Head Gasket Replacement for Dummies Procedure - Page 5 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #61 of 113 (permalink) Old 03-30-2015, 08:31 AM
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Contact me by PM with an e-mail address. There IS something new going on re head gaskets and sealants. I can tell you what posts to check.


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post #62 of 113 (permalink) Old 04-15-2015, 06:30 AM
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After a few weeks I finally got everything back in place on my 91 spider after replacing my head gasket. Used a reinz gasket with no sealant and solid roll pins and round I-rings from Alfa Parts.

After it wouldn't turn over yesterday I charged the battery and tried again this morning. After catching but stalling twice, I found this on the head. What did I do wrong?
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post #63 of 113 (permalink) Old 04-15-2015, 11:07 AM
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"After catching but stalling twice, I found this on the head. What did I do wrong? "

Looks like antifreeze which, at that level, will be shorting out the no#4 plug.
If antifreeze it can only be leaking from
one of the head studs (bolts torqued correct?)
or the coolant temperature overheat sender (with the wire).....was that removed for any reason and not torqued back with a new washer?

Dom - Alfa Spider 1990 S4 - formerly: Alfa 101 Sprint, 2600 Sprint, Montreal - family classics: Jensen Interceptor II, '58 Hooper RR Silver Cloud I, Shadow II, '60 Corvette.
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post #64 of 113 (permalink) Old 04-15-2015, 12:13 PM
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Ahh. Pretty sure it's coming from the overheating sender. No new washer. Is it under pressure? Can I remove it without antifreeze overflowing? Do I need to replace the spark plug. It doesn't look like antifreeze is seeping in there from the top.
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post #65 of 113 (permalink) Old 04-15-2015, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucasjackson View Post
Ahh. Pretty sure it's coming from the overheating sender. No new washer. Is it under pressure? Can I remove it without antifreeze overflowing? Do I need to replace the spark plug. It doesn't look like antifreeze is seeping in there from the top.
not under pressure as long as engine is cold!
you'll probably still get some seepage, but I doubt it will gush out when you remove the overheat sensor! (Open the radiator overflow bottle cap, squeeze the top rad. hose, then, whilst still squeezed, close the overflow bottle cap again...that will cause a small vacuum that should help!)

When the leak is cured, then remove the spark plug wire and thoroughly clean the area and dry off the cap. Sparkplug itself will be fine, the fluid will not have seeped into the cylinder.

then try starting

Dom - Alfa Spider 1990 S4 - formerly: Alfa 101 Sprint, 2600 Sprint, Montreal - family classics: Jensen Interceptor II, '58 Hooper RR Silver Cloud I, Shadow II, '60 Corvette.

Last edited by spiderserie4; 04-15-2015 at 01:59 PM. Reason: add info
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post #66 of 113 (permalink) Old 04-15-2015, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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Ahh. Pretty sure it's coming from the overheating sender.
That's a 27mm socket you will need to remove and replace the sensor.

I'm pretty sure I used High Temp teflon paste from Permatex.

Good luck,

Vin

1991 Spider Veloce - Red on Tan - Rosa Bionda
1987 Spider Quadrifoglio - Red on Grey - Rosa - Sold
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post #67 of 113 (permalink) Old 04-16-2015, 09:16 AM
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Just to be on the safe side I'd remove the plug and make sure there is no water in the cylinder. After all ther is a reason it would not turn over and leaking sender would not cause that.

The passenger seat is 15 miles an hour faster than the drivers seat.

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post #68 of 113 (permalink) Old 04-16-2015, 02:40 PM
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Timing Off

OK. So installed the Overheating sensor sender with a clean copper washer and tightened to the correct torque. That seemed to stop the coolant leak. I also removed the plug and checked that it was dry inside (it was). After cleaning the plug and wire, I reinstalled and tried to start.

With gas pedal to the floor, it finally caught but sounded like heck. Actually sounded like the chain had broken which i thought was a concern because the chain felt very tight when I put the master link back on. I turned the car off immediately, let it cool down and removed the valve cover to asses the damage.

