
11-14-2009, 10:00 AM
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Location: Seaville, NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whatsitallabout
Oh Jee whize, you would give me that much? what a pal but I just got new tires for it and payed $400 for them. 
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I get so jealous every time I open this thread... IMO you have everything there for a great car already... ONE RUST SPOT?!?! Now I'm really jealous... Do yourself a favor, and get some of that Eastwood rust eliminator stuff and hit unseen rust prone areas (Wheel well, inside of that hole before you patch it, floorboards, etc.). I've had really good results with it... Be sure to post progress picks of how this car turns out...
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'83 Spider Veloce
'85 Jeep CJ-7
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11-16-2009, 08:51 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Eastern Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davy13
I get so jealous every time I open this thread... IMO you have everything there for a great car already... ONE RUST SPOT?!?! Now I'm really jealous... Do yourself a favor, and get some of that Eastwood rust eliminator stuff and hit unseen rust prone areas (Wheel well, inside of that hole before you patch it, floorboards, etc.). I've had really good results with it... Be sure to post progress picks of how this car turns out...
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Well to sooth your jealousy I just took a compression test and got #1 25lb
#2 165lb #3 135lb and #4 150lb I think I have a stuck valve, any seggestions?
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11-18-2009, 08:15 AM
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Well if anyone is fowling my project you know that I have a low cylender, well its the exhaust valve now I have to remove that cam and see if I can free up a stuck (I hope) valve. Has anyone got any input on doing this?
Chuck
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11-20-2009, 05:10 PM
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Well I just got the head off, you know that dead rat I found under the hood? well I know what he was eating, there is a bite taken out of the exhaust valve. :-0
Anyway now I know why I didn't have compression on #1 cylinder. Now I have to get a new valve but untell I receve my shop manual, Just how are the valves adjusted? And what would cause the engine to burn a valve? Maybe low octaine gas?
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11-20-2009, 05:45 PM
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Location: Herndon VA, USA
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Valves are adjusted with shims that fit over the end of the valve stem, you put the tappet bucket on top of them. It's a big hairy deal getting it right, lots of re-fitting the cams, putting the clamshells on and taking them off. The exhaust valves have pure sodium in them, I can't say I've ever heard of a burned one, but I guess anything's possible.
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1971 1750 Spider, 1988 Milano Verde
Alfa Romeo Spider FAQ Author
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11-21-2009, 01:55 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Someplace in Oregon helping to make the world just a little bit safer
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burnt valve
many things can cause a burnt valve
overheating
the valve not closing tight, this is where the exh. valve gets its cooling. from contact with the seat/head. if sticking open for any reason the valve doesn't get to cool and can overheat and erode, split or fracture a piece off.
most of the cooling of an exhaust valve is through physical contact with the seat and the rest is up the stem and out the guides. Sodium filled valves enhance this up the stem cooling by drawing more of the heat in the valve head away.
So anything that interferes with the cooling process can lead to overheating and failure including bad timing, lean mixtures, vacuum leak causing one cylinder to run lean, pre-ignition, clogged catalytic converter
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11-21-2009, 05:19 PM
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Thanks for the info, I pulled the valve and it is indeed burned I have a picture and hope that I can attach it here, never done it before, as you see it's a mess the other ones are fine.
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11-21-2009, 05:24 PM
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Darth Ambiguous
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Northern NY, USA
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Wow..... that's naaaaasteeee.
Looks like it hasn't closed in a decade or more.
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11-21-2009, 06:01 PM
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Well, dang, dude, there's you're problem...
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1971 1750 Spider, 1988 Milano Verde
Alfa Romeo Spider FAQ Author
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11-22-2009, 04:23 PM
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That is true that it's been a decade sence it closed but remember it sat untouched for 7 years and that's good otherwise there might not be a seat and just a nub for a valve.
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12-01-2009, 07:48 PM
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Need a little help, I am installing new valve stem seals, so far I have been able to get two on and I have wrecked one and the other one isn't cooperating and wants to go no crooked. Is there a trick or special tool to install them?
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12-03-2009, 06:33 AM
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Location: Someplace in Oregon helping to make the world just a little bit safer
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valve stem seal installation
generous amount of lube
slide over valve
push/tap into place with appropriate sized piece of tubing or deep socket and rubber mallet
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12-03-2009, 02:26 PM
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I did all of that and stilled screwed up two.
So while weighting for more parts to get here I lifted the floor mats, ugh, driver side looks ugly (see photo) right side is still sound. Like most old cars the more you look the more you find.
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12-04-2009, 06:31 AM
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Darth Ambiguous
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Northern NY, USA
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Them ain't holes, them's part of the winterization package.
You know.... foot warmers that use radiant heat from the exhaust
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12-04-2009, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tifosi
Them ain't holes, them's part of the winterization package.
You know.... foot warmers that use radiant heat from the exhaust 
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them's are mouse exit routes .
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Loud pipes save lives.
1973 GTV - bought 3/06, intend to keep forever
1969 GTV, #AR1530021 - sold 10/72, guess didn't intend to keep forever
Current project: '69 Corvette bought in '73, DD '73 - '80, in storage 1989-2002, now apart
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