07-27-2008, 07:06 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 43
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Heater not working
Hi All
85 spider the fan switch lights up on the dash but the fan does not work.Checked the fuse and seems ok. Any ideas???
thanks
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07-27-2008, 07:11 PM
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Slacker
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Northern NY, USA
Posts: 6,475
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Stuck/frozen/corroded fan.
Pretty common actually.
You'll want to be checking the switch and all connections 1st to confirm everything is OK fromt that angle, then set your heater controls to 'floor', then with the fan off, reach in through the duct and see if you can spin the fan w/your fingers. (it's a horizontally mounted squirrel fan)
If you can get it to move that way, see if you can get it to spin freely a bit.
Should that fail, (and mabe even if it doesn't), turn the key on and the fan switch on high and flick at the fan with a pencil (I use my finger, but some girlyment around here believe that's dangerous, so I'll go thier route  ) and if you're lucky, it'll pick up and run.
If not, then you'll want to be checking the switch and all connections again before getting panicy about mabe tearing down the heater box to replace the fan. |
07-27-2008, 07:16 PM
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Senior Member
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Location: Mebane, NC
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The blower motor sits way down in the bottom of the heater unit. Any water 9or coolant) that gets in there does the motor no good and they can sieze up.
Try testing the electrical terminals at the left side of the heater to see if they are getting 12V (key is on & the switch on). There are two wires - one for slow speed, the other for fast speed. You should get 12V between either one and ground (depending on which position the switch is in).
If you are getting power to the terminals then next try reaching in the footwell air output door and see if the fan blades will spin. If you are lucky giving them a push may be enough. If so, remember to run the fan once a week or so to keep it from getting stuck again.
If the fan's motor is stuck well & good then removal of the heater unit is needed to access the motor for repair/replacement. Although I've read that someone was able to extract just the bottom portion leaving the rest in place I don't see how that is possible.
Last edited by ghnl; 07-27-2008 at 07:17 PM.
Reason: How Tifosi types so fast without all his fingers beats me.
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07-27-2008, 08:06 PM
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Registered User
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what side is the fan on so i can spin it.I have looked but did not see it.Any pic of it would be great.
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07-27-2008, 08:09 PM
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Slacker
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Northern NY, USA
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It's relatively equadistant from the openings in both floor vents.
Get in the side you're more comfortable with.
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07-27-2008, 08:17 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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Misc pics from misc threads:
This one shows a heaterbox kinda laying on its back looking at the side. The white bit in the hole to the 'right' is the fan.
This one is from ghnl and shows the bottom half of the heaterbox after removal of the upper casing. View is looking down on fan. (motor is underneath, rectangular bits on each side are the duct flaps)
Another from ghnl looking from the front showing the fan and the linkage that ties to two duct doors together to give you an idea of haw far in it is at each end.
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07-27-2008, 08:24 PM
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Registered User
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Thanks I"M going to give it a try tomorrow.Will keep posted
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07-27-2008, 09:46 PM
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Certified Oldschooler
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston & Spicewood, Texas; CA before that
Posts: 907
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After R&R and restoing my heater (separate post), I drilled a 3/8" hole in the bottom of that nice water and debris collection chamber. Wish there was room underneath to run a telltale lined out.
__________________
Anfanuts; Ph.A., B.S.A.
Now - '69 1750 Spider Veloce ( pictures)( and more) 10562.1480323 (since '75 for that early mid-life crisis!);
- '88 Bayliner, 305 CI Cvy (for those really hot days!)
Gone - '69 1750 Berlina (wish I still had)
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07-31-2008, 07:37 PM
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Registered User
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Thanks for the pics.Did you have to remove the dash.or just the bottom of the box?
AL
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07-31-2008, 08:06 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Mebane, NC
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I removed the dash. It is not as hard as it may sound. In fact, I think I spent more time getting the center console out then removing the dash. The various electrical connectors are differing shapes, sizes & colors so re-assembly becomes a matter of plugging the large white connector back into the large white connector, etc. Alfa even used a couple of wing nuts to attach the dash from underneath so they must have expected it to come out from time to time!
While you have the dash out, use that opportunity to also clean & secure any ground wires (black wires). I added an extra ground wire from the underside of the dash core (its metal underpinning) to a good ground on the body work. That way things attached to the dash don't depend on the dash attachment bolts to get to ground.
