Hello all,
I've been following a LOT and contributing a little to the forum over the last year and a half, and I noticed a while back that you have to do a bit of searching to find what is available for the Spider in each category. I've finally accumulated enough info to at least start a thread which I intend to be a quick and easy reference for most upgrades, a literal Upgrade Options archive.
PLEASE add to my collection if you can. I'm shooting for as many different upgrades of all types as possible, along with any available stats and purchase info. This should save a lot a people a lot of time.
Note: *The prices that I have are either what I paid for it, or what I found it listed at online at the time of this write up. **Many parts are interchangeable between the different series Spiders, but this is geared specifically to the S3.
SUSPENSION-SPRINGS:
1. The famous Red Springs from IAP: $229 (front and rear sets), will stiffen significantly, almost eliminate body roll, and lower the car about an inch (I have a modified set, and I love them).
2. Yellow performance springs from Centerline: $240 (for front and rear, sold separately). Product description sounds identical to IAP's red set.
SUSPENSION-SHOCKS:
1. Koni Yellows: $130 ea. A common recommendation, said to provide both sportier handling and a better ride. Adjustable.
2. Koni Reds: $100 ea. A little milder version of the Yellows, non-adjustable.
3. Bilstein HD: $95 ea. A slightly cheaper alternative to the Koni's, and from my personal experience they perform well and give a smoother ride over most surfaces. *I have seen concerns about these breaking the mounts, so ensure good structural health before an install!
SUSPENSION-OTHER:
1. Polyurethane bushings: Available from IAP, Centerline, and others. Prices vary by specific piece. Said to increase handling precision and all around stability.
2. Rear sway bar: Stock diameter is 1/2", replacing with a 5/8" bar reduces roll and understeer. Available at IAP for $159.
3. Chassis stiffener: available at IAP for $589, or you can try making your own like others have. From what i've read it's a dramatic handling improvement.
4. Dropped spindles: For lowering, available from Richard Jemison (scuderiagiallo.com).
5. Many other parts are available (for many British pounds) through Alfaholics, including lightweight trailing arms and spring pans, "race" components, etc.
WHEELS-RIMS:
* You're best off checking out designated threads on this, but common favorites for performance include Campagnolo's and Panasports, or upsizing to 15-inchers.
WHEELS-OTHER:
1. Spacers: H&R makes 25mm hub-centric spacers for the Spider. Sold as front and rear sets for $150 each.
2. Brake rotors: Drilled and slotted rotors available at Alfaholics for $84 (not sure is that's each or for a pair), or from a Google search for around $90/pair. Benefits are reduced brake heat/fade and lower weight. It's a good idea to upgrade to stainless steel brake lines before track use (or track-STYLE use...).
3. Brake calipers: Alfaholics has a few light weight versions, and I was told by retired Alfa great Alan Ward that the front calipers from a VW Transporter work with little modification and make a suitable track worthy upgrade.
ENGINE-INTAKE:
1. of course, K&N air filter: Allows greatly improved air flow. Most beneficial with less restrictive exhaust. At $55, it's far cheaper than stock in the long run as you can clean and reuse them, and they have a million mile warranty. Recommended by all types from hot rodders to Mercedes technicians.
2. Cone-style filter conversion: The cone style allows a higher potential air flow than even a K&N in the stock housing. A "kit" available at IAP for $159.
3. Carbon fiber air box: Lighter and prettier than stock, around $200 if I remember correctly. Can't find one right now, but they're out there.
4. Adjusting the AFM: The air flow meter can be CAREFULLY adjusted, said to allow a bit more fuel and power. The write up is at hiperformancestore.com/Ljetspider.htm and it's a free tweak.
5. Adjusting the AAV: Another free tweak from the above link, said to up HP a bit. A manually operated AAV is available at that site.
ENGINE-CAMS:
1. Cams: Definitely do some research before choosing your set, as there are many options and some will require minor head modification. More performance gains can be had from the exhaust cam. Also keep in mind that you can mix and match, but ensure the pair you make will work well together.
SUPPLIER CAMS PRICE
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Alfaholics 10.9 or 12.0 mm $600 set
Alfaholics Alfaholics' own profiles $979 set
Spruell Motorsport 11.1 mm race $295 each
Spruell Motorsport 11.6 mm race $295 each
Spruell Motorsport 13.0 mm race $325 each
Spruell Motorsport 11.0 mm street $190 each
IAP European spec $349 set
IAP Injected Performance $349 set
Centerline Euro+ 10.5 mm $198 each
Centerline 11.1 mm $198 each
Ingram Enterprises Street $195 each
Ingram Enterprises High Performance $295 each
Ingram Enterprises Race $295 each
Cat Cams 11.5/11.5 mm sport $594 set
Cat Cams 12.0/12.0 mm sport $594 set (assumed)
Cat Cams 12.5/12.5 mm race $594 set
Cat Cams 13.0/13.0 mm race $594 set (assumed)
Cat Cams 13.6/13.6 mm race $594 set (assumed)
Richard Jemison Racing Assorted- See Website (scuderiagiallo.com) $N/A
ENGINE-OTHER:
1. Pistons/Liners: stock and overbore options, stock or increased compression options. Big horsepower and torque gains possible. Spruell Motorsport has a very large selection, IAP has a 10.4:1 compression sleeve and piston set for $619, and Alfaholics has a set of race pistons for $332.
