Engine swap. Any tips on reinstall?

[peterlund]

Ok. Pulled the dead engine from my newly acquired 89 spider. Not worth a rebuild, but I do have a nice free spinning engine that I took form an 83 that I am planning on using. I dont want to go into anything crazy money-wise, but are there any tips or tricks or suggestions before I lower the new block into the car? I have checked the clutch and I will make sure all the hoses etc are OK, mounts are to be changed. Tips on aligning the clutch splines will also be helpful. I will have beer and bandages handy, so I have the obvious covered.
Thanks!

[gprocket]

Were it me, I would pull the transmission and assemble it to the motor and then reinstall it as a unit. I'm sure it can be done but I tried once to get the splines aligned and finally gave up.

Either way, just go slow, have a couple of spotters so you don't whack the fender and hopefully everything is marked on both motors so it's a simple matter of reattaching all the wires...

Good luck!

[conedriver]

Peter,

IAP has a clutch alignment tool for $2.95. This is hard plastic with splines, and is inserted in the crankshaft pilot hole before the pressure plate is tightened to the flywheel. Once this is done, don't leave the alighment tool in place and grab it to move the engine around. You can move the clutch disc slightly out of alignment, and you won't realize this until you try to attach the transmission (ask me how I know).

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterlund Ok. Pulled the dead engine from my newly acquired 89 spider. Not worth a rebuild, but I do have a nice free spinning engine that I took form an 83 that I am planning on using. I dont want to go into anything crazy money-wise, but are there any tips or tricks or suggestions before I lower the new block into the car? I have checked the clutch and I will make sure all the hoses etc are OK, mounts are to be changed. Tips on aligning the clutch splines will also be helpful. I will have beer and bandages handy, so I have the obvious covered. Thanks!

[ghnl]

You do realize that the '83 motor will have the centrifugal VVT vs the solenoid VVT from the '89.

[peterlund]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghnl You do realize that the '83 motor will have the centrifugal VVT vs the solenoid VVT from the '89.

[peterlund]

Quote:

Originally Posted by conedriver Peter, IAP has a clutch alignment tool for $2.95. This is hard plastic with splines, and is inserted in the crankshaft pilot hole before the pressure plate is tightened to the flywheel. Once this is done, don't leave the alighment tool in place and grab it to move the engine around. You can move the clutch disc slightly out of alignment, and you won't realize this until you try to attach the transmission (ask me how I know).

[ghnl]

The VVT changed in ~ '84 or '85.

No need to change the head. Use the '89's cam cover, swap the intake cams & plug-n-play. Well, first you should check/adjust the valve clearances.

[Slash]

One other little detail comes to mind, Peter: The small drain tube from the oil vapor separator went to a nipple on the lower passenger side of the block in your '89. On the '83, I believe that the drain tube attaches to the dipstick.

[BattleBug]

Peter, I wouldn't bother with the VVT swap--just use the centrifugal VVT cam and be happy you've eliminated that ugly wart on your cam cover. You can disconnect the VVT solenoid lead at the harness on the right inner fender.

IF you DO decide to swap cams, be sure to use the tappets from the 89 with the cam from the 89, provided they are healthy.


(Oh, and then I might want to buy your cam cover)