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08-09-2008, 08:50 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Camp Hill, PA
Posts: 111
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 Quote:
Originally Posted by Tifosi
Stuck/frozen/corroded fan.
Pretty common actually.
You'll want to be checking the switch and all connections 1st to confirm everything is OK fromt that angle, then set your heater controls to 'floor', then with the fan off, reach in through the duct and see if you can spin the fan w/your fingers. (it's a horizontally mounted squirrel fan)
If you can get it to move that way, see if you can get it to spin freely a bit.
Should that fail, (and mabe even if it doesn't), turn the key on and the fan switch on high and flick at the fan with a pencil (I use my finger, but some girlyment around here believe that's dangerous, so I'll go thier route ) and if you're lucky, it'll pick up and run.
If not, then you'll want to be checking the switch and all connections again before getting panicy about mabe tearing down the heater box to replace the fan. |
I got my blower working this evening by using a screwdriver to get the blades moving and lo and behold it works. I then learned how industrious the formers occupants were when I saw all the insulation and other nest material blow out.
And I had fun cleaning out the defroster vents. But in all seriousness, be careful sticking your hands into the holes because the plastic rim is sharp and hydrogen peroxide makes the cuts burn. With the rest of the nesting material out, the defroster vents works as well.
****There is a question after all; what is the consensus on cleaning the vents: Lysol through the cowl intake?
Thanks,
Joe
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1990 AR Spider Graduate
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08-10-2008, 06:21 AM
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If you need/want to clean out the ducts I'd suggest removing the flexible sections and washing them in the sink. Don't pour anything inside - it will all find its way to the bottom of the heating unit where the fan motor sits. That won't be good for the motor...
If there are remnants of rodent's nesting material you could try a shop vac to suck out what you can - top & bottom. For a more thorough clean of the heating unit itself it'd need to come out & apart. I suppose you could first try spraying some Lysol or Febreeze areosol in via the cowl vent while the fan is running. But don't dump liquid stuff in there.
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08-10-2008, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghnl
If you need/want to clean out the ducts I'd suggest removing the flexible sections and washing them in the sink. Don't pour anything inside - it will all find its way to the bottom of the heating unit where the fan motor sits. That won't be good for the motor...
If there are remnants of rodent's nesting material you could try a shop vac to suck out what you can - top & bottom. For a more thorough clean of the heating unit itself it'd need to come out & apart. I suppose you could first try spraying some Lysol or Febreeze areosol in via the cowl vent while the fan is running. But don't dump liquid stuff in there.
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Does removing the flexible ducts first require removal of the dash? If so, that will have to wait until I get the complete manual on CD.
Thanks,
Joe
__________________
1990 AR Spider Graduate
Last edited by jetta06hbg; 08-10-2008 at 07:03 AM.
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08-10-2008, 08:02 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Mebane, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetta06hbg
Does removing the flexible ducts first require removal of the dash?
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Does your car have A/C? The A/C unit is completely seperate from the heating unit. They are not integrated into one like most cars. The A/C ducts are similar and could be removed & washed if needed. I'm not sure about the rest of the A/C unit.
Last edited by ghnl; 08-10-2008 at 08:04 AM.
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08-10-2008, 08:55 AM
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Certified Oldschooler
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston & Spicewood, Texas; CA before that
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My 4 demister tubes, the black/gray ribbed "paper" ones, were actually glued to the dash connections with a light but effective coating of glue. I replaced them recently as part of a heater R&R and resto (detailed threads on heater resto exist). It requred scraping the paper and glue off of the 4 metal nozzles. They just slipped over the 4 plastic connections on the heater. A 69 may be different from yours, just beware that they may not just slip off under the dash. Mine definitely did not. If yours are the compressed paper variety, I'd not wet them in any way, they will just go limp (they do with age anyway). Centerline sells new demister tubing as I'm sure other vendors do. I have a heagter resto checklist if you need it. Just e-mail me. Regards, Bruce
__________________
Anfanuts; Ph.A., B.S.A.
Now - '69 1750 Spider Veloce ( pictures)( and more) 10562.1480323 (since '75 for that early mid-life crisis!);
- '88 Bayliner, 305 CI Cvy (for those really hot days!)
Gone - '69 1750 Berlina (wish I still had)
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'84 manufacture ~ '85 MY Spider Graduate 