2. Misc:
Connecting rods- Lightweight/race versions at Alfaholics, $347-848/set.
Valves- Oversized intake and exhaust valves available at IAP, Centerline, Spruell Motorsport, and Alfaholics. The intake valves are more significant to power gains. Look into getting new springs, guides, etcetera for an ideal end result. Threads on the BB address options for valve seat angle cutting, a must read before changing your valves.
Piston rings- Hastings oil control rings have been recommended to me for use in modified nord engines. Also, Spruell Motorsport has "Total Seal Gapless Rings," of which I have no experience but would be fantastic if they indeed work as advertised (decreased blow-by for more power).
EXHAUST:
1. Header: S3 Spiders have an intentionally restrictive exhaust manifold so they could meet the increased emissions regulations. Switching an S3 manifold to an older or newer one yields dyno-proven power gains. Or... you can go for a free flow header from IAP (black for for $299, chrome for $325, from Centerline (chrome for $359 or ceramic coated for $449). OR... you can get crazy like I did and get a Darstan header (dyno proven by Vintage Customs, [vcperformance.com] to give 8 horses more than the less restrictive S2 header) with ceramic coating for $725 through Vintage Customs or Ingram Enterprises, without the ceramic coating from Ingram Enterprises for $625, or the indentical looking Spruell header from Spruell Motorsport for $675 unfinished or $843 ceramic coated.
2. Catalytic Converter: free flow CATs are available all over. Often under $200 and they'll satisfy emission nuts without holding your exhaust back.
3. Performance Mufflers: another subject to reference the BB for, but... IAP has an Ansa single tip for $228, Ansa dual tip for $258, or their IAP performance exhaust for $249. Also, many people do and many people do not like using a "stinger," which is a straight pipe muffler like a cherry bomb that is significantly louder than standard mufflers.
MISCELLANEOUS PARTS AND MODS:
1. Lightweight Flywheel: A lighter flywheel allows faster engine response and gives a noticeable acceleration gain. The original is 22lbs. Spruell Motorsport has an 8.5 pound aluminum flywheel for $396, and Ingram Enterprises has an aluminum 11 pounder for $650. Note that a very light flywheel will make it easier to stall the car and may warrant some practice.
2. Whole engines and whole cylinder heads: several choices are available from several vendors, all very expensive. Examples are the Ingram Enterprises high performance head for $1295, Alfaholics Twin Spark engines (price N/A), and Spruell Motorsports' Race Prep head for $1476. I won't go in depth here as much research must be done for each specific application.
3. Ignition: Upgrading the coil, plugs, plug wires and/or distributor gives a more efficient fuel burn in the cylinder, often yielding small power and economy gains. Check to see if your car uses a ballast resistor before buying a coil, and make sure your plug gaps (when applicable) are set correctly.
4. LSD: Another tidbit from Alan Ward- swapping one spacer for another friction disk on each side of the diff will beef up your limited slip.
5. Adjustable upper control arms: allows for camber adjustment, to aid in traction through corners.
6. Roll bar: Required for track time in without a hard top. If done right (such as having a diagonal bar connecting just behind the E-brake and the main bars mounted far left and right behind the seats), this will aid in chassis stiffness. Note that the small double arch style bars are not accepted for track use to my knowledge.
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WEIGHT REDUCTION:
I strongly recommmend you check out the thread "reducing weight" for pretty much every little thing on this topic, but just as a quick reference, here you go.
REMOVABLE REPLACEABLE (make or buy lighter ones)
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spare tire fuel tank cover plate
tool kit and jack seats
stereo/speakers flywheel
sound insulation bumpers
carpet brake rotors and calipers
sump guard wheels
exhaust components exhaust components
trim (like visors and door panels) air box
love handles
battery
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SUPPLIERS:
International Auto Parts (IAP) international-auto.com
Spruell Motorsport spruellmotorsport.com
Centerline centerlinealfa.com
Ingram Enterprises wesingram.com
Vintage Customs vcperformance.com
Richard Jemison Racing scuderiagiallo.com
Alfaholics alfaholics.com
Cat Cams catcams.com
Sorry if I missed someone, I'm going off memory...
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Again, this is simply a (partly S3 specific) general database of the info I have accumulated. Corrections and additions are encouraged. Thanks to everyone for making this forum great.
before you go messing with the afm, read this
Linear Mode
