. If you buy new...hey, why not two new rotors and pads and flex brake line as well?? Oh no...sounds like a slippery slope! :)
 
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