Opinions wanted on new slave cylinders - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Opinions wanted on new slave cylinders

Hi all,

It looks like my S4 is going to need a new clutch slave cylinder fairly soon. In looking around at different options I see theses:

Centric has pn 138.02001 from China

Beck Arnley 072-8314 from Germany

Centerline Cc180 from Italy

I believe the oem was ATE but I don't see any of those around.

Does anyone have any thoughts or experience with these? My inclination is to go with Centerline...

Thanks for any feedback!
Robert

91 Spider
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 11:27 AM
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the ATE pn was 03.2525-1802.3
if it helps.

you can find ATE in europe, but expensive at about 130 $

there were 3 different makes for the S4 spider listed in parts book:
ATE (AR pn # 60516270)
Benditalia (# 60516271)
Brembo (# 60516272)

If I were buying, I'd
a) try to get the original and if that proves too difficult
then b) buy from a reputable alfa supplier.

Dom - Alfa Spider 1990 S4 - formerly: Alfa 101 Sprint, 2600 Sprint, Montreal - family classics: Jensen Interceptor II, '58 Hooper RR Silver Cloud I, Shadow II, '60 Corvette.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, so I think I answered my own question. The Centerline appears to be made from aluminum, which I would think an advantage in that it would eliminate dissimilar materials from corroding, which going through the threads here seems to be a common problem when it comes time to remove the steel slave cylinder from the alloy mount.

It's also the least expensive, and supports Centerline who has been good to me in the past.

So I ordered it...

Robert

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Pic of Centerline part

Here's a pic of the Centerline part. Looks like alloy to me...
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 01:31 PM
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May the Snap Ring gods smile upon you!
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 04:16 PM
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Put a SpeedBleeder <http://speedbleeder.com> in that thing, and stop worrying about bleeding it.

Call them at:888 879 7016 ( i can't remember what the part # is )
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 04:36 PM
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Spruell has a no-name cylinder for $38. Historically he has sold decent quality parts.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 09:09 AM
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If you clean out the hole for the slave cylinder, use steel wool or a small wire brush, then coat the surface with anti-seize or lithium grease, it will come out easier next time. Also, put a dab of chassis grease into the socket on the clutch pivot arm, where the pushrod fits.

And do take the man's advice on the Speed Bleeder!
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robertinwc View Post
Here's a pic of the Centerline part. Looks like alloy to me...
I'm skeptical that the cylinder is made from aluminum alloy, though I certainly could be wrong. Please report back when you receive it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by alfaloco
clean out the hole for the slave cylinder .... then coat the surface with anti-seize
Sounds like good advice.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 10:55 AM
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I've been fairly successful at lightly honing these cylinders and re-sealing them using ATE or Akron seal kits. I think I've only bought one new, and that was when the pitting in the bore was really bad. I use brake fluid as a honing lube, and run the hone at medium drill speed, through the bore until it just cleaned up-- no more than that. Then wash it out with dish soap and water, blowing it dry with compressed air, and then applying a thin coat of brake fluid to the bore on assembly.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfaloco View Post
I've been fairly successful at lightly honing these cylinders and re-sealing them using ATE or Akron seal kits. I think I've only bought one new, and that was when the pitting in the bore was really bad. I use brake fluid as a honing lube, and run the hone at medium drill speed, through the bore until it just cleaned up-- no more than that. Then wash it out with dish soap and water, blowing it dry with compressed air, and then applying a thin coat of brake fluid to the bore on assembly.
Yep, just chuck a seal kit in it. 1 hour job at most ... last for another 30 years.

Pete

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=Alfajay;7596938]I'm skeptical that the cylinder is made from aluminum alloy, though I certainly could be wrong. Please report back when you receive it.


hi everyone,

Just to report back, I got the new slave from centerline and it is NOT alloy. Seemed like decent quality and it's now functioning fine...

I did find that the existing cylinder only had one circlip though. It seems like that would not be an issue since the cylinder itself is captured between the pedal and the one circlip, so it can't really go anywhere.

Thoughts ?

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 12:33 PM
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Yes, having just one circlip should not be an issue since the cylinder itself is captured between the pedal and the one circlip, so it can't really go anywhere.

But the factory did install a clip at both ends - the only issue with one clip that I could imagine would be if the cylinder shifted rearward a bit between clutch actuations, and then impacted the hoop in the bellhousing when you stepped on the clutch pedal. After a while, that hammering might damage the circlip or the groove it rides in. But I'm really speculating here.

Still, if you want a belt-and-suspenders installation, you could put an hose clamp around the front of the slave cylinder to prevent it from shifting rearward. Or find another circlip. But this is probably unnecessary.

Jay Mackro
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'65 Guilia Sprint GT
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 03:08 PM
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Speed Blleder follow up...

I used speed bleeder part number #SB6100 on my S2's cylinder. Makes bleeding soooooooooo easy!

Ted

76 Spider, $4500.00 original cost - five bagillion invested.
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