Luckily the chain was still on and actually a touch loose. So I loosened the tensioner bolt ( turn) and rotated the engine hoping to get all the slack out of the chain and tightened the nut holding the tensioner. (I don't know any other way to tighten the chain)

Using Vin's method (rotor pointing to #1 and Pin pointing to line on crankshaft pulley) I have the engine at TDC. Cam shaft lobes are pointing outwards and piston is clearly visible with spark plugs out. The exhaust cam shaft lines up perfectly but the intake cam is about 5/16 of an inch past the timing mark on the Cam Journal.

2 questions:

Can I replace everything and start the car and fix the timing issue later without any real concern of damaging the valves or anything else or do I need to get the timing perfect first? Second, how do you suggest I fix the timing given that the intake cam is off?

Thanks for the help. I've been replacing the head gasket on my 91 automatic spider for about a month and am anxious to get it completed since I need a daily driver.

1991 White Automatic Spider Veloce
1991 Black Manual Spider Veloce
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post #69 of 113 (permalink) Old 04-16-2015, 03:24 PM
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5/16 is bending valve territory. What side is the cam mark on in relationship to the mark on the cap? If it's on the outside you might be ok To be on the safe side and it may be to late but it needs to be set right.

The passenger seat is 15 miles an hour faster than the drivers seat.

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71 Berlina in resto
the ones that got away:
1959 750 series Giulietta Spider Veloce
1962 Giulietta Spider normale
1965 Giulia Sprint normale
1972 GTV
1974 GTV
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post #70 of 113 (permalink) Old 04-16-2015, 03:36 PM
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Cam is to the left of the mark on the Journal. So i believe it"s passed the mark it. It sounded like a lot of metal on metal but I'm hoping that was the chain hitting the top of the valve cover. There is some marking there.

I haven't seen a definitive write up at setting the cam timing when exhaust cam is lined up but intake cam is off. Can I adjust the intake cam only? The adjustable nut is on the exhaust cam side.

How will I know if i bent the valves?
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post #71 of 113 (permalink) Old 04-16-2015, 04:12 PM
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Can i simply take the chain off and try to turn the intake cam? Is it that straight forward?
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post #72 of 113 (permalink) Old 04-16-2015, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Can i simply take the chain off and try to turn the intake cam? Is it that straight forward?
Yes, that is one way. I have done it that way before.

The other way is to use both a 50mm and 55mm wrench.

I would try to remove the chain if you don't have those wrenches.

Remember to stuff all open cavities so as not to lose any small parts down the engine.

It won't be easy to turn the camshaft, it takes a bit of force. So as not to damage the camshaft, I wrapped a section in leather and used locking pliers to turn.

You must correct the timing before driving the car. You have a VVT on the intake which advances the cam even further which will definitely bend valves.

Good luck,

Vin

1991 Spider Veloce - Red on Tan - Rosa Bionda
1987 Spider Quadrifoglio - Red on Grey - Rosa - Sold
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post #73 of 113 (permalink) Old 04-16-2015, 04:42 PM
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Thanks Vin. If I had access to 50 55mm wrenches, how would I move the intake cam?

I'd rather not take the chain off since I've had a difficult time getting it back on and tight.
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post #74 of 113 (permalink) Old 04-16-2015, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Vin. If I had access to 50 55mm wrenches, how would I move the intake cam?

I'd rather not take the chain off since I've had a difficult time getting it back on and tight.
Here is my adventure in engine rebuilding.

Vin's S4 Engine Rebuild

Start at post 204.

Good luck,

Vin

1991 Spider Veloce - Red on Tan - Rosa Bionda
1987 Spider Quadrifoglio - Red on Grey - Rosa - Sold
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post #75 of 113 (permalink) Old 04-16-2015, 06:23 PM
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You may need to remove and reposition the intake cam with respect to the chain to set timing. Since you are likely in "valve bending territory", you probably cannot move the cam without a valve hitting a piston. If you can't line up the marks with the chain on the sprocket, then you need the wrenches to loosen the sprocket and move the cam to the mark. There are other approaches. The important thing is to not do any (additional) damage.

Once you get the intake cam timing right, check compression. Very low compression indicates a bent valve. You can also look at the top of the pistons to see if there is a mark from valve contact.
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