Clutch replacement

[TSuppa]

I posted this in transmission forum but got no response so I thought I would try here:

I am getting ready to remove trans and replace clutch in my 86 quad. IAP sells 2 clutch kits OE for $209 and a sachs for $267. Any suggestions on which one I should get.

The reason for the clutch replacement: I noticed that I am getting grinding going into reverse especially and other gears less often than reverse. I attemped to bleed system today and discovered that reservoir was empty(suspect slave cylinder bad) noticed fresh oil coming from weep hole located on bottom front of bellhousing (main seal or input shaft seal?)..Also during launch in 1st gear the car bucks excessively suspect contaminate(oil) on clutch disc.

Does my diagnosis sound reasonable, or have I missed something?
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[Tifosi]

Sachs clutch fur sur, then there's no question you're getting a good one.

Oil contamination usually results in slippage, not bucking. (it's not 'impossible' for it to buck, just 'improbable')

Still, while it's gonna be all apart anyway, nab yourself a rear main and front trans seal so you can ease your mind about further potential problems along that line. Throw in clutch soft line with the slave cylinder while you're at it.

Might not hurt to get a giubo too as a damaged one can cause some funny problems, along with some not so funny ones (EG: driveshaft coming through the floor to eat your leg...)


Query:

Does the bucking/jerking occur at the bottom of every gear, or mabe just 1st, Rev, and possibly 2nd? (you might just have a engine tune issue if so)

[TSuppa]

I thought the bucking was just in first. But this morning when I was attempting to diagnose the problem I took it for a test drive. When I launched hard similar to an autocross start it would buck hard in 1st, and still a little in 2nd but gone as I reved thru 2nd and above. As I said there was oil weeping out of the hole in front of bell housing. I assume this indicates a bad seal (either main or input shaft)

[Tifosi]

That particular spot can sometimes fool you.

EG: you might have a leak at the back of the cam cover or front of the engine, but the way the air flows underneath, it seems to want to pool and drip from that area.

T'wouldn't hurt to pull the inspection cover and see how wet it is inside the bell housing and engine side of the flywheel. (I'd still change the seals regardless as long as it was apart and you've no idea when/if they'd ever been done before, 'cause sure a ****, you'll do the clutch and two weeks later a seal will fail and you'll be right back at it again)

[Elio Comello]

You should also consider replacing the throwout bearing and of course the transmission support bushing.

TTFN Elio

[Tifosi]

Excellent point.

Oh, TSuppa, don't forget to get them flywheel sensors well out of the way when doing the work. (like over there, on the bench, in a box, wrapped in rags)

They have a way of being in the very best spots to be destroyed if left hanging by thier harnesses, and even just banging them on somehting is likely to cause damage.

[gadwhite]

I did a replacement using the IAP OE clutch and pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bearing.. I replaced the trans support bushing with the poly bushings, and also replaced the driveshaft u-joints. So far everything is good after 1000 miles. Thread here
Prior to this I had replaced my, pivot arm clutch master cyl, slave cyl and flex line. The begining of the thread above has a link to my trials and tribulations with the hydraulics.

Good luck

[t7389sg]

I used the sachs parts. It was not as hard as I thought it would be. I followed the advice from the post Gadwhite refers to and it all turned out OK. Everything you need to know about renewing the clutch is in that thread. I would not want to do it for a living but this is something you can do. Good luck. Steve G

[TSuppa]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tifosi Sachs clutch fur sur, then there's no question you're getting a good one. Oil contamination usually results in slippage, not bucking. (it's not 'impossible' for it to buck, just 'improbable') Still, while it's gonna be all apart anyway, nab yourself a rear main and front trans seal so you can ease your mind about further potential problems along that line. Throw in clutch soft line with the slave cylinder while you're at it. Might not hurt to get a giubo too as a damaged one can cause some funny problems, along with some not so funny ones (EG: driveshaft coming through the floor to eat your leg...) Query: Does the bucking/jerking occur at the bottom of every gear, or mabe just 1st, Rev, and possibly 2nd? (you might just have a engine tune issue if so)

[Tifosi]

Dunno about genious, but I do have occasional moments of razor sharp clarity (or mabe it's just the hallucinations from all the inhalents out in the garage )

Great it was something relatively easy for you to to find and reconcile.

[ga_mtn_spider]

While different clutch brands are being kicked around, has anyone had any experience with a LuK brand? Thanks Skip

[gadwhite]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TSuppa Darren you are a genius. I bled the clutch today and went for a test drive. It no longer grinds going into any gear, but the bucking upon launch was still awful. I turned around to go home and it bucked again in first and died. It would not stay running except at a very rough idle. Opened hood and found the large hose from the MAS to the intake had come off. Replaced hose and car is 100%. Thank you very much, you saved me much money time and many busted knuckles.