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Old 06-27-2009, 10:05 AM
Robusie Robusie is offline
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Problem persists. I replaced the pressure regulator, (after much sweating and trouble with the frozen mounting bolt), and we still die. I guess I won't be going for that Patent on my monkey'd up fuel pressure tester contraption of hoses and compression tester.

One new, key bit of information - The car runs as long as the starter is turning. If I keep the key in the "start" position after the car starts, (only for a little bit), it will idle or Rev.

How would I go about checking the ignition signal to the ECU?
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Old 06-27-2009, 11:46 AM
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ghnl ghnl is offline
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The drive relay is bypassed by a 'start' signal during cranking. After the engine starts the tachymetric signal from the coil to the drive relay is supposed to take over & keep the fuel pumps & main realy powered on.

I'd suspect a faulty drive relay &/or faulty input signal &/or faulty output. Check all relay connections then consider replacing the drive relay.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2009, 02:54 PM
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hattie102 hattie102 is offline
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Can anybody get in on this topic? I recently replaced the head gasket and had the head done on my 84 Spider. It's now reassembled and I started it up this morning after several topic checks on the BB. It ran fine until it came up to operating temperature and then started running roughly so I switched it off. I restarted it a few minutes later and it ran roughly for a few seconds and then died. I let it cool off completely and tried to start again - now it does the run for 5-7 seconds (poorly) and then dies. I can smell fuel in the garage so I'm assuming that the engine is getting too much fuel or not enough air.

So why did it run beautifully this morning until it got hot and now it runs poorly? My theory is I celebrated having two running Alfas and the Spider heard me. Damn it.
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Old 06-27-2009, 04:09 PM
aggie06G-pa aggie06G-pa is offline
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Hey Hattie--Wait for ghnl to respond--him know mucho.
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Old 06-27-2009, 07:35 PM
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Well, I ain't figuring out this one...
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Old 06-27-2009, 08:13 PM
Robusie Robusie is offline
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If it ran fine until it came up to temperature, I would suspect that the thermal expansion opened up a leak. Recheck all the Fuel Injection hoses and verify the torque on the head & manifold bolts.
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Old 06-27-2009, 09:03 PM
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Will do. I've tried to do the L-Jet research but am not handy with an ohm meter and have somewhat limited skills. I was poking around the ECU unit behind the seat and replaced an 8 fuse and cleaned a few contacts while I was there. Not sure if it's related but now the engine will maintain idle for about 30-45 seconds before dying. It used to die after 5-7 seconds. I took off the brand-new spark plugs and #3 & #4 have some black on them but #1 & #2 are fairly clean and smelled like gas (not antifreeze). No antifreeze on the dipstick either. I'm going to start a new thread since I've poached on someone else's issues here.
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Old 06-30-2009, 08:07 PM
Robusie Robusie is offline
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Still no joy - Replaced Pressure regulator, no change. Jumpered out fuel pump relaly, no change.

Today I changed the fuel filter, (even though last one had on about 1000 miles on it), and filled the tank from a gas can.

I have noticed some improvement, she will run for almost 5 seconds now, up from 3 seconds. Both pumps whirr, but maybe low pressure?

My next step is likely to order another main fuel pump.
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Old 06-30-2009, 10:49 PM
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Tifosi Tifosi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robusie View Post
Both pumps whirr, but maybe low pressure?....My next step is likely to order another main fuel pump.
Why? Or at least why before even testing pressure?

If they whir, then connecting a pressure gauge to the rail and bumping the key on and off a few times, or trying to crank should give a reasonable semblance of what pressure is being put out.

My 2 cents say take that 'mabe' out of the fuel pressure question 1st before possibly needlessly throwing the serious money a main pump costs at it only to be no better off, just poorer.
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Old 07-01-2009, 05:24 AM
Robusie Robusie is offline
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I don't have a pressure tester. I tried to make due with a compression tester and that send me in circles.

The tester seems to cost half or more than a new pump and I am anxious to get it running again. Was hoping there might be a suggestion from someone on how to verify / discount my issue.
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Old 07-01-2009, 05:50 AM
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I have a fuel pressure gauge I can lend you.
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:05 AM
aggie06G-pa aggie06G-pa is offline
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Hey man--get a copper T and a few short (2 in) pieces of fuel hoses and go to ANY auto/plumbing or ACE hardware store and get a guage (reads pressure up to 50-60psi).
and you're in. It is the simplest test you can make. Do it!!
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2009, 06:45 PM
Robusie Robusie is offline
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Fuel pressure test shows good pressure, 36-40 PSI. This is driving me nuts! Just for fun, I pinched the return line to get the pressure up above 40 and still died in a couple of seconds.

Since this problem came on suddenly, I don't think that I can blame the injectors. I don't know what else it could be.
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Old 07-02-2009, 07:29 PM
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ghnl ghnl is offline
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I pinched the return line to get the pressure up above 40 and still died in a couple of seconds.
Did the fuel pressure remain steady as it died or did the pressure drop & then it died?

Do you have a timing light? Connect it and see if the light stops flashing as it it dies or if it keeps flashing until it stops running.
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2009, 10:56 PM
Robusie Robusie is offline
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Fuel pressure never dropped below 35 psi. Still stalled with return hose pinched keeping pressure over 40 psi.

Did the timing light test. Keeps flashing, good spark. Main Injectors don't seem to be firing right. Only thing, (I think), I haven't tested is holding the flap of the AFM open. I did try disconnecting AFM, no change. Also flap moves easily by hand.
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