I need help removing the steering wheel

[alfa63]

I want to clean up the steering wheel along with troubleshoot an electrical problem with the light switch. How can I remove the steering wheel without damaging the horn button or cracking the outer plastic piece any further (see picture)? What do I need to pry, turn, twist, or smash with a hammer to remove the steering wheel?

Other facts I know: the horn button can be pushed in and twisted both clockwise and counter-clockwise. This is no help in solving the problem. The outer cracked piece does not twist either clockwise or counter-clockwise and grunting really loud doesn't help either.

Any suggestions?

[AlfistiSA]

Ah.........I see your problem - you need to sell that Giulia to me quickly...

The black ring surrounding the centre button needs to come out, it fits in rather tightly by means of a large rubber "O" ring around its circumference. most of the early cars are like this.

The Factory Tool is a large curved flat steel "putty" knife, which has a handle & a steel blade - the blade is curved & fits just under the lip of the ring & you pry the ring up.

Whatever you do, DO NOT use a screwdriver, you WILL make marks on the edge of the plastic ring. I've used 2 putty knives to get the rings off on my Giulietta's, which have the same system.

The horn button has a large brass spring under it, hence you can push it in & turn it around.

When in doubt, work very slowly, time is cheap compared to damaged parts.

Good Luck
Greig
Still jealous of that Giulia

[fredwidmer]

Steven, This is somewhat pedantic, but:

On my '72 Berlina the plastic ring is held on by three rectangular tabs projecting down through rectangular holes in the steering wheel hub. They are underneath, placed somewhat in from the circumference of the ring, at 12, 4 and 8 o'clock. Each tab has a rounded barb, or bulge, on its end. I pry my ring up with my fingers but a thin, flexible-style putty knife inserted between the ring and the hub would be better. The bulges face the center so don't push on the tabs with the end of the tool in an effort to unlock them. A sheet of the thin, stiff, clear plastic used for packaging tools nowadays will protect surfaces from marring.

My horn switch is not stock for a '72, it's in the center of the ring.

The horn switch comes off with the ring (on mine). There is a split rubber grommet that the horn wire passes through on its way to the hole through the steering post. About 3 or 4 inches inside the column the wire has a thin, straight splice connector. Disconnect the battery. The wire is live so if a bare part touches the column the horn will sound until you get the battery disconnected! While inside the engine compartment, ease the lower end of the wire where it comes out of the steering box. Back at the top of the column, pull the wire out to expose the junction and disconnect it. Slip the end of the wire back just into the hole. You will need to apply tools to the end of the post and it will be in the way. It can be pushed back out from the bottom.

With the horn switch and ring removed, you will see a nut threaded onto the steering post. There is a washer under it with wings which are bent up along the flats of the nut. Push the wings away from the nut only enough to get the appropriate socket wrench well enough onto the nut and undo the nut. Bending the tabs more than a couple times will break them off.

Use a steering wheel puller to pull the wheel hub off the post. Using a gear puller with the arms pulling at the outer edge of the hub is almost certanly going to bend the hub, since it should be quite tightly pushed on. The end of the post and the bore in the hub have a taper fit (again, this is a '72), like a tie rod end, with the addition of a single spline (key) to align the wheel properly and prevent it from twisting about the post if it isn't put on tightly. Keyed shafts are often sticky wickets to reassemble because the key is usually a force fit in its keyways (grooves). It has to be tight but I put a little assembly lube on the key or in the groove when putting keyed shafts back into bores. I also use a triangular machinist's scraper to remove burrs and ridges thrown up on the shaft and in the bore, especially along the edges of the keyways.

Whew. Is this any help?

[AlfistiSA]

Fred - brilliant description !!

Steven if you follow these guidelines, you will be able to get the wheel off your car without any damage & limited swearing.

Oh, yes, & you'll be able to put it back on again - which is quite useful

Cheers
Greig

[Andrew]

The horn ring on a Giulia steering wheel is not held in by a rubber O ring or by the three tangs as on Berlinas, GTVs, and late Spiders. Pry up gently on the outer plastic ring, preferable with a plastic or wood lever or some kind, or a small screwdriver with a rag to protect the aluminum and plastic. Work your way around a bit, and eventually the giant wire spring clip will release the outer and inner horn button piece, which will fly up at you, forced by the other horn return spring. Get all that out of the way, unhook the battery, unscrew the horn wire and get its rubber guide out of the way, unlock the lock tab, get a 27 mm wrench and a 1/2" ratchet, undo the nut, then use a good stud-type puller (8 mm bolts) to pop the wheel off. You can beat on the puller, but don't beat on the wheel, except maybe with a rubber mallet. These wheels are generally stiffer than the dished 115 steel wheels, and release better from the taper, in my experience. Don't lose the Woodruff key. And use anti-seize and reasonable torque values when putting it back together.
Andrew Watry

[AlfistiSA]

Oops, yes - Andrew is right, the later cars had a wire spring clip instead of the rubber "O" ring - sorry, I've been working on Giulietta's lately.

Apologies
Greig

[alfa63]

Sorry for the late reply... thanks for the suggestions. When time is available to do this job I'll do Andrew's suggestion.

Thanks again.