Pull Engine to Replace Flywheel?

farklevill · #1 (**permalink**) 11-03-2009, 11:39 AM

Through the 10 years I have been blessed to own a '74 Spider (Giallo!), the biggest problem I have had is with the starters, German, of course! I've probably been though 5 solenoids or rebuilds. Unfortunately, I never picked up until too late about the different number of teeth on the flywheel ring gears. ( WARNING! BUY YOUR REPLACEMENT STARTERS AT KRAGEN OR AUTOZONE OR NAPA OR YOUR LOCAL REBUILDER AT YOUR OWN PERIL!!! They are not aware of the different applications for the various starters. You will likely get the wrong one, and will eventually be in the fix I am in now!).

Two starters ago I had a horrendus clang and crunch when I turned the ignition key...the car started, but there was a big cloud of grey dust that came out from under the car. Once I got the car home I saw that the nose of the starter had broken, with part having fallen into the flywheel/clutch compartment. I replaced the starter with a nice looking model I bought at Kragen...looked brand new, hooked up easily, and ran well for about 6 months, and here we go again...horrendous sound when trying to start, and it just won't start again. I haven't gotten a chance to pull this starter and get a look at the starter ring or the flywheel, but am assuming the worst, that I will need to pull the thing out. So, here's my question...can I reasonably get the flywheel off and a new one back on without pulling the transmission? Is it better to just pull the whole engine/transmission assembly out all at once and do the work on the bench? One of my old Haynes guides says you can loosen the engine mounts and push the motor forward enough to get the flywheel out. What say the experts on this board?

Thanks!

Scott (aka Farklevill)
'74 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce; Giallo

**Gordon Raymond** · #2 (**permalink**) 11-03-2009, 12:40 PM

Forget it. The easiest way to replace a flywheel is to leave the engine in the car and pull the transmission. This leaves plenty of working room to address flywheel issues, and is less troublesome than pulling the engine, or engine and transmission. Just my opinion.

farklevill · #3 (**permalink**) 11-03-2009, 01:05 PM

Thanks, Gordon. That is what I intended to do, but was warned about the difficulty of putting the transmission back in. Some other threads said it was easier to pull both engine and transmission, but that seems like a bigger production, plus I'd have to beg/borrow/steal an engine crane.
Thanks again!

**alfaparticle** · #4 (**permalink**) 11-03-2009, 01:18 PM

I agree with Gordon - drop the transmission. I find that the trickiest job is getting the two bolts in at the top of the bellhousing.

You need to have the engine up at the front and low at the back when you put the gearbox in. A transmission jack will make life easier. Put the box in gear and slowly turn the output yoke as you push the input shaft into the clutch plate until you feel the splines engage.

**Graham D** · #5 (**permalink**) 11-03-2009, 01:34 PM

You will find useful: Transmission scissor jack #39178-OVGA from Harbor Freight Tools (nfi), clutch driven disk centering tool, 3' x 3/8" drive extension, wobble or swivel attachment with 15mm socket for one fastener only but, boy does it help! I was fortunate to be able to borrow the jack but it's usually available 'on sale' for about $55.00. While at it, you should consider replacing the seals at the rear of the crank and both on the transmission.

**conedriver** · #6 (**permalink**) 11-03-2009, 02:41 PM

I second the recommendation for the Harbor Freight transmission jack; I used one this year and it made the process very easy. At age 71, I barely have the upper body strength to lay under the car, rest the transmission on my chest, lift it into place, and secure a bolt to assure the weight doesn't hang on the input shaft.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham D

You will find useful: Transmission scissor jack #39178-OVGA from Harbor Freight Tools (nfi), clutch driven disk centering tool, 3' x 3/8" drive extension, wobble or swivel attachment with 15mm socket for one fastener only but, boy does it help! I was fortunate to be able to borrow the jack but it's usually available 'on sale' for about $55.00. While at it, you should consider replacing the seals at the rear of the crank and both on the transmission.

farklevill · #7 (**permalink**) 11-03-2009, 03:27 PM

Thank you, gents! I'm off to gather some tools. I've got the seals on order...figured while I'm in there I may as well do everything I can. While I'm in there, how big of a deal is it to replace the clutch?

**alfaparticle** · #8 (**permalink**) 11-03-2009, 03:40 PM

You have to remove the clutch to remove the flywheel.

**SpiderWebb** · #9 (**permalink**) 11-03-2009, 04:11 PM

I agree the transmission pull is the easiest way.

Here is my thread dealing with my flywheel and transmission.
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spid...el-weight.html

You pull the exhaust, starter, driveshaft and transmission. You need to pull the clutch and pressure plate to get at the flywheel.

Here is an image of the bolt holes for the transmission. It can be confusing, but this photo should help.

Have fun!

**flivesay** · #10 (**permalink**) 11-03-2009, 04:23 PM

Don't forget to use a shoulder bolt in the center starter bolt whole. If you don't have one now, could be the root cause of the starter failures.

farklevill · #11 (**permalink**) 11-03-2009, 04:48 PM

Thanks for all the great info, particularly the photo, so well labeled! This is looking to be a big job, removing the exhuast, drive shaft, tranny, clutch...just for laughs, I think I'll make sure that shoulder bolt made it to that middle mounting hole. I did once make that mistake, and indeed horrendous noise was the result. But, I'm pretty sure I've got that right, particularly since this last starter worked great from day one, and is now 6 or so months later, before this current episode of clanging and banging. But, it would be great if I had just made a stupid mistake, and moving the shoulder bolt fixed everything...I'll let you all know. I can handle being humbled!
Thanks again...keep it coming...

Scott

**Graham D** · #12 (**permalink**) 11-03-2009, 05:29 PM

And, if my eyes do not deceive me, the photo in post #9 shows the transmission resting upon the aforementioned scissor jack.

**SpiderWebb** · #13 (**permalink**) 11-03-2009, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham D

And, if my eyes do not deceive me, the photo in post #9 shows the transmission resting upon the aforementioned scissor jack.

Ianc · #14 (**permalink**) 11-03-2009, 06:23 PM

DO NOT use the studs to brace the flywheel whilst removing the clutch bolts. AMHIK.

**SpiderWebb** · #15 (**permalink**) 11-03-2009, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ianc

DO NOT use the studs to brace the flywheel whilst removing the clutch bolts. AMHIK.