1967 Giulia Super Restoration Questions

[Chi Si Dici]

Hello everyone, I'm currently in the middle of my Super restoration. I'm including a few pics the car prior to stripping and updates on my engine rebuild. Please note the front grill and tell me if it's from an earlier TI. I own many books, but most do not clearly show thw appropriate front grill. Some show a two-piece main w/ three horizontal bars. Earlier cars show full horizontals with one piece grill. I'm also interested in the correct emblem placed at the bottom of the C-Pillar. I have seen the snake w/ crown, does anyone have pictures of correct piece? I have other pics posted under, PICTURES: (thread) Ciao a tutti, presento le mie macchine.

[Chi Si Dici]

I'm restoring the original 1600 engine. Mods include porting, polishing, 11 mil cam and large valves on the intake, stardard valves and 10 mil euro cam on the exhaust side.

[Alex]

Looks like a great rebuild. When you talk about 11mm/10mm cams on intake and exhaust respectively, which part numbers are they? I'm thinking that the former is something like C&B, the latter a factory cam? And although it's a small point, I've never seen an early cam cover (without breather) which has the two little lugs for the front bolts (at least, it looks like an early cover - it does have the dip in it, right?). Don't forget that you need to use two alloy washers for the two rear cam cover bolts in place of the fiber items which are correct for the other four bolts. It also looks like Alfa had stopped using intake manifolds with the screw-in thermostat by the time your car was made.

Great work!

Alex.

[101/105guy]

If it's an early car, that cam cover might be right. Notice the breather on the rear of the block?
Intake manifold and alternator are definitly from a later model thou.........
I wouldn't do too much to the body, it looks great as is!!

[Chi Si Dici]

Hi Alex, the 11 mil cam was purchased thru Centerline, the 10 mil cam came out of a '74 European Giulia (possibly also an aftermarket veloce cam). I found that Eoropean cams for Veloces measured between 9.5 / 10. My set measured 10. I have used the hot 11 mil cams on my 1750 GTV without idling problems. Since the block needed to be shaved for proper leveling, the people at Apex (machine shop) said that the 11 mil would work ok.

In regards to keeping paint as is (101/105guy), please look at my update pictures on the PICTURES thread called (Ciao a Tutti, Presento Le Mie Macchine). Cameras have a wonderfull way of hiding the devils.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge guys.

[velocedoc]

You have the correct grille for a 67 Super if it is a 2 peice. There is two part arrangement for a 2nd series Super, the long lower part and a short part with the Alfa badge on the hood. Have you been following the thread that Andrew put up about making new hearts for the center? Eventually your heart will begin to crack at the bottom from stress and fall off.

I would like to know how you timed out the two cams and the reason for using the 11/10 mm lift combination instead of using a single cam combo.

My Super will be begin restoration soon and I will be following in your same footsteps.

[Chi Si Dici]

Saluti "velocedoc",
I do not have a two piece grill, my is a single piece. I have an individual that will swap me the "heart" portion, I trying to see if earlier Supers (maybe the European versions) kept the single unit like the earlier TI's.

In regards to my combo cams. I wanted to increase the horsepower of the modest 1600 engine without loosing the little low end power it already has a hard time producing. The 11 mil cam on the intake is where it is needed to make that extra 5/10 hp gains at higher rpm's, the European 10 mil cam in noted to keep that original grunt at the low end. I was told that putting a high lift cam like the (11 mil) on the exhaust side would do little to the overall performance, but it would definitely have you loose torque at lower rpm's, especially for street use.

The first I heard about using this combo cam was from the people of Centerline, they are located in the Colorado areas, where the air is extremely fine and leaving very little power of small capacity engines.

I'm really not the person to clarify this theory, I'm sure there are many people on the BB that can explain better. I hope that someone does.

[Alex]

I look forward to hearing people chime in with why this asymmetric cam lift set-up works to improve low-end torque (maybe a new thread?). My 1750 engine will be getting 10.9 C&B cams that are rated as 8L in the old Shankle catalogue, i.e. they produce good low-end power/torque too, but I'd like to know how to work on that for a street application. I've also heard that 16/18 inlet and 20/22 exhaust is a good starting point.

Re the cam cover, I've only ever seen the early 'dipped' cover with front lugs when it also has the breather outlet to feed back into the plenum. I was planning to find another early cover and carefully cut and weld in two new pieces of alloy to accomplish this (to preserve the integrity of my original 1600 engine), so now it looks as though this was done at the factory anyway. My guess is that it must be pretty rare, though.

Alex.

[101/105guy]

Your's is definitly an interresting variation. Usually the transition from old to new style is to have a breather tube and no hold downs on the front of the cover. Below is a pic of a very early 105 with that set up.

[Andrew]

If you're using an aftermarket air cleaner setup you don't need the dipped cam cover for snorkel clearance.

Is the block in the AR00526*xxxx* series? That's what a normal US Super would have come with. Early ones might have had the "road tube" type breather at the rear of the block rather than on the cam cover. What's the chassis number of the car?

It's a TI grille. The white car above has the normal Super two-piece grille that splits at the hood opening. The underlying full-width base piece is the same; only the center shell pieces are different.

Andrew

[Bill S]

Nice looking car and engine! Since you've already got the dipped cam cover, if you decide to go with the original air plenum and cannister I've got a setup I'd sell for $100. Missing the rubber air hose and fenderwell clamp. They also come up on ebay pretty regularly so you might find one even cheaper.

Bill Sinclair

[Chi Si Dici]

Thanks "Bill S", I may go that route. $100. sounds resonable.

"Andrew", I photographed the block (see more pics under PICTURES) and it reads (AR00536 * 11990). I checked in my Alfa Bible and the 536 #'s are from the first year 1600 Boattails. It may be possible that the block is not original?

[Andrew]

I'm not sure where you mean about the pictures; can you add a link?

An 00536 block would be from a Giulia Sprint GT or a Duetto, as you say, of the same era. I would say definitely it is not the original block. And I would guess with the block crankcase vent it is probably earlier than the chassis.

What's the car's chassis number?

Andrew

[Chi Si Dici]

"Andrew", I checked the firewall of the Super and the # is: AR328850. In regards to other pics I had, they're on the BB.

PICTURES: "Ciao a Tutti, Presento Le Mie Macchine", this is were I'll be posting picture updates.

[sprintgtc]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chi Si Dici "Andrew", I checked the firewall of the Super and the # is: AR328850. In regards to other pics I had, they're on the BB. PICTURES: "Ciao a Tutti, Presento Le Mie Macchine", this is were I'll be posting picture updates.