#16 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2009, 04:56 AM
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I like the more expansive view provided by not gluing them on AGAIN. Also leave the doors unlocked with the windows partly down unless it's raining to avoid the slashed top/broken window fun.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2009, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tifosi View Post
... and in fact would allow one to actually pull the wing shut with the handle as opposed to the current method of rolling down the main window to allow pressing the wing shut from the outside for fear of reefing the latch off for the umpteenth time.
You do all that? Why not just press the inside bottom front corner of the vent window? My vent windows open and close nicely, but I also make a point of opening and closing them regulalry, and keeping them latch-closed throughout the winter. They are nice and tight, and even without the latch being closed they stay against the gasket, and I don't get any wind noise...

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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2009, 11:07 PM
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I'm with Enrique here. Learned my lesson many years ago the hard way with my first car, an old Volvo 142 with glued vent windows as well as glued spring loaded, swing out rear windows. The glue on my Swedish vent windows let loose and were trouble forever. My friends 142 lost it's rear side window assembly, the entire window, when the glue let go as he was driving. Imagine stopping to go pick up your rear side window by the side of the road. From that point on I never opened the rear windows. By the early 70's Volvo had learned that the screw through was better than glue. I keep my 87 Spider vent windows closed but not locked, so there is no stress on them. I open/close them by pushing the glass. It is a PITA to try to get everything glued back should the glue fail, so the longer you can keep it as it left the factory, the better.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 11-14-2009, 06:35 PM
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Home application that worked

I had to try a few glues and preps until I succeeded, but what finally worked was, scraping old adhesive residue with a flat edge razor (as stated earlier) then wiping both glass and latch thoroughly with Goof Off, followed by a SINGLE DROP of loctite glass glue (see pic) on the latch surface then mate to glass fast in unlatched position--hold for a minute or so. I did not touch it for a week thereafter. After so many failures, I was surprised that it held, but it's solid under what feels like a lot of pressure and manipulation.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2009, 08:43 AM
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AHA! That's the trick!

'Dishwasher safe' also means 'water proof' to some degree or another. Or am I the only one who's occasionally had water get on/around the latch?
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2009, 02:40 PM
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I used Dynagrip, worked OK and it still on, also the window has a lot of pressure as the 1/4 window has a new rubber seal.

Some advise, before you remove the old glue with a new very sharp scraper, draw or use some tape to mark the opposite side of the window the exact position of the existing glue, so that when you remove the glue you know exactly where to position the handle. Also have the handle in the open position and make sure you glue it to the window in the open position.

Both my handle are new and only had the old glue as a guide, hence all the markings on the windows.
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Last edited by Rich; 11-16-2009 at 02:44 PM.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2009, 03:14 PM
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The black Monster duct tape works really well and is realatively cheap.
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Last edited by RC Hiatt; 11-16-2009 at 03:19 PM. Reason: It also doubles as a top repair, sunvisor and glovebox latch fix, not to mention the shift boot dressing
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