Starter Button instead of key

[SamW]

OK, someone asked me for a detailed "how to" on the starter button to by pass a starter switch that is going bad on the ignition switch. If you have a good wiring kit, the rest can be had for about $20, depending on how nice a starter button you want. I went for one of the $5 buttons, but they had a nice sealed one for $10 and an all in one (key included, insert the key in the button itself) for $20. All this was at Advanced Auto Parts, I also picked up some 10 gauge wire, tried to keep the colors the same, but no brown, so I went with blue, both start with "b."

I had two options, I could have wired it so that the starter button only worked when the key was on, but I opted away from this because I thought it would put more stress on the key switch. So, the button will work whether the key is switched on or not.

The first picture is of all the wire cut and laid out with the three wire connector in the middle, this is both sides seperated, both sides are needed to make this a plug and play type deal. You can also see the starter button and a "splitter" for the 12v constant side of the connection.

[SamW]

In this second picture you can see all the wires laid out in the general direction they will go when it is assembled. I had to split the red wire (12v constant) because it was need to go to the exisiting ignition switch to supply 12v to the blue/brown wire when they key is turned on, it is also needed to go to the starter button to supply 12v to the starter solenoid and ecu ot turn the starter motor over. I could have just tried to wire the red wires together, but 2 10 gauge wires in the same connector would have overpowered my crimper.

The black wire is the the wire that goes to the starter switch and the ecu (there should be a purple/violet wire connected to the black wire on the three wire connector opposite the key three wire connector.
The blue/brown wire is the switched 12v wire that supplied power to everything that turns on once the key is turned on.
The red wire is the 12v constant, it always has 12v, well, as long as the battery has 12 volts...

[SamW]

Just plug everything in...

Well, plug it in the right spots. The key 3 wire connector has the male ends, so you need to make sure the female ends go to it, red to red and blue to brown, the black wire does not need to go to the key since it will go to the new starter button. On the side that goes to the other side of the three wire connector, make sure they all go to the same spot as on the key three wire connector. You should have all three color wires going to this connector. Hook the red and black wires up to the starter button.

You will notice the splitter I used for the red wires, this is just easier to do this way...

[SamW]

When it is all said and done it should look something like this. Just go under the dash and unplug the three wire connector from the switch and plug this in and find a good spot to mount the button, just don't kick it when you are getting out of your car and left it in gear...

[alfasrule]

All you gotta do is put in a relay between the start wire and the starter. The switch will only draw < 1 Amp and will never short. I've done this on a lot of cars and it works fine.
The relay fits fine under the plastic cover of the steering column. Don't need to cut a hole in your dash for another switch.

[Tifosi]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SamW just don't kick it when you are getting out of your car and left it in gear...

[SamW]

The original key still works the on/off, you just get a little kick from the starter turning over.

The relay is good, I have that installed also in my car, but the problem with the series 3 Spiders is that you still need 10.5v while the starter motor is engaged in order to get the ignition ecu to turn on, so if your switch gets bad enough not to turn the starter motor over, it will eventually get bad enough not to switch on the ignition ECU. I did a little experiment with my relay, my volt to the ignition ecu was 10.89 with the relay and 10.55 without the relay, so you only pick up less than half a volt with the relay.

This is just a how to for a tool so people can quickly determin if the ignition switch is going out.

[Tifosi]

That's hip

[RayKiszely]

I have a good ignition wiring and key set for an '85 an '80 which is essentially the same and a 1979 which is very different if you choose not to be that creative.

[Stevew]

Yo SamW:

Thanks for making time to fully document your cars conversion from key to push button start. Wish yours had failed last year before mine went out...I could have benefited from your efforts. I must have had a more substantial failure, since I ended up with the key only unlocking the steering...everything else comes on with my new switch. A simple lighted toggle and seperate push button from Radio Shack worked for me and I just tucked the wires up behind the fuse box cover. Searched in vain for a good mounting location and short of fabbing a small panel, my approach works.

Considering traffic levels on the BB, I'm surprised at the low number of views of your post. The switch on my '87 QV started acting up at about 105k, and although I don't recall how the problem presented, my recollection is that the switch was not the primary suspect and it was only later that the source of my intermittant "no electrics/no crank" became apparent. I'm sure you added a few tags to your post for the benefit of folks seeking this info in the future. For those yet to experience switch failure, I'm thinking it's not a matter of if, but when.

Thanks again!

Cheers

[Tifosi]

SamW could put a link up in the FAQ if he wanted to

Y'know an alternative use for the button might be handy underhood 'bump the engine' switch too with a small amount of finangling and/or rerouting of wires. (pulling on the fan works, as does shoving the cvar around, but both methods suck on so many different levels)

[Stevew]

Tifosi:

Interesting alternative use for the "start only" button. My '87 Toyota PU has a dash button that bypasses the "clutch in to crank" switch and lets me use the starter to move the truck without running the engine. Used it once or twice to bump the truck out of a bad spot while in 4WD, low range, 1st gear. The starter pulled me out!! You had to be there. Hate to think of situation where I had to move the Alfa that way...would be fun to speculate.

SamW...getteth thee to the FAQ's!! We're not going to be the first who decided against the hassle of replacing the ignition switch. Plus it's an elegant solution...no duct tape involved.

Cheers

[slyalfa]

when the test servo went bad in my modified spica
I have the new type of gear reduced starter. and I ran the spider up a steep drive way with it. even in 1st is was spinning almost too fast. I do not think I could have moved the car with the old starter it had a hard time just turning over the motor. but the new types have a ton of power to spare I think it even skidded the tires when I turned the key.
I guess I should have used the clutch at the same time.

[bianchi1]

..i just did sort of the same thing,, the key switch was a little loose, so on some bumps the car would shut off, so i just got a really cool rocker switch, very flush to the steering cover, mounted it underneath, you cannot see it, just hit the roocker switch, this turns on the car, the key starts the car..

[SamW]

All great ideas! How do I link it to the FAQ? Maybe I should put my starter relay post from way back on the too...

I wish I would have thought about that, when mine started giving me serious ignition issues, it sat on the road infront of the house for a couple of days until we towed it up my driveway (yes, I have a STEEP driveway). If I put longer wires to the starter button, you could also use it when checking valve clearance, beats jacking up the back wheel and spinning it... Seriously, if you can get to your three wire connector under the dash, it takes all of 10 seconds to plug it in!