Pull Engine to Replace Flywheel? - Page 2

**jarrington** · #16 (**permalink**) 11-03-2009, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpiderWebb

There are special tools to stop the flywheel from spinning while loosening and tightening the flywheel and pressure plate. I was in a hurry and improvised. It worked for me. But your mileage may vary. I could see if you bent one of the engine block studs it would be a real pain to repair. The problem is, those special tools also use the studs or a bolt in the block. Spread the torque around as evenly as possible and use liquid wrench to help things along.

Mound Dawg · #17 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 01:21 AM

I use a 6mm allen key through one of the top transmission mount holes on the engine. Let the tail drop onto the teeth of the flywheel and it'll lock it solid. No special tools required!

I can't see how bending the gearbox mounting studs would be difficult to repair either,

1. You can buy them new

2. They come out really easily. I take them out and put them back in all the time!

**Tifosi** · #18 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 05:33 AM

If you really, really had to for lack of any other means, you could remove #4 spark plug, and with the engine on the compression stroke for that cylinder, (you know, so both valves are fully closed), run a length of cloth clothesline down into the cylinder then roll the engine til the clothesline wadded up between the combustion chamber and piston crown.

**alfaparticle** · #19 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 05:38 AM

Here is the VW tool that works. It costs $8.95.

Universal Flywheel Lock Chirco Performance & Restoration

**Gordon Raymond** · #20 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 09:52 AM

Contact Don Brubaker, Illinois local chapter AROC past president for an original Alfa tool. 847-550-8915.

**SpiderWebb** · #21 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 02:37 PM

Wow! Save this thread, if only for the flywheel hold data. alfabb.com is great.

slyalfa · #22 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 05:08 PM

the starter you need is the smaller one for 1972-1974 and the 90-on (motronic)
the best one is the new type use on the 90-on motronic 0 001 108 0011 but almost imposable to find.
the 0 001 108 024 is for 1975-1989
I got this one and had a custom 10 tooth bendex put on and it works great.

the old type starter for 72-74 is .7Kw starter 000 121 1987
The ring gear on the flywheel had 130 teeth

the 75-89 use 131 teeth as well as a slightly larger (+1 cm) diameter

**tom shewchuk** · #23 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 08:14 PM

I got a tip from a friend of who I should have called before I pulled my trans to replace the throw out bearing. Unbolt the exhaust at the back of the car so it rests on the rear axle. It's enough weight to lift the front of the motor so you can clear the lip on the firewall with the bellhousing. Check your front,and rear transmission seals. You've got it out. You don't want to have to do it again to replace a $6 part.

Mound Dawg · #24 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 01:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slyalfa

the best one is the new type use on the 90-on motronic 0 001 108 0011 but almost imposable to find.

farklevill · #25 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 11:01 PM

Once again, thanks to all for all the great information. I bought the transmission lift at Harbor (I've never been in a Harbor store...this discovery is going to cost me big time; what a great man tool store!). Parts are in the UPS delivery system, and should arrive in time for the weekend. Sadly, my bride will be out of town...it will just be me, my tools and my spider; does it get any better than that? (Probably not for me!!!). I have to admit, I feel a bit like a nervous groom, not totally sure what to expect when I remove the tranny from that curvaceous bell housing...man, should I film the operation for youporn?
(yeah, guys, pretend you don't know!)

**Tifosi** · #26 (**permalink**) 11-06-2009, 03:21 AM

You'll think it's sexy like that, right up until you discover what a fat heavy pig she can be while humping her out the side or toting her to the bench for cleanup while she's out. (being the dirty girl that she most likely is)

At least you got a jack and likely won't know just how heavy she can get while trying to press her off your chest.

Still, you will sweat.

**ghnl** · #27 (**permalink**) 11-06-2009, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by farklevill

it will just be me, my tools and my spider...

**Graham D** · #28 (**permalink**) 11-06-2009, 07:24 AM

...does it get any better than that?...

No, it doesn't. Do take extra care undoing the drive shaft coupling nuts and bolts as they, like the starter shoulder bolt are not hardware store items though replacements can be sourced from BB members and aftermarket suppliers such as IAP, etc.
Guys with tools working on cars; male bonding. Have a good time!

farklevill · #29 (**permalink**) 11-06-2009, 12:39 PM

Thanks for the reminder about the shoulder bolt...that's the first order of business, to make sure I installed it in the correct place last time! That would make for so much simpler a repair, to forget all this flywheel/clutch/etc., etc., and to simply place the shoulder bolt in the correct spot. Much humiliation, but a lot less work. I'm curious, though...how does that shoulder bolt make a difference (as I know it does!)?

Ianc · #30 (**permalink**) 11-06-2009, 12:55 PM

It actually locates the starter correctly. I guess that Alfa figured it would be easier to install the starter if the hole was oversize, and then locate it accurately by a shouldered bolt. If the bolt holes were exactly right for threaded bolts, you'd have a tough time getting the bolts in without buggering the threads.