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07-25-2008, 05:09 PM
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Does anyone know how to install an oil pump on a 1983 Spider??
I have a manual that details replacing and alignment of the distributor, but it mentions nothing about replacing and alignment of the oil pump. Can anyone help with this, or tell me where to go for that information?
Thanks!
Dan
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07-25-2008, 06:37 PM
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I've done it by setting the engine at TDC (both valves closed in cylinder #1), and just trial and error to get the pump orientation correct. Shouldn't take more than a few tries.
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07-25-2008, 06:44 PM
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Location: Mebane, NC
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Does this help? From the Alfa Engine Ovehaul Manual.
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07-30-2008, 09:50 AM
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Today's the day...
Thanks for the tips. I am climbing under it today, and will see how it goes. I think I will pull the distributor and set the engine at top dead center. Then I will install the oil pump so the distributor can be reinstalled with rotor properly aligned. Will let you know how it goes.
Dan
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07-30-2008, 10:05 AM
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Note that each piston goes to TDC twice per cycle. You want #1 at TDC on it's compression stroke - the cam lobes should be pointing away from each other.
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07-30-2008, 10:07 AM
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As you insert the pump the shaft is going to turn about 30 deg or so due to the angle of the gear teeth so it's a matter of trial and error. Just set the shaft 30 deg off of what you want and it should line up. If not then move it a tooth one way or the other until it does. One caution is that the distributor cog is just barely off center so it's possible for you to mistakenly get it lined up 180 deg out - ask me how I know  If you discover this after the engine is all back together the solution is to re-time the cams 180 out and you'll be good to go. But you're not gonna let that happen 'cause I just warned you... 
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07-30-2008, 11:59 AM
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oil pump install
I did notice the cog is slightly off center, and figured it will only install correctly one way... If it can be installed 180 degrees off, how do you know which way is the correct one?
Dan
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07-30-2008, 12:02 PM
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offset cog
By that I mean, I know the oil pump can be installed 180 degrees off, but can the distributor be installed correctly when the pump is off 180? I was figuring it would only go in when the oil pump was correctly installed.
Dan
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07-30-2008, 01:34 PM
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The distributor's drive cog should only allow the unit to fully seat one way. But the warning is that the offset is so slight that you need to look carefully to be sure you have the oil pump installed the way you want it - and not 180 degrees off.
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07-30-2008, 03:50 PM
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in the Library
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Join Date: Jul 2008
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An Alfa Romeo Training School Technical Data manual says to install the oil pump, with the engine at #1 cylinder TDC, such that the heavy end of the distributor drive faces outward and is parallel with the engine block.
This means that the thick side of the drive offset is toward the fender and the thin side toward the block.
__________________
Jim 'papajam' Neill
AROC-USA Technical Library
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07-31-2008, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan T
I did notice the cog is slightly off center, and figured it will only install correctly one way... If it can be installed 180 degrees off, how do you know which way is the correct one?
Dan
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Along with what was said above you'll know because when you insert the distributor and seat it the rotor will be pointing aft instead of forward. But with all the info you've been given here there's no way that's gonna happen to you!
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08-01-2008, 07:38 AM
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replacing oil pump
Thanks everyone for your help! I reinstalled the oil pump, and the Alfa is up and running!!! I do have a couple of questions...
First, for some reason, the radiator fan is hitting the bottom of the plastic shroud. It wasn't doing this last year when I started the car after working on it all summer (the car wasn't running when I bought it). I finally got it started (that is another story) and I took it for a test drive..... I ran over an exposed manhole cover (the city was repaving, and had ran a profiler up to the manhole cover which exposed about 4 or 5 inches of it on one side) and tore the upper and lower oil pan off the block...
This years project was to replace upper and lower oil pan...
I did loosen the motor mounts to give me room to replace the upper oil pan, but don't think this could have caused the problem... I thought I may have pushed up the rad support when I ran over the manhole, but upon examination I don't see any damage. The only other thing I can think of that would cause this are that the motor mounts have shrunk. The motor mounts look to be ok, not broken anyway. Anyone run into this problem? I had to wire the shroud lower to get it out of the way, a poor fix, but couldn't see any other solution.
Also, when I installed the oil pump I couldn't get the rotor to line up exactly with the mark on the edge of the distributor. It's about a 1/4" off. The engine starts and runs ok, but I checked the timing with a light and the "F" mark on the pulley is about 3/8" off. My book says you shouldn't advance the timing or "serious consequences" could happen, but it looks like someone has done it anyway. I live in Denver, at 5280 ft above sea level, and cars run better up here if timing is advanced. I am wondering if that is why it was done, and if I should leave it or correct the situation.
I tried to reset the distributor so the rotor would align properly, but it doesn't rotate. It looks like in order to do that you need to pull the distributor. That will give access to the nut that holds the distributor in position on the bracket. Is this correct?
I am wanting to take the car in for an emissions test next week and if timing is off it may fail. Any advice is appreciated!
Thanks again for all of the help, this has been a 2 year project and I am excited I am getting close to finally driving the car!
Best,
Dan
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08-01-2008, 08:01 AM
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The most likely explanation for the fan hitting the shroud is failed motor mounts. You should plan on fixing that before driving it. The fan can be destroyed by such impact. Fan blades can go flying, destroying the shroud, radiator, and even denting the hood from the inside. (don't shoot the messenger)
For sure you should be able to rotate the distributor to line up the rotor with the mark on the housing. IIRC, the original clamping bolt is a 'tamper-proof' bolt. A hex head snaps off when tightened leaving what looks like the head of a carriage bolt. Cut a slot into it to unscrew it - replace it with a regular hex head bolt.
The actual timing is controlled by the computer - based on input it gets from the flywheel sensors. The rotor just switches the coil output to the appropriate spark plug. Turning the distributor does NOT "adjust" the timing.
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08-03-2008, 08:32 AM
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Oil pump install
Hi Eric,
Thanks for your help! I will order new motor mounts, wish I would have replaced them when I installed the upper oil pan...
Will readjusting the distributor change the way the engine runs? You say it doesn't affect the timing, and as long as it runs, does it matter if the rotor doesn't align exactly with the mark on the housing?
Dan
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08-03-2008, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan T
...does it matter if the rotor doesn't align exactly with the mark on the housing?
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Probably not. The computer decides when to fire the spark plugs - the distributor merely, umm, distributes the coil output to the proper cylinder. As long as the rotor is pointing in the general direction of the right part of the distributor cap it'll run fine. There are two styles of rotors that'll fit. One type has a much wider blade at the end - presumably to allow the spark to get out of the distributor even when the computer advances the timing to its maximum.
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