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Old 08-05-2008, 08:00 AM
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lowmileage lowmileage is offline
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Originally Posted by dmarland View Post
Has anyone ever heard of Schaeffer brand
What I drank in the '60's. Don't know if it's the same stuff nowadays though.
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Tifosi View Post
STP ends up like a comnglomerated mess of molasses and roofing tar cold patch all over everything by the time it's done 'settling in'.

Makes everything about as sticky gummy too.

Are you just talking about the "Blue?" What about the Red. I've started using the Red to supplement the zinc level. The Red is about half the thickness of the Blue. 1 15oz. bottle to 5 qts oil ratio.
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:36 AM
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The blue I imagine.

Or at least that's the color the can was forever ago when I was exposed to it and its 'results'.
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Old 08-05-2008, 09:52 AM
dmarland dmarland is offline
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Originally Posted by lowmileage View Post
What I drank in the '60's. Don't know if it's the same stuff nowadays though.
It might taste the same as the oil I am referring to!!
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Old 08-05-2008, 09:53 AM
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:53 PM
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Wink

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Originally Posted by BradH View Post
What Oil Weight do you run in your Alfa? I am considering going to a fixed weight oil like 30wt and am wondering if anyone else had done the same?

I have a 73 Spider that has a few miles on the engine (probably original) and has some valve noise (nothing major). I had a mechanic once switch a pickup of mine to strait 30wt to quiet down some valve noise caused by worn valve guides. I am wondering if that would be a possibility for an Alfa? Or is their some reason why I wouldn’t want to do that.

Any opinions would be appreciated.
I see that you are from the Dansih city of Califonia, I'a a Dane and visited you little town when I visited the West Caost some years ago.
As several has poited out, the valve train of your Alfa is purely mecanical and will always make some noise, cold or warm. Check you valve clearange, many ajust to 4,25 mm inlet and 4.75 mm outlet to keep tapping low.
You don't know the time since a rebuild (if ever), so check the cam lopes and follewers surfaces as well, change if scorned.
Use a good and recomended (by specialist) multigrade mineral oil, like Castrol GTX 20W-50, will do the engine good and no harm. Besides, your engine's seals and gaskets will not leak oil to a varst amount. If it does, change the leaking seal or gasket.
I'm not a beliver in oil additives that you have to add to the sump.
Erik
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Old 08-05-2008, 05:09 PM
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however racing oil contains little or no detergents and are designed to be changed <500 miles).
Dan
I use Valvoline racing oil for my track/street Spider and there is nothing on the bottle that say’s to change the oil at sooner intervals. All that is said on the bottle is it may cause damage to the catalectic converter should not be used on the street.

I took the no street use was do to the higher zinc content which most likely has to do with the EPA laws?
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Old 08-05-2008, 11:25 PM
Dan in WA Dan in WA is offline
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BradH,
Please don’t take this as an endorsement. I bought ZDDPlus because it has ZDDP to replace reduced amounts in current oil, and it is only four ounces. This means you may add it to the oil instead of substituting additive for part of the oil as is necessary on larger size additives, such as EOS (16 ounces). With some Google research, you will discover how evil most oil additives are (Tifosi said it best) and how diverse opinions can be regarding anything to do with oil. I have the opposing hopes that four ounces isn’t enough to screw up anything, while also hoping it will help.
Good luck,
Dan
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Old 08-06-2008, 08:22 AM
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Thanks again for all the responses, I am off to do a little research on additives….

Erik,

Yes I am from Solvang and have many Danish friends. I am not a Dane but have been told that I am an honorary Dane, Something about the amount of Aquavit that I drank one night, and singing some drinking song that I only know the words to when drinking Aquavit. Greetings from on Honorary Dane…..
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Old 08-06-2008, 08:33 AM
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Hi Red Spider. Thanks for the greeting, I'm duly honorred.
Yes, Aquavit/Snaps drinking is the ultimate test of being a real Dane by hard.
Be sure, the drinking songs, my fellow country men made you sing, were rearly dirty.
Was it Rød Ålborg at test, or one of the women Snaps'?
Good luck with the research (in additives, that is).
Erik
PS! My '70 Spider is Farina Red, like yours seem to bee.
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Old 08-06-2008, 01:34 PM
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Hey there. I'll object a little. Aquavit is most certainly a Norsk thing too (Linie).

Partaking in Aquavit comsumption is how many deals were made back in Norway.

To keep my reply on subj, I'm running Amsoil 20W50 racing oil in our Graduate.

I've been away for a while. My likes the new look of the forum. Nice work!
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Old 08-22-2008, 04:50 PM
WJS10 WJS10 is offline
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I've got an 82 Spider and the owner's Manual specifies 10W50, not 20W50. Not finding 10W50 anywhere, I asked at a couple of auto parts stores and was advised to match the 10 weight that the oil will be when warm. So, how is it that everyone uses 20W50 and what will be the effect of my using 10W40?
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 08-22-2008, 05:22 PM
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Ummm...... that 10W is the cold viscosity, as in not what it'll be when it gets warm.

You need to find some brighter parts counter persons for advise.
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Old 08-22-2008, 06:15 PM
WJS10 WJS10 is offline
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Yupp, or read more on my own. Crap!
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2008, 08:34 AM
Joe Papa Sr Joe Papa Sr is offline
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Originally Posted by autoxsteve View Post
Hey there. I'll object a little. Aquavit is most certainly a Norsk thing too (Linie).

Partaking in Aquavit comsumption is how many deals were made back in Norway.

To keep my reply on subj, I'm running Amsoil 20W50 racing oil in our Graduate.

I've been away for a while. My likes the new look of the forum. Nice work!
And you better not get caught drinking Aquavit (water of life), while driving in Norway, as fines are stiff!! LOL!!